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Harbor Freight "Pickup Crane" hydraulic hoist


barrys

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Has anyone installed anything like this bed mounted crane/hoist in their Ranger:

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-capacity-pickup-truck-crane-60732.html

It seems it would definitely deform the bed if mounted with supplied hardware. I've read of multiple installations that use a thicker steel plate -- about 10 x 10 -- above and/or below the bed.

I have a few questions:
Has anyone thought of using wood "plates" in the range of a square foot?
I think it would actually be plenty strong if I used 2 x 12 and it would be more more gentle on the bed.

Would it be OK to run the mounting bolts for the crane through the bed and secure to the frame members?
I'm not sure if there is built in isolation of any kind for the bed mounting that doesn't want a rigid connection.

I used to be on the forum a lot and loved it. The combination of a growing child and a new truck with a really long warranty (which I never had to use :) ) kept me away.

Thanks in advance to everyone.
 
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Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: 81874766E40C6A 5th, 2022

bobbywalter

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My credo
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i use them.



mine are on a multi mount....my tall unit which was not a h-f was stolen...or half stolen...


the main one i use is a h-f shorty with an extension, goes in a hitch with lil out riggers....that way i can use it with anything that has a hitch....

getting old so i have to have a way to move shit.


the one that was dedicated to the ranger has to be rebuilt.
 

bobbywalter

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5/8 to 1 in treated decking i would consider a good idea for the base if i was in a hurry and needed it.


but a piece of 1/4 plate is less intrusive. 1/4 plate 1'x1' on top in bed with just the angle iron pieces on bottom is overkill for the rated load capacity.
 

barrys

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Thanks bobbywalter,
I saw those trailer hitch mount versions. I think that's better. It's a bit more money but doesn't need to get bolted to the bed and I'll hardly ever use it. I too am in the too old to lift stuff phase of life.
 

bobbywalter

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i made mine. i will try to make a picture.

the new style like that one has the rotating jack so you can put it where you need it....

it all unpins easily so you can move it and assemble in nice low weight sections. i dont have an L-5 disk anymore and 1-4 are leaking and slipped so its usually done that way.


i weld on a pully and use a boat winch critter like the higher dollar unit. on the uppper section of the one that got stolen i had a nice winch under slung and the pulley hung from the hook so it was fairly versatile.

with the winch you can open the jack and extend it to max height slowly with your hand and shut it in.... and then moving stuff is very quick. i hate trying to jack it to the full height...its as slow as the engine crane.
 

barrys

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I share your back misery. I have not had a fusion and trying to avoid it.
I hope it worked well for you.

I would love any kind of picture(s). I did just get a decent welder so DIY is not out of the question and would be a great first project. My hobby project spending goes over easier with my in house finance ruler if I actually use the tools to make something obviously useful. I could have used one of these "cranes" many times and might be better off if I did...

Thanks again.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Dad's old F-350 had a hoist in the back, it worked great. It could be pinned straight ahead or swivel 360* The top part could be lifted out of the base for gooseneck work. I think it was factory made for trucks, whoever made it it was pretty slick.





He has another truck with a different style hoist (with an electric winch) and the truck that replaced the ol' one ton has a lift gate which IMO gets used a lot more than the hoist did but the hoist was also a helping hand holding heavy stuff while being repaired too.
 
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barrys

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There were definitely reports of the bed getting twisted using the stock mounting plate. I think the wood with a big footprint should be fine as would a 1' sq. steel plate. The ones pictured above have nice, large mount plates.

I still don't know if it's OK to go through the bed and the frame with the mounting lugs. Anybody?

All that said, the trailer hitch one is totally worth the extra money and I like that I can remove it easily.
 

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There were definitely reports of the bed getting twisted using the stock mounting plate. I think the wood with a big footprint should be fine as would a 1' sq. steel plate. The ones pictured above have nice, large mount plates.
I think dad had plates on the bottom of the bed floor so the bolts wouldn't pull thru but yeah, that tiny base on the HF one is asking for problems (but allows it to tuck under the bed rail)

Not sure if I would go wood, it is going to get wet and soft as it ages. Steel isn't really that expensive.
 

barrys

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I think that hitch mount is the way to go for the amount I'll use it. That Edison quote is great. I grew up 10 minutes from his house. I'm surprised I'm not smarter just by osmosis.
 

bobbywalter

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My credo
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two strips of angle bridge under the floor that span frame rail to rail with a series of bolts.... its pretty good for 1000 pounds or so and cheap.. its nice for powerwashing engines and transmissions and stuff in the winter at the coin op so you dont have to winterize your crap at home after you drag it out...anf you dont load your rig up with goo and ice...
 

barrys

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I had actually heard that those standard mountings would be a bit much for the sheet metal of the bed. But, 1' square steel above and below should do it.

No one has responded to this question:
Can I run the mounts right through the bed and the frame or do I not want to bolt my bed to the frame? I know it's not an easy question.

I'm still liking this one:
https://www.discountramps.com/apex-receiver-hitch-crane/p/HMC-1000/?CAWELAID=820562990000017108&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9a_-lu_P3gIVz8ZkCh1jNw5PEAEYASABEgJgavD_BwE

Bobby, did you have any luck with a pic of the one you made?
 

bobbywalter

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My credo
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what i am saying is to run two 3-4 foot long 1x2 angle irons under the bed bridging the frame and directly tied to the bottom of the stock bed floor. that makes for serious overkill. 1 inch plate steel would be ridiculous...the total weight offset bias would be uncomfortable.


1/4 in or even 10 g would be fine for a better base.



no matter what.

you have to shim the gaps with washers to the base of any normal bed floor being convoluted.

if you dont shim the gaps...then of course you will distort the floor.



i am trying to make some pics....
 

bobbywalter

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My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
you may have to fold or cut sections of the pinchweld ect under the bed.


i dont have one in a normal bed to take a picture...not that i worry about tearing the bed up anyway.











well its not just me...even the kid i had put the pics in my pc said its a pia with my phone setup.


not sure if this will work or not.
 

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barrys

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Thanks so much for all of that bobbywalter (I'm wondering if you prefer Bobby). I was thinking about 1' square steel sheet either .25 or .375 thick. 1" thick would be a bit much indeed. Great pics. Really appreciate that.

I used to be on this forum all the time and loved it. You guys are awesome. I got a new Ranger with an extended warranty (which I never used) and it's over now. So, I got the real Helm workshop manuals and will be maintaining again. I got a 4.0 in the new one -- which is cray cray. I checked out the procedure to change the plugs and felt like crying. But, I'll muttle through.

85_Ranger4x4, I looked at your 85 build. Great work and it seems like you're fresh out of high school. Awesome. That's about when I did my most ambitious work on modding cars myself. Question... How do you get traction with the rear wheels with no weight over them and that short block?
 


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