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Going back in.... last time i hope..


Burnsy

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Maybe you could make a video showing you trying to wiggle each pulley, while holding the pulley still(not spinning)
 


mc17eln

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No BELT NO noise.
@Shadowridr1 Great news. Mine is 2002 3.0 automatic rwd with stock 225/70/15 tires. It's on jack stands now waiting for a pair of rear shocks. However, 2800 rpm at 75 mph seems to be in the range of what I recall too.
 

Shadowridr1

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@Shadowridr1 Great news. Mine is 2002 3.0 automatic rwd with stock 225/70/15 tires. It's on jack stands now waiting for a pair of rear shocks. However, 2800 rpm at 75 mph seems to be in the range of what I recall too.
Yeah I spoke to soon on the no noise thing. I was too gun shy. I did it this morning again since I still had the belt off and fan off, and it was doing it still.. however, I can tell you the noise is not the water pump, not the timing chain, not a lifter, rocker or pushrod on bank 1, and not a pulley.... so that leaves bank 2, cam, piston slap or rods. My running total on repairs and fixings are more than half of what I paid for the truck and YES I could have purchased a 5.0 and installed it for the money I've put into this 3.0. That thought alone makes me sick and irritated... I'm done with it, it's going to a mechanic shop next week.
 

Shadowridr1

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SO, it's been a min since I actually messed with the pickup. Roughly about 12 days since I put it back together and decided it's time to go to a shop, because I gave up on the tick noise.
I haven't started it or anything in these 12 days. This morning I started it just to circular things. I let it run for about 30 secs or so and then raised the rpm slowly to 2k then to 2500, no noise, then to 3500, still no noise. I let it idle back down and did it again, but went straight to 3k and held it... no TICKING. I let off and let it idle back down, thinking WTF... did it fix itself. So, 1 last time I revved it to 2500 and it started ticking, 🤦‍♂️.......
So, to my knowledge, in those 12 days, wouldn't the lifters bled off a little if not completely making a ticking noise immediately?
So, why after this long would it NOT tick at first, then start ticking?
Is it oil velocity, its new, motorcraft oil 5w-20 synthetic and motorcraft filter, I changed it right before I parked it. Only other thing changing was the coolant temp....... I'm very confused by this.... more so than ever, this makes no sense to me at all. I honestly don't want to take it to the shop, but refuse to tear back into the engine unless I know EXACTLY wtf this ticking is.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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The oil is thicker when cold and thins as it warms up.
 

Shadowridr1

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The oil is thicker when cold and thins as it warms up.
So am I needing thicker oil? I mean from what I've read if this is a lifter tick, which I assume it to be, thicker oil would make it worse.
 

mc17eln

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I agree with alwaysFIOoReD. It's a reasonable guess: your cold engine didn't tick, a warmed up one did.

If you are sure about the lifter, compared to taking the engine out, swapping lifters, push rods and rocker arms are fairly easy. Say using your mechanics stethoscope you pin point cylinder 2 lifter is the loudest. Swap both valves gears with cylinder 6. Then see if cylinder 6 becomes loudest.

@Shadowridr1 Speaking of stethoscope, have you listened to the block instead of the cylinder heads and valve covers? If the sound from the block is louder than it is at the head, then it's a piston or connecting rod.
 

Shadowridr1

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I agree with alwaysFIOoReD. It's a reasonable guess: your cold engine didn't tick, a warmed up one did.

If you are sure about the lifter, compared to taking the engine out, swapping lifters, push rods and rocker arms are fairly easy. Say using your mechanics stethoscope you pin point cylinder 2 lifter is the loudest. Swap both valves gears with cylinder 6. Then see if cylinder 6 becomes loudest.

@Shadowridr1 Speaking of stethoscope, have you listened to the block instead of the cylinder heads and valve covers? If the sound from the block is louder than it is at the head, then it's a piston or connecting rod.
Yes sir, from what I remember the tick noise is pretty dominant on the head, intake and on the exhaust manifold all on passenger side, compared to putting the scope on the block in the same area. With everything up top being new would it be a waste of time draining the oil and doing an oil fill of a heavier oil (10w-30) and Lucas oil treatment? Or even a seafoam treatment?
 

Shadowridr1

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I'm just having a hard time believing the valve train has any blockage. I mean at one point I was basically running an oil/ gas mixture through it, lol.
 

mc17eln

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noise is pretty dominant on the head, intake and on the exhaust manifold all on passenger side
Can you narrow it down further? cylinder 1 vs. 2 vs. 3?

When you buy a pair of cylinder heads, you normally only get valves and springs -- reusing your old rocker arms, push rods and lifters. I think swapping those reused parts with the driver side is your best way to diagnose.
 

Shadowridr1

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Can you narrow it down further? cylinder 1 vs. 2 vs. 3?

When you buy a pair of cylinder heads, you normally only get valves and springs -- reusing your old rocker arms, push rods and lifters. I think swapping those reused parts with the driver side is your best way to diagnose.
Only thing not new is the rocker arms themselves. I did change out the entire passenger side rockers with another set of used rockers, swapped the push rods around a well and made certain of torque specs last time I was in there just to cover all bases.
 

mc17eln

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Did you swapped the lifters too? For swap and compare to help with the diagnostic, you have to swap all of them at the same time.

I forgot whether you pulled the camshaft before. When you pull the lifter, use an endoscope camera to check and compare the cam lobes.

When you swapped 1,2,3 with the driver side, did the noise stay put on the passenger side? That's probably the most important question here.
 

Dirt Squirt

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Just a random thought. Maybe a cracked exhaust manifold or exhaust manifold gasket a little out of position? Sorry if that was already covered. (too lazy to re-read). I'm old and don't have much time left. ha ha.
 

Shadowridr1

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Did you swapped the lifters too? For swap and compare to help with the diagnostic, you have to swap all of them at the same time.

I forgot whether you pulled the camshaft before. When you pull the lifter, use an endoscope camera to check and compare the cam lobes.

When you swapped 1,2,3 with the driver side, did the noise stay put on the passenger side? That's probably the most important question here.
No sir, I didn't do the lifters as well. And nothing was swapped from one side to the other, I didn't want to tear into it that far.

Just a random thought. Maybe a cracked exhaust manifold or exhaust manifold gasket a little out of position? Sorry if that was already covered. (too lazy to re-read). I'm old and don't have much time left. ha ha.
No worries, I'm certain these guys are tired of hearing about this truck. They have done nothing but help and I sit over hear firing the parts canon instead of triple checking what I've done. To answer your question, no I have not checked or even thought about the manifold being cracked or gasket either for that matter. Ever time I've heard a bad manifold gasket they all sound the same which is not what this sounds like, can't say I know what a cracked manifold sounds like
 

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