Good appliance brands to buy used....

[rusty ol ranger]

Im done with this friggin maytag turd of a washer. I replaced the shift motor, lasted one cycle, figured ok bad motor, it happens....

Ordered another motor, replaced, was running good thought i fixed it....lasted 3 weeks....took a shit.

Spent 60 bucks on an OEM maytag motor....a week later its junk too.

I am disgusted at the "quality" of this bullshit. Obviously something is causing these shift motors to grenade.

So im gonna buy a used, older, hopefully more mechanical machine...whats some good reliable brands with decent parts availabilty? Who to avoid?


Also please dont just say "buy new"...i paid 6 or 700 bucks in 2013 for this turd. At that price it should of been trouble free even under high useage for 15-20 years minimum.

 

[Dirtman]

 

[rusty ol ranger]

View attachment 51347

Id be on divorce #3....

 

[ericbphoto]

We had a washer and a dryer that lasted forever like that. I don't remember the name. But finding parts was getting difficult and they seemed expensive when I did find them. The timer motor for the washer was a pain. I actually disassembled it twice, cleaned and straightened the contacts and put it back. Ran great. I've had good luck with Kenmore. When searching for parts, I started finding out which brands were all made by the same company. I left those machines with the ex.

My current washer is one that a co-worker replaced the bearings in the main motor/transmission. Then his wife wanted new. It's a fancy machine with all the bells and whistles and works great. Think I paid him $100. Got my dryer from the scratch and dent pile at Lowe's. I ain't proud.

Good luck.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Im gonns have an actual appliance guy come out and diagnose it. I *think* the tranny/gearcase/whatever is shot and its leaking water/oil/whatever down onto that little motor. I know its noisy as hell and theres always little drips of water under it.

A gearcase is 130 bucks and takes like 3 hours to change. This one is all controlled by a main ECM like computer (even will give fault codes but i think its something mechanical).

Guess ill see what old appliance jack says. Wife is weird about used appliances and wants me to try and fix this pile of shit.

 

[franklin2]

Once you work on them a little bit, you will discover there are maybe two types of washers and two types of dryers. They are all the same inside, just different buttons and different colors. You can tell what dryer you are getting. You have the one with the filter in front when you open the door, and you have the one with the filter you pull out of the top. Those are the two main types of dryers.

On the old washers there used to be two main types. One type had the transmission that shifted gears with solenoids. The other type turn the main motor forward or reverse to shift the gearbox gearing. I believe now they have gone to electronic servo type motors to control everything.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Once you work on them a little bit, you will discover there are maybe two types of washers and two types of dryers. They are all the same inside, just different buttons and different colors. You can tell what dryer you are getting. You have the one with the filter in front when you open the door, and you have the one with the filter you pull out of the top. Those are the two main types of dryers.

On the old washers there used to be two main types. One type had the transmission that shifted gears with solenoids. The other type turn the main motor forward or reverse to shift the gearbox gearing. I believe now they have gone to electronic servo type motors to control everything.

Yes and the servo motor is what keeps shitting out. Ive never, ever, had more then a belt fail on a washer.

 

[franklin2]

I want to say the type that made the motor go forward for agitate or reverse for spin were the Maytag types of washers. I think they also drove the waterpump with the same motor. They were pretty good washing machines if you are looking for a older machine. Not much to go wrong under there.

 

[Dirtman]

I've had my samsung washer/dryer set for over 10 years and never had a problem. I may not wash alot of "clothes" in it but I constantly throw muddy fishing gear, boots and greasy nasty rags in it. I had to replace the door hinge once because my dog ran into it and cracked it but can't really fault the washer for that. I have good luck with most samsung stuff except their cheap ass TVs.

I seriously have 3 identical Samsung TVs... they constantly break and I just switch them out while one is getting repaired.

 

[bilbo]

There was one in our house when we bought it. It looked 90s vintage and was Admiral brand. It didn't work so we bought a new one, a Maytag upright with no agitator, and it's direct drive. I told my wife we are not getting the front load because I am tall and hate bending over to load it. I can shoot hoops from across the laundry room with ours. The only trouble we have had with that one is a seal failed on the bottom of the tub and took out the bearing. It's not hard to replace and the machine has been pretty decent otherwise.

After tinkering with it, found the Admiral worked fine I was just not patient enough to wait for it to start the wash cycle after filling. It would sit and do nothing for like 45 seconds. We used that one for a while as a crappy work clothes washer but haven't used it in a while. If you were closer to ND you could have it!

 

[txgocartB3000#2]

Speed Queen.

Industrial quality built and no HE crap.

Ray

 

[97RangerXLT]

Get a Whirlpool/ Kenmore/ Roper direct drive washer. they have been made for over 30 years, no computers, very simple to work on. I bought one new in 2002, replaced it 3 years ago with one that looked just like it but much newer and less wear. my issue with the 2002 model was the cabinet around the bleach dispenser was rusting out and due to the age and other things that needed addressed, it was easier to replace. besides, the new to me model was free and the only problem was a leak that was fixed with a part from my old washer

AJ

 

[rusty ol ranger]

There was one in our house when we bought it. It looked 90s vintage and was Admiral brand. It didn't work so we bought a new one, a Maytag upright with no agitator, and it's direct drive. I told my wife we are not getting the front load because I am tall and hate bending over to load it. I can shoot hoops from across the laundry room with ours. The only trouble we have had with that one is a seal failed on the bottom of the tub and took out the bearing. It's not hard to replace and the machine has been pretty decent otherwise.

After tinkering with it, found the Admiral worked fine I was just not patient enough to wait for it to start the wash cycle after filling. It would sit and do nothing for like 45 seconds. We used that one for a while as a crappy work clothes washer but haven't used it in a while. If you were closer to ND you could have it!

So i called an appliance repairman. He confirmed what i was thinking that it was the gearcase. Pretty sure what you said happend to your maytag is what killed mine. I think im gonna spend the 150 bucks and change the trans. The washer is in great shape besides that...and the dent i put in it when i punched it yesterday.

He said theres a sensor that will keep it from shifting/spinning if the load is to high, and with bad bearings in the case itll throw the sensor (its in the motherboard, so it cant really standalone fail)

Once i remove the old one i see they got a gearcase rebuild kit for 30 bucks. I might rebuild the original and keep around incase this becomes a habit.

 

[pjtoledo]

Maytag and Whirlpool are one and the same. Whirlpool used to make some Kenmore products.

 

[racsan]

I worked at the whirlpool dryer plant in marion. whirlpool, maytag, amana, roper, kenmore are all the same for the most part. I may have forgot a brand or two. Switches are made in china, the motor in mexico. alot of other foreign sourced parts. The “made in usa” sticker cracks me up. Its assembled in usa, but very little of it made here.