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2.5L ('98-'01) Hard starting


DCman

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So I posted before about my engine having problems and it turned out to be a bad MAF sensor, which I changed out and now am able to drive the truck again.
However, I noticed that it was very hard to start when I was diagnoising the problem.
Now, its easier to start, but I still have to crank it a lot.
It takes about 30 seconds or more of cranking to get it to start and when it does, it doesn't catch right away. It sputters a little and stops and I have to start it again.
I've learned to not let off the key until I get through the sputtering and that helps.
As I continue to use it, it seems to start easier and easier, but if I let it sit for a few days, it takes a while to start again.
While it does seem to be improving, it seems to be taking its sweet time "learning" how to start correctly again.
Is this normal or do I have another problem?
I fixed the MAF sensor a little more than a month ago.
 
Last edited:


MikeG

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That seems a tad excessive. If you turn the key on/off multiple times before cranking it, does that help? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? They aren't expensive. Once it is started, does it run normally and can you drive it?
 

DCman

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That seems a tad excessive.
Thank you. I thought so too.

MikeG said:
If you turn the key on/off multiple times before cranking it, does that help?
I don't know. I haven't tried it. I will do so tomorrow and report back.

MikeG said:
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?
No, but I see where you're going and I too suspect some kind of a leak that's draining the line pressure, as well.
FWIW, there are no wet spots on the floor.

MikeG said:
Once it is started, does it run normally and can you drive it?
Once I get it started it runs fine and drives like normal.

I should also add, once its started and I've driven it a short time, then shut it off, I can restart it again with hardly any issue.
So, like a trip to the store is no problem. It's just getting it started that first time of the day.
 

RonD

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Reads like you are losing fuel pressure when key is off

Fuel injection systems should hold about 60% of their normal pressure after key off, for MONTHS and MONTHS

Your system runs at 55psi, so after key off it should be at about 35psi and stay there

When you turn the key back on the fuel pump only runs for 2 SECONDS, that's it, that adds about 10psi
Its a safety thing, 0 RPMs = Fuel Pump OFF, in case of an accident
But computer does run it for 2 seconds on boot up
So the trick is to reboot the computer a few times, like 3 times, key on and key off, repeat

IF...........the problem is lost pressure it should start up faster after doing this

If it doesn't help then lost pressure is not your issue

Fuel pump comes on full time when RPMs are above 400
Cranking RPMs are 200
 

DCman

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Thank you RonD, your post is very much appreciated.
I will look into this tomorrow and let you guys know what happens.
 

tomw

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When EFI was new to Rangers, they came with a yellow tag on the ignition switch cautioning about running out of gas. It noted that if you ran out of fuel, you should cycle the ignition from OFF to ON, hold a few seconds, and repeat the OFF ON hold ten times. The label may be on the up side of the visor, but I'm too lazy to go out and check.
If doing the cycle a half dozen times helps the cold(overnight) start problem, then look for leakback to the tank or leakage into the intake manifold. The regulator can allow fuel to return to the tank, as can the check valve in the fuel pump and a leaking injector can drip fuel into the intake. Of course an external link should also be checked, firstly by floor indications but also by sniffing for fuel odor, especially if the other causes have been ruled out.
tom
 

DCman

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Sorry for the late update guys, kinda busy today.
Anyway, I tried switching the key on and off 3 times, leaving it on for 2 seconds each time.
I did this on 3 separate occasions through out the day and it just didn't seem to make any difference.
....guess that means its not a leak down/line pressure problem.
As I was working with the truck, though, I realize I left something out of my original post.
After the truck has started, I have to leave it run for a minute or more, before pulling it out of the garage.
If I try to do it right away, it stalls and I have to restart it (restarts just fine).
If it were a carbureted engine, it would be like the choke was misadjusted.
No backfire, but I really got to rev the engine, or pedal the gas to keep it alive.
After a minute or two, its fine.
Just on that initial startup.
Not entirely sure how to remedy that one and sorry I left that out before.
 

tomw

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I'd check 3 things. Coolant temperature sensor, ATC - air charge temperature sensor, and throttle body/plate cleanliness. The first two sensors give numbers to the computer that will be used to adjust the fuel:air mixture and idle setting for a cold engine. Just like the choke in a carb system. The last, throttle cleaning, can make a difference in the way the engine idles, comes to idle when slowing down, and responds to 'cold fast idle'. I can't say why, but all I have experience with have started and idled better after the throttle plate and inner surface of the throttle body were cleaned of the built-up deposits. You'd think with just plain air being sucked past the throttle the whole thing would remain clean, but it doesn't work that way. If you are adventuous, you can remove the throttle body completely and use 'cat safe' carb cleaner to wash down the inner surface of the upper intake. It likely will be coated with goo. PCV valve leavinge? Perhaps, I do not know, but cleaning it seems to make a difference in idle stability and cold start.
I have owned an EFI 2.3 for a long time, and for years I had to start, and then re-start several times when it was cold started. Cleaned as above, and it significantly improved. I also checked all the hoses and tubes connected to the intake in any way, making sure they were seated properly and snug on the fittings.
After spraying with cleaner, I let the chemicals leak down into the lower manifold and soak for a while. It smoked for a short while upon startup, but stopped. Improvement was definitely noticeable.
tom
 

DCman

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Ok, I'll check those out.
Thanks Tom! (y)
 

RonD

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A Bluetooth OBD2 reader is under $20 and works with any vehicle 1996 and newer, and a smart phone, APPs are free or $5

With one of these you can SEE what the computer sees from each sensor, in real time
i.e. air temp, coolant temp, MAF data, throttle sensor, ect........................

And works on any brand vehicle 1996 and newer, not just a Ford thing, a good tool to have in the box
Also reads and clears trouble codes, lol
 

DCman

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I have one Ron, that's how I figured out the bad MAF sensor I aluded to in my opener.
However, if the truck's not throwing a code, the reader is useless.
 

RonD

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Reader should be able to see temp for air and coolant, plus other sensor data
 

DCman

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Sorry for the late reply Ron.
No, it doesn't show any of those, but I think my prior reply may have mislead you a little.
You mentioned a BLUETOOTH OBD2 reader.
I have a reader for OBD2 but it isn't Bluetooth.
 

RonD

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Can it do "Live Data", i.e. with engine running can you select "Temp", for example, and see what the computer sees as the engine temperature coming from the ECT sensor?
 

DCman

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Sorry Ron, no can do.
If these terms ring familiar bells in the cobwebs of your memory, its not a "Tech1". It's more like a "Breakout Box".
Ignition on, but engine off.
 

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