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Ground Problems

Linus72

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Ok thanks I'll check the alt voltage after driving in a bit
Yes I found all the underwood grounds and they seem to be ok, even removed all of them except engine to firewall and cleaned them
I'm going to replace the engine to firewall ground now
Now it runs great when warm but when cold it misses badly and bogs down on acceleration.
I checked and I'm getting no codes now so that's a plus lol
Thanks for your help!
 


franklin2

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In my experience, when the alternator goes to full output, the battery voltage is more like 16v or more. I think you are ok in the battery dept and the alternator dept now. Your voltages look good.

The flickering lights and dash voltmeter gauge bouncing still points to a control problem with the alternator I believe. You can test this if the alternator connections are easy to get to, by disconnecting the alternator wiring, make sure to tape the ends up so they do not touch anything, and then start the truck and see if the flickering goes away. If it does, that is verification that it is the alternator causing the flickering. But I would not necessarily condemn the alternator. I would inspect the wiring connections at the alternator ( I hope you did this already) and you need to check the this wiring at the far end. I would not worry about the wire going into the cluster, but I would look at where the output wire leads, and where the other wire goes to the fuse box.
 

RonD

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Reads like a choke issue if engine runs poorly when cold and OK after warm up
ECT sensor tells computer engine/coolant temp, if under 140degF the computer then runs a Richer fuel mix and higher Idle, which is what a choke did on a carb

So on cold start is the idle high, higher than after warm up?
If so then ECT and computer are working OK
If engine struggles to idle on cold start then replace ECT sensor on speculation


If ECT sensor is showing 140deg when engine is 70deg then it will struggle to run, because computer just thinks you are restarting a warm engine, not starting a cold engine
 

Linus72

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I just replaced both coolant sensors last week, one for the dash and one for the ecm and no codes now
Yes when it first starts it runs high idle but as soon as it idles down it starts sputtering until warm
I was getting codes p0118 and p0125 until I changed the sensors now no codes.
I'm getting ready to take off the egr valve as it appears new but a used one was in the cab of the truck when I got it.
At least I'll get a look at the carbon build up or if there's blockage.
I can't seem to find a egr tube to fit it so I tried repairing the two reference tubes myself using jb weld and some brass fittings and hose but when I hook it up to new dpfe sensor I can tell the egr is opening even when cold then it cuts out.
I'm getting small vacuum at the egr vac hose so maybe the egr controller is bad but I have the egr off now.
 

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Linus72

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I just ran it for about 5 miles and alt voltage at batt running is still 14.8 volts...
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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I just ran it for about 5 miles and alt voltage at batt running is still 14.8 volts...
Looks like you found the problem. 👍
 

Linus72

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What's that mean?
 

franklin2

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Most newer vehicles run the battery at 14.5 volts or in that neighborhood. I chalk up the 14.8 as a voltmeter tolerance difference. I call that good.

If you think the EGR is leaking, you can make a temp block off gasket out of thin metal or a pop can.
 

RonD

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I just ran it for about 5 miles and alt voltage at batt running is still 14.8 volts...
Thats not right, you didn't turn off the engine correct?
Unless battery was drained voltage should have dropped down, even a bit after 10 minutes or so

Yes, new types of batteries may require 14.0-14.4v, but the regular lead acid(cheaper) batteries that most use don't
Ford did use Silver Calcium Batteries in Rangers for awhile, most switched to lead acid when they saw replacement price, lol
It is a better battery but...................money is money when talking about an extra year or two way down the road

At rest battery voltage is after it has been sitting unused for 4+ hours, says that is 12.6volt

When you start the engine that drains the battery, so just after start up you should see 2 volt higher than "at rest voltage", in this case 14.6v
Then after the quick recharge it will drop to 1.1v above "at rest" so 13.7v

If voltage is not dropping at all after say 15min drive, then voltage regulator is stuck

This is not set "numbers" the 2v and 1.1v
Electricity has "electro-motive force", I call it "push back"
After starting the battery has less "push back" to take in electricity from the alternator, as the battery gets recharged "push back" increases
The voltage regulator senses "push back" so reduces the AMPs/Voltage the alternator needs to output
When you turn on Lights and/or heater fan to high, push back drops, so voltage regulator bumps up AMP output but voltage should settle back down to the same as before they were turned on


The voltage regulator controls the voltage that goes to the rotor, the spinning part of the alternator
If voltage regulator gives the rotor 7.5volts then 13.5volts comes out of the alternators B+ terminal
If voltage regulator sends rotor 8.5volts then 14.5volts comes out
The extra voltage comes from the engine power spinning the rotor
Bad circuit in the regulator can make it stick at 8.5volts, so 14.5volts all the time, this will "cook" a 12volt battery
Its "force feeding" voltage into the battery
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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What's that mean?
Your alternator isnt regulating properly.

But maybe 5 minutes wasnt long enough to fully charge up the battery.
 

Linus72

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It's brand new alt and batt.
Could new alt do same as last one
New one is n111709b
Lifetime warranty
 

RonD

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New now means never, ever, EVER tested, you are the first person to use/test that alternator
The company that makes it doesn't test it, that costs too much money
Its cheaper to have a warranty and replace defective parts

Motorcraft(Ford) and AC/Delco(GM) parts are tested, but cost at least twice the price

So new just means keep an eye on it for awhile, test that its working, take advantage of the warranty if its not
Auto parts stores CAN NOT test alternators, just FYI, so don't fall for that

Have read of people replacing alternators 3 or 4 times to get one that works
 

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