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Half or one tons?

Turboford

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I have a bit of a problem. I have a set of 78 (Bronco) d44/9"; 3.55's ltd slip axles. I also have a damn nice set of 38" TSLs to go with the axles.

Then, I have a "set" of 78 (F250 snofighter) D60/10.25 (89 F350), 5.13's and 16.5-16.1 Firestone "tractor tires" (right around 40").

The real kicker is, my ranger is a turbo 4! (M50D/1350)

....and how is everyone getting past the tiny (2" maybe?) driveshafts/u-joints??? (sry, I'm a full size guy)

I've read the tech library dozens of times and searched for hours on end, learned some neat things, and still haven't found out how to transmit power from the trans to the (big) axles :icon_confused:
 


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If you bump up from the little 1210 u-joints to 1310s 1330s, you should be able to find yokes for the 1-ton axles no problem (at least for a front 60, I'm not as sure for a sterling rear if you might need to go with a 1350 or not).

Later ('90+) RBV driveshafts all have 1310s or 1330s. You could always get a driveline shop to make a custom one with any of the above joints too.
 

Turboford

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Would it even be realistic to run one ton gear under a 4 cyl ranger? ...it could even stand to lose some weight yet! I suppose I could still drive it like I stole it and never have to worry about breakage.

Would I have to jump to a bw1354, or could I just get newer driveshafts and stay with the 1350?
 

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Would it even be realistic to run one ton gear under a 4 cyl ranger? ...it could even stand to lose some weight yet! I suppose I could still drive it like I stole it and never have to worry about breakage.

Would I have to jump to a bw1354, or could I just get newer driveshafts and stay with the 1350?


depends on gearing and ultimate power.


you should have 1310 front joints already.


i have spring loaded and run double slips on the front slip cases early on...like late 80's-to mid 90,s rather regularly for bolt in lift solutions..hack yes....effective yes.

out back you can run the 1210 at the case and a 1310-30-50...or whatever at the axle end no problem.....well till theres problems:D

1310 rear flange for the case is easy to get anyway....

start with the 1/2 tons....more practical on a light rig with mid power and sane tires
 

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or do a motor swap
 

Turboford

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depends on gearing and ultimate power.


you should have 1310 front joints already.


i have spring loaded and run double slips on the front slip cases early on...like late 80's-to mid 90,s rather regularly for bolt in lift solutions..hack yes....effective yes.

out back you can run the 1210 at the case and a 1310-30-50...or whatever at the axle end no problem.....well till theres problems:D

1310 rear flange for the case is easy to get anyway....

start with the 1/2 tons....more practical on a light rig with mid power and sane tires
I'm *thinking* 4.88's or maybe even 5.13's...and as mentioned, 38" TSLs. I figure a d44 should survive, even with 38's, on such a light vehicle. My engine originally made right around 150 hp, but being 25 years old, I'd imagine my junkyard find is a little tired. But hey, it beats the piss out of a yota!

You kinda lost me at "spring loaded w/ double slips"...is that a slip yoke shaft with another slip joint (spring loaded) in the center? I have no issues with function, as long as its safe. So hack+effective=winning!

One day, I'd like to score a t-5 and run my divorced/twinsticked np205, but that won't be for a while.

Also, I'm considering maybe 6-8" of lift upon my SAS (+ sheet metal work) to get these 38's under my truck.
A) will that be reasonably adequate? (still want SOME sheet metal)
B) aside from brake lines, what am I looking at in the way of drive line lengths/angles & steering? (I have a 93 F350 drag link already on my d44)

And in relation to my "hack+effective" comment earlier, yes, I'm a cheapskate. (or broke, whichever sounds "better")
 

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I'm *thinking* 4.88's or maybe even 5.13's...and as mentioned, 38" TSLs. I figure a d44 should survive, even with 38's, on such a light vehicle. My engine originally made right around 150 hp, but being 25 years old, I'd imagine my junkyard find is a little tired. But hey, it beats the piss out of a yota!

You kinda lost me at "spring loaded w/ double slips"...is that a slip yoke shaft with another slip joint (spring loaded) in the center? I have no issues with function, as long as its safe. So hack+effective=winning!

One day, I'd like to score a t-5 and run my divorced/twinsticked np205, but that won't be for a while.

Also, I'm considering maybe 6-8" of lift upon my SAS (+ sheet metal work) to get these 38's under my truck.
A) will that be reasonably adequate? (still want SOME sheet metal)
B) aside from brake lines, what am I looking at in the way of drive line lengths/angles & steering? (I have a 93 F350 drag link already on my d44)

And in relation to my "hack+effective" comment earlier, yes, I'm a cheapskate. (or broke, whichever sounds "better")
your dead on the spring loaded yoke:icon_thumby:


if you see some old school amc 4x4 eagle cars in the junkyards check and see if any have a good t5...i actually used/adapted those slaves in 302 conversions before....anyway, theres a way to make it work with the ford bell...dont remember the combination. theres an input shaft length issue...the only other thing is what clutch will fit on it...pretty sure the t coupe is the same though..

the eagle t5 itself.. they are very hard to find units though:icon_confused:...

.regardless it has a truck friendly 1st gear...and you can use jeep t cases...make for a cheap doubler and light weight...

with the power levels you have i would go 1/2ton...:icon_thumby:
 

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out back you can run the 1210 at the case and a 1310-30-50...or whatever at the axle end no problem.....well till theres problems:D

1310 rear flange for the case is easy to get anyway....
just thought I would add to this. The stock yoke was the 1210 yes, but is it just as easy to get a 1310 yoke.

the exploder front yoke is 1310, and you can grab the explorer front shaft and have it cut down.
 

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I have never understood u joints/sizes. I just know there are small ones and bigger ones. All the numbers are kind of Greek to me. Does it say "1210" or "1330" somewhere on the joints? I confess I've never paid much attention.

And for some odd reason, 1st gen exploders are kind of uncommon around the local yards. Was there ever a 1350 under one? Or do u adapt the shaft to the slip yoke? This kinda sucks bc I have an array of full size stuff laying around for 73-97 trucks...

I'm having trouble finding gear sets, as well (on the cheap!) I'd even settle for 4.10's right now.

Bobbywalter, might you care to elaborate on what size spring you put on the slip joint and exactly where you put it? (I'm kind of relating this to a trick I saw for a TTB d44).

Oh, and a mustang buddy of mine MAY have a t5 coming up for sale soon, ironically it's from a Turbocoupe. I hear they have "low first" in them, as well... What might it be worth?
 

Turboford

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OH...and any thoughts on xj coils in the front of the truck? They're stock, but I plan on custom coil buckets anyway. If I don't run those, I still have F150 coils, too.
 

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Just throwing it out there you might want to go to deeper gears. My 4.0 had 4.88s and 33's and is moving to 5.38's and 37's that keeps it reasonably close to a stock ratio...
 

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You could toss your divorced case behind the 1350 to have a poor mans doubler.... Just a thought since you have low hp and want to spin large tires.
 

Turboford

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You could toss your divorced case behind the 1350 to have a poor mans doubler.... Just a thought since you have low hp and want to spin large tires.
Ive actually been kicking this idea around, as well. Just not sure how much room I'd have under the truck for driveshafts. That's actually the whole reason I have the divorced np205, anyway. It was just intended for my full size. I may try this, though, til I can afford a r&p (I can, but u kno how it goes...) now I'm wondering what that tc linkage would look like?

Also, wouldn't a 2.3T put out similar numbers to a 4.0? Granted the power bands would differ...but still...? The only reason I'm shying away from 5.38's is bc I hear the pinion is smallish. Then again, I hear this from guys running 400+ hp big blocks in a 5,000#+ truck. So that may be acceptable in a 4cyl ranger...
 

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You could toss your divorced case behind the 1350 to have a poor mans doubler.... Just a thought since you have low hp and want to spin large tires.
Seems a lot more difficult than just snagging a 1354 from the junkyard and building a 1350/54 doubler.

Ive actually been kicking this idea around, as well. Just not sure how much room I'd have under the truck for driveshafts. That's actually the whole reason I have the divorced np205, anyway. It was just intended for my full size. I may try this, though, til I can afford a r&p (I can, but u kno how it goes...) now I'm wondering what that tc linkage would look like?

Also, wouldn't a 2.3T put out similar numbers to a 4.0? Granted the power bands would differ...but still...? The only reason I'm shying away from 5.38's is bc I hear the pinion is smallish. Then again, I hear this from guys running 400+ hp big blocks in a 5,000#+ truck. So that may be acceptable in a 4cyl ranger...
5.38's in which set of axles? The pinion is only small in the D44 and even then its no worse the 4.88s in a D30. In the 9", D60, and sterling its a normal size with plenty of strength. You have about the same amount of power as a yota so the option is to gear, that's about it short of swapping motors.

The 2.3L turbo stock is 190HP/240lb-ft which is close to 210HP/254lb-ft of the 4.0L SOHC and higher than the 160HP/225lb-ft of the OHV
 
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Turboford

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Seems a lot more difficult than just snagging a 1354 from the junkyard and building a 1350/54 doubler.



5.38's in which set of axles? The pinion is only small in the D44 and even then its no worse the 4.88s in a D30. In the 9", D60, and sterling its a normal size with plenty of strength. You have about the same amount of power as a yota so the option is to gear, that's about it short of swapping motors.

The 2.3L turbo stock is 190HP/240lb-ft which is close to 210HP/254lb-ft of the 4.0L SOHC and higher than the 160HP/225lb-ft of the OHV
Sry, D60. But I suppose it wouldn't be an issue with my hypothetical setup, anyway.

Also, am I to understand a 2.3t/4.0 are similar power levels to a 22r/e/whatever else yota powerplant? I'm not intending to be a smart@$$, just confused is all.

Finally, I believe my 86 tc engine is actually 150hp (forget the tq numbers). But I still feel the need for deep gears to be able to adequately run 38's, so 5.38's prolly aren't a bad idea.
 

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