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Going full circle


Josh B

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Will I have to have a clutch kit? The 96 4.0 that's going in was bolted to a 44r4 or some such.
I've got a new pilot bearing but hadn't given a new clutch any thought.
The M50D that's going in has been rebuilt and has a new main shaft.
I am not really going for the brick S-house approach, just something to keep on keeping on with while I rebuild the original motor
The Explorer engine was running really well but it's been setting near 2 years now
 


Josh B

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I had a gasket set that didn't cover the heads but decided to go ahead and check the heads.
Found a Mahle Head Gasket and intake set, with the head bolts , Mahle HS5887WB, for 142.99 at Auto Zone.
Called today to get it ordered but the parts said it's not available from the manufacturer.

I looked up the same set from Oreilly and they seem to have plenty, at $100.00 more ($242.99) :/
 

Josh B

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Is there any difference between the 94 and 96 4.0 head gaskets? Lower intake gaskets?
As I see it now I will be using 96 Explorer block and 93 Ranger intake in the 93 ranger.

I am constantly watching the weather but this is not the best time of year to get many days of good weather together. I hate going without getting new head gaskets and checking underneath to see how the cylinders look but if I get a window I'll likely go ahead with it
 

Josh B

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I looked under the truck and saw an oil drip on the transmission, it looked clear
DSCF6536.JPG


Sure enough

DSCF6539.JPG



Looks like the new rebuilt transmission will get a new Slave cylinder
Haven't even thought about that for a while.
Is the AZ store brand sufficient?
 

scotts90ranger

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It's something you don't want to do twice, I asked similar recently for the '90, it's only a couple more bucks to get a LUK...
 

RobbieD

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My credo
Toonces drives a Ranger . . . . just not very well.
I like and trust LUK parts, too.

On my last clutch replacement I used a Perfection pre-filled master and slave set:
RockAuto clutch set

There was no bleeding problems, and it's been fine for going on 4 years now.
 

Vindictus

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I like and trust LUK parts, too.

On my last clutch replacement I used a Perfection pre-filled master and slave set:
RockAuto clutch set

There was no bleeding problems, and it's been fine for going on 4 years now.
I put that same kit in mine to. And it's going on 4 years also. No problems works great
 

Josh B

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Is there really any need for me to do the clutch at this time? I put all new in 2007, Flywheel, Clutch, pressure plates and have put appx 110K miles and it doesn't show any symptoms of a problem.

I do however need the Slave Cylinder for sure, but must the entire Slave Cylinder system be replaced together?

All I have easy to locate was my flywheel box which I kept assorted misc tools and such in, it's a precision flywheel, not sure exactly what brand the clutch and PP were. If I thought they might be good another 50Kish I would not currently hesitate to keep them in the mix

I have to get the Slave Cyl but looks like at this point I will need to go with that and what else I already have

Also hoping I'll get a week or two good weather sometime this Spring
 

RobbieD

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My credo
Toonces drives a Ranger . . . . just not very well.
RA is not what it used to be, and I only use them when I have to (like clearance items or 'no where else' items).

I understand having to watch the expenses. If I was going to do just a slave cylinder, I would try hard to find a pre-filled one, OR, just go ahead and bite the bullet, and pull the master cylinder so that I could bench-bleed the pair, then reinstall the original master along with the new slave.

First time I did a clutch on one of mine, I like to have never got the damn thing bled (it was pre-TRS). Once an air bubble gets up into that backwards-sloped master, it's hell to get out.

Good luck; I've learned that with a clutch job, the liquor store is your friend.
 

Josh B

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I might get through it after all, just the hydraulic set anyway, the rest of it I'll either piece together or go back in later
 

Josh B

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DSCF7030.JPG


I got under the Explorer yesterday to see what the exhaust may have in store. Hit it wit somePB a couple hours earlier and used an impact but it didn't do much. Then took the long Williams rachet and a cheater and they commenced to twisting right off, after 28 years. It put a strain on me but it got done
DSCF7041.JPG


Reckon I could get another 10K out of that?

DSCF7043.JPG


This is the one I got from Minnesota and it got a boogered up tail shaft, a cousin found a replacement and redid the transmission, so I'll give it another go now

DSCF7046.JPG

Carried my garage floor out here. Two jacks and two jack stands each bearing weight.

DSCF7055.JPG


I cleaned most of that out but still some there over a month later. I picked up that grass on a four lane divided US Highway jst after dark on a very stormy evening. As I got out of town and onto the highway the hardest part of the storm was hitting, I expected a tornado could show up at any time. The wind was blowing fiercely and the rain so hard to see through. I'd go a hundred yards maybe and run off the highway and water would splach across the hood. I'd turn it back up on the road and a few hundred yards more I'd run off the other side, splash more water and whip it back. That was the very roughest weather I've ever got stuck driving in. about 3 miles out was a travel plaza I ducked into till it eased up again

DSCF7060.JPG


This is from the original transmission I had to revert to when the rebuilt from Minnesota went bad. A friend towed me home and I put the old one back in. It had 234K when I got it, and I put another 110K before replacing it, then used it another 2 years after that went bad, I think it's due a rest :)

DSCF7062.JPG
 

Josh B

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That's from the original I just pulled out today for likely the last time, unless it get a rebuild, which it hasn't had for near 400,000 Miles
 

Josh B

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Well, actually I haven't pulled it yet, but am right down to it.
Today's experience included a constant wind gusting to 30 plus MPH, and sometimes more traffic than Grand Central Station. I'm still wearing the dirt and grit in my eyes and can't wash it out. Even though I worked at it most the day I didn't get near as far as I had hoped to

DSCF8017.JPG


I did get this far tho, that's the way I block up the TC, it works real well with 4X block on the high end

DSCF8028.JPG


I believe I could be screwed on my slave cylinder. I was running low on time and money and decided to just go local, and had a bonus points or whatever they call it from buying the upper engine set from AZ for $20 off. I went there and asked for a Perfection and was looking at it and something came up I can't recall what and they had another one I looked at and asked about it. It was pre-bled and $3 more. I asked, "$3 the only difference between these?" So much for my ADHD
Anywho what I got was not Perfection or any other I ever heard of, and today I realized this has a clip on latch, and I am not even certain they will connect!? :/
DSCF8054.JPG
DSCF8055.JPG
DSCF8057.JPG
 

Josh B

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I'm hoping that slave cylinder will work, looked inside, it's got little spring catches all around it to lock it in.
Don't know how it's supposed to come off , maybe I'll just leave that question till next time eh?
Hoping it will do the trick, if so all I got to do now is drop the transmission and start back together with it
DSCF8060.JPG
 

RobbieD

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My credo
Toonces drives a Ranger . . . . just not very well.
I'm hoping that slave cylinder will work, looked inside, it's got little spring catches all around it to lock it in.
Don't know how it's supposed to come off , maybe I'll just leave that question till next time eh?
That's the same setup used on my '90 to '94 trucks.

For that type of slave fitting, the correct line on the master side should have a plastic sleeve (gray):

master line fitting.jpg


Pushing in on the line AND pushing in on the sleeve pushes the metal spring catches in the female side off of the single retainer barb ring on the male side, allowing the lines to be uncoupled.

Hope it helps; good luck!
 

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