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Head stud sealant?


rusty ol ranger

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I had a couple head studs come out on my 2n tractor when i pulled the head.

One of them goes in through a water jacket.

Whats the best/proper type sealant to use on this?
 


snoranger

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Mack recommends their elastic grey silicone for head or exhaust bolts that go into oil or coolant passages… but then again, I’ve never seen a Mack engine that didn’t have some kind of leak.
 

Uncle Gump

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The last time I needed it... was a small block Chevy head studs. I used this...

1723382288121.png
 

Curious Hound

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Mack recommends their elastic grey silicone for head or exhaust bolts that go into oil or coolant passages… but then again, I’ve never seen a Mack engine that didn’t have some kind of leak.
I've seen very few engines of any brand that didn't leak unless they were brand spanking new or a fresh, professionally done rebuild.
 

rusty ol ranger

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The last time I needed it... was a small block Chevy head studs. I used this...

View attachment 114894
I ran across that on google. Was leaning toward it as ARP is known for head studs and fastners.

I got 100 different answers on google from red loctite to rtv. So i asked guys i trust.

Ill order a tube of that.


I've seen very few engines of any brand that didn't leak unless they were brand spanking new or a fresh, professionally done rebuild.
The detroit reman in the pete i drive started leaking as soon as the warrenty was over. They timed that perfect.

The cummins i used to drive leaked like the exxon valdez. But it also had 1.3 million on it.
 

Curious Hound

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I ran across that on google. Was leaning toward it as ARP is known for head studs and fastners.

I got 100 different answers on google from red loctite to rtv. So i asked guys i trust.

Ill order a tube of that.



The detroit reman in the pete i drive started leaking as soon as the warrenty was over. They timed that perfect.

The cummins i used to drive leaked like the exxon valdez. But it also had 1.3 million on it.
After all these years, you trust us?
 

Uncle Gump

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That ARP stuff works...

I would also run a thread chaser down the holes and clean any remaining old sealer... blow a little brake clean through them too.

Should be squeaky clean before assembly begins.
 

rusty ol ranger

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That ARP stuff works...

I would also run a thread chaser down the holes and clean any remaining old sealer... blow a little brake clean through them too.

Should be squeaky clean before assembly begins.
Good advice.

After all these years, you trust us?
Strangely....yes.
 

19Walt93

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I use a Permatex thread sealer that's probably similar to the ARP stuff. I write the date on the tube when I open it and throw it away on it's first birthday as a precaution. I used some 2 year old sealer on the flywheel bolts on my Mustang when I put the first Dual Friction clutch in it and the clutch slipped the first time down the drag strip. When I took it apart I found oil oozing around all the flywheel bolts and lubing my new clutch. I cleaned the flywheel and pressure plate with brake clean and resealled the bolts with fresh sealant. I sent the disc back to Centerforce and they replaced the friction plates on it for about 1/2 the cost of a new one.
 

snoranger

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SenorNoob

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I've seen very few engines of any brand that didn't leak unless they were brand spanking new or a fresh, professionally done rebuild.
Guess I really am a profreshional then. MY engine doesn't leak.:blush:
 

rusty ol ranger

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A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...

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