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hard brakes and high idle


kylem203

New Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2011
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
ford
Transmission
Manual
was changing out the distributor cap and rotor button on my 87 ford ranger got distracted in the middle and forgot where the wires went so checked my manual and ended up hooking up the wires wrong big mistake the some beach back fired in the air intake blew off some vacuum lines unknow to me at the time it blew out the guts on the check valve for the power brake booster which is the black metal cylinder behind the master cylinder connected to the fire wall the brakes were really hard like they are when you you try pressing them without the engine running and the engine started idling up at 2000 rpms couldnt find the piece to put back over it so i improved covered it with a rigid piece of plastic and secured it with electrical tape. worked like a charm the engine idle went back to normal and the brakes started working again, who would have thought such a little piece would cause such a problem:shok:
 


AaronC

New Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2010
Messages
262
Reaction score
4
Points
0
Location
California
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0l
Transmission
Manual
was changing out the distributor cap and rotor button on my 87 ford ranger got distracted in the middle and forgot where the wires went so checked my manual and ended up hooking up the wires wrong big mistake the some beach back fired in the air intake blew off some vacuum lines unknow to me at the time it blew out the guts on the check valve for the power brake booster which is the black metal cylinder behind the master cylinder connected to the fire wall the brakes were really hard like they are when you you try pressing them without the engine running and the engine started idling up at 2000 rpms couldnt find the piece to put back over it so i improved covered it with a rigid piece of plastic and secured it with electrical tape. worked like a charm the engine idle went back to normal and the brakes started working again, who would have thought such a little piece would cause such a problem:shok:
Huh??

So you fixed your problem?

If the brake booster is bad you will have a vacuum leak. A huge one! The ECU doesn't read the extra air being pulled through the vacuum header on the intake manifold. Therefore you will get bank lean codes, the A/F ratio will be all out of wack and it will run like crap.
 

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