Having brake issues and burning oil

[matt12305]

I finally got my 1988 ranger running, there are a couple problems I'm now having..

The most notable problem, the brakes are having issues..it's worth noting this truck hasn't been driven in probably over 10 years. Anyways, it feels like the brakes aren't disengaging completely, I can definitely feel it, to go up a hill, the pedal was to the floor only doing 2500RPMs going 14 MPH..Its not that steep of a hill even, also the brakes smoke a bit..I'm not sure if it's the rear drum brakes or the front disc brakes. Does anyone know what needs to be done to fix that?

Additionally it seems like it burns oil and smokes a lot, the exhaust is probably just cause it's old but is there any way to fix it from burning oil? I already adjusted the spark gap so that can't be it.


Thanks in advance for your help

 

[Bill]

Check for sticking calipers or wheel cylinders. The valve cover gaskets may be leaking oil, and the oil may be running onto the exhaust manifolds. If it has been sitting for ten years it's probably a good idea to check the brakes anyway. Rebuilt brake calipers probably cost around $20 each. Wheel cylinders are around $10 each. Or, you can buy rebuild kits for about $5.

 

[matt12305]

I don't know much about drum brakes, do you know how to check if the drum brakes are sticking?
Thanks

 

[Bill]

There are numerous resources on the internet that explain how to work on brakes, and just about everything else on your truck.

Brake Diagnosis & Repair Information

Brake Diagnosis and Repair Information for common brake problems

www.aa1car.com

Optional: Brake tools. You can do your brakes without out specialized tools. However, they make the job much easier.

It's also a good idea to buy a Chilton's or Haynes repair manual. They are about $30-something new, but you can probably find used ones on ebay or Amazon for less. Another option is to find out if your local library has a subscription to an online auto repair manual subscription, such as Chilton's library.

 

[RonD]

+1^^^ rebuild or replace calipers and slaves, they will have ridges inside causing them not to slide back/release fully, from sitting so long without and movement

Jack one wheel up and spin it
Pump the brake pedal a few times
Spin wheel again
You will know if its "dragging", if it was sticking it would be hard to even move the vehicle


Spark plug tips would be blackish color if engine was "burning oil"
If they look white or light brown then its not burning oil

If you smell oil or see "smoke" then 100% from valve cover gasket leaking onto exhaust manifold

When a vehicle sit unused for long periods the gaskets that usually have fluids to keep them moist, DRY OUT
So you WILL have leaks, on going issue, just change the seals/gaskets as they come up
Its the curse of the "low miler"

 

[Bill]

When a vehicle sit unused for long periods the gaskets that usually have fluids to keep them moist, DRY OUT
So you WILL have leaks, on going issue, just change the seals/gaskets as they come up
Its the curse of the "low miler"

I use aviation #3 gasket sealer to get around that problem. I've never had anything leak after using it. Not even cork gaskets.

 

[matt12305]

Thanks good info, I completely forgot to test the brakes the way you suggested..although I took off the rear brake drums and had someone push the brake pedal, only the front piston moved, the rear didn't budge. I did only check the rear right brake so I'll have to check the other ones another time..

Although there's another issue maybe you could help with? When I did try driving it, I noticed if I suddenly let off the throttle, the engine died.
I tested the idle air control valve by running the engine with it plugged in and then running it with it not plugged in and there was a noticable difference in the RPM's so that should be working.. do you think the brakes being stuck could have had something to do with the engine dieing when you suddenly let of the throttle? Or perhaps another cause?

I appreciate your help

 

[rumblecloud]

Hello Matt,
I am curious as to what you did to finally get it running?
As others have already mentioned, there are a lot of issues that will be encountered with a vehicle that's been sitting for a long time. And knowing what was done to get it running will help with the advice we can give. For example:
Did you use fresh fuel? How much of the old stuff did you remove? Sediment can form in a partially filled tank and clog filters.
Fuel filter change?
Radiator flush and fill?
Oil change?
Transmission fluid change?
Even the correct tire pressure will help.

All of the above should be done to help get it back on the road. Just take it slow and do a little at a time. You're sure to uncover other problems along the way, just don't get discouraged.

There are a lot of knowledgeable people here who are ready and willing to help.

As for your question about the brakes causing the engine to stall, that depends. If you're sitting still in neutral or park, then no, the brakes won't affect engine idle. If you're moving slowly and your brakes are really dragging it should not affect the engine idle, but could depending on how well your vehicle is running -- and we already know yours is not running well.

I'm betting if you take care of the issues mentioned above,, your Ranger will run A LOT better.

 

[matt12305]

Oh thanks a lot..
Yeah when I got it it wouldn't start, everything I did to it to get it running...
Oil change
Replace fuel tank
Replace fuel filter
Professional fuel injector cleaning
Cleaned the fuel line from fuel filter to fuel rail
Replaced high and low pressure fuel pumps

I have not changed transmission fluid, I was planning on just topping it off and driving it to a shop cause that's one job I don't wanna do.
I gotta top off the power steering fluid.

I just did some research last night..new brake calipers for the rear are 7 bucks a piece on rockauto.. so if I have it right..I disassemble the drum brake assembly, replace the caliper then re assemble, do the same to the other side and then bleed the brakes? I'll have to check the front calipers as well and may need to do the same to the front.

Additionally I may have to test the idle air control valve again to see if that's causing it to die when I let off the throttle, I didn't notice any vacuum leaks so I don't expect it to be that.

Thanks for your response

 

[Bill]

Thanks good info, I completely forgot to test the brakes the way you suggested..although I took off the rear brake drums and had someone push the brake pedal, only the front piston moved, the rear didn't budge. I did only check the rear right brake so I'll have to check the other ones another time..

That's not the correct way to diagnose a frozen piston. What you are seeing here is the fluid is taking the path of least resistance. If one piston moves enough to accomodate the fluid going into the cylinder there's no reason for the other to move. However, if you open the bleeder valve you should be to tell if both pistons are free. With all this said, if any moisture managed to get into brake fluid and wheel cylinders there is a chance the pistons are pitted and the bores in the wheel cylinders have some corrosion in them. For the cost replacing them with rebuild units from a parts store it's not even worth fooling around with the old wheel cylinders. It's one of the easiest repairs you can do on a vehicle. It may be a good idea to flush the system with clean brake fluid when you are done.

Although there's another issue maybe you could help with? When I did try driving it, I noticed if I suddenly let off the throttle, the engine died.
I tested the idle air control valve by running the engine with it plugged in and then running it with it not plugged in and there was a noticable difference in the RPM's so that should be working.. do you think the brakes being stuck could have had something to do with the engine dieing when you suddenly let of the throttle? Or perhaps another cause?

I appreciate your help

It could be a number of things related to the air/fuel mixture. A fair test for an IAC is to start the vehicle and see if the idle speed gradually steps down. That's a good indicator that is is working. However, it can still have a problem with sticking intermittently. Also check the EGR valve and check for vacuum leaks. I've read posts wherein people stated they resolved the problem after fixing something related to the evaporative emissions control, but I think those problem are more likely to cause difficulty starting the engine.