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H.P. D-44, Driveshaft angle trouble.


scooter

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My front driveshaft u-joint binds up at the t-case when my axle drops.

I have looked at some CV's and I dont think they will do any better than my yolks that I have ground off some materal... The CV's that I have looked at lock up at 22°, my u-joint binds up at about 28°-29° now.

So what does everbody else do?
My driveshaft is 18° off the t-case.

Ideas, suggestions, comments are welcome.
Thanks, Todd S.
 


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It sounds like you've surpassed what the stock driveshaft was meant to do. You'll need to do something aftermarket, and I'd recommend high angle driveline. It's gonna be expensive, but you don't have much of a choice.
 

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It sounds like you've surpassed what the stock driveshaft was meant to do. You'll need to do something aftermarket, and I'd recommend high angle driveline. It's gonna be expensive, but you don't have much of a choice.
I have looked there and also here:http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

I am willing to spend the $, IF I HAVE TO......
I want to know if everyone else who has don this swap has had this problem. If so how did they fix it.

Thanks for the help, Todd S.
 

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I was going to clearance the yokes and take some material off here and there with a grinder, but I'm in the process of ordering my shaft through a local shop here also.
 

Todd

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How much lift are you running? What is your caster set at?

Do you have any pics of your front end?

I have many buddys running HP 44 and 60 without any trouble with using the stock front shaft. Now the LP axles are a different story. Granted none of these are on RBV’s. But still I would like to see what is going on.

A less expensive but more labor intensive rout would be to rotate the housing on the axle tubes to keep the caster the same as what it is now but change the pinion angle. Tip is up and run a double cardien front shaft.
 

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scooter

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Is your setup completed?
Yes, See picture link above. or the TWO below.

I can get close ups and whatever.....


I just want to know what other people with the same setup are running, to see if I f'ed up or what.
 

dude772

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what in the world shocks are those? I dont understand how you dont use any springs?
 

scooter

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what in the world shocks are those? I dont understand how you dont use any springs?

Not that it helps me with my drive shaft trouble.:icon_twisted:


In my Sig.
1989 Bronco II,EB edition, 5.0 L V-8 EFI, roller motor,C-6 Transmission, N.P.205 T-case w/twin stick, 37 X 13.00 X 15 Boggers, 9" 31 spline full width w/ Spool, Dana 44 high pinion full width w/Detroit Locker, 14" King Air shocks on the front, Extended radius arms w/ 1 1/4 Johnny Joints, 4 wheel disk brakes.

Thanks, Todd S.
 

scooter

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HAh, I figured it out ! ! ! ! !

Follow me if you can, this is the VERY short version.

A year ago when I started gathering the parts for this "project", I read about C-Bushings, and that the Energy Suspension were the best ones to buy. So I go to order the bushings, and find out that they make them them in 2°. 4° and 7° offset to compensiate for a lift kit. Knowing that I was lifting my BII about 6-7 inches, I bought the 7° bushings. Welllll, I got to looking at the radius arms and they are pretty level with my frame, it made me think about those 7° bushings. From the stock F-150 ride height, I really didnt lift (or lower I guess ? ? ) the axle at all.

I took off the radius arms and flipped the bushings over and, TA-DA, i gained about 15° of "up" on my pinion angee, (way too much, but the experment worked ! ! !). I orderd the 2° today, and I bet that will solve my problem.

THANKS FOR THE IDEAS, Todd S.
 
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