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Gearing


dvdswan

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It's usually the axle shafts that sh!t the bed when the Jeep breaks down with 35s. Not the gears.
 


00t444e

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It's usually the axle shafts that sh!t the bed when the Jeep breaks down with 35s. Not the gears.
Jeep Dana 35 the axles and the carrier are both weak, and so is the housing and axle tubes they bend easily. You can upgrade the axles, carrier, and put a truss on it then at that point the gears are a weak link and there is no upgrade there other than swapping to a different axle. A factory Ford 8.8, Chrysler 8.25 or Dana 44 are all stronger than a fully upgraded Dana 35 which is why I never reccomend spending any money upgrading Dana 35 when you can just swap to a much better axle. As for the IFS Dana 35 in the Rangers it doesnt really have those issues, since the housing and tubes aren't supporting the weight of the vehicle like a straight axle, it is in the front instead of the rear, and it is an entirely different design other than the differential and gears. Most of the time on a Ranger you will break a CV, U joint, or hub before an axle shaft of something in the differential.
 
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dvdswan

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It all depends on the skinny pedal. Eventually, something will break.
 

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When I had 4.56 gears installed, they had to grind the rear ring gear where the pin went in for the Torsen slip differential. I don't know if that is only for a differential with a Torsen or is needed for other applications. They told me for 5.13s they would order a special pin designed for that.

I know when I changed the rear axle bearings last year, that pin was really tight in there and I had to pound it out.
 

Shran

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The axles and the carrier are both weak, and so is the housing and axle tubes they bend easily. You can upgrade the axles, carrier, and put a truss on it then at that point the gears are a weak link and there is no upgrade there other than swapping to a different axle. A factory Ford 8.8, Chrysler 8.25 or Dana 44 are all stronger than a fully upgraded Dana 35 which is why I never reccomend spending any money upgrading Dana 35 when you can just swap to a much better axle. As for the IFS Dana 35 in the Rangers it doesnt really have those issues, since the housing and tubes aren't supporting the weight of the vehicle like a straight axle, it is in the front instead of the rear, and it is an entirely different design other than the differential and gears. Most of the time on a Ranger you will break a CV, U joint, or hub before an axle shaft of something in the differential.
A D35 TTB does not have axle tubes
Never seen a D35 axle beam bent outside of offroad racing use or wrecks, IE they are plenty "good enough" for what they are
Furthermore a D44 TTB has the SAME issues because it's the same thing just bigger. They break in the same places
D35 shafts and U-joints are the same size as a lot of D44's. My D35 has BIGGER u-joints than my early Bronco D44

I am not sure why you are comparing front axles to rear axles. And then saying the IFS D35 is stronger than the TTB D35................? I don't think so.

If you have misunderstood this whole discussion and are talking about the D28 in the 80's RBVs then I would understand but if not I respectfully disagree with just about everything you have said.
 

dvdswan

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When I had 4.56 gears installed, they had to grind the rear ring gear where the pin went in for the Torsen slip differential. I don't know if that is only for a differential with a Torsen or is needed for other applications. They told me for 5.13s they would order a special pin designed for that.

I know when I changed the rear axle bearings last year, that pin was really tight in there and I had to pound it out.
IMO, anytime you have grind something to fit, something isn't right. Something is mismatched. The manufacturer of the gears would not allow that and deny any warrantee.
 

Shran

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IMO, anytime you have grind something to fit, something isn't right. Something is mismatched. The manufacturer of the gears would not allow that and deny any warrantee.
This is totally normal and acceptable for certain gear sets on certain axles. It is the only way that you can get the center pin in and clear the high side of the teeth on the ring gear. It's been done a million times without issues for that reason.
 

dvdswan

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This is totally normal and acceptable for certain gear sets on certain axles. It is the only way that you can get the center pin in and clear the high side of the teeth on the ring gear. It's been done a million times without issues for that reason.
Never knew that.

Just watched a video on this. I was thinking of grinding the gear totally differently. The type of grinding you are referring to wouldn't weaken the gear IMO.
 
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00t444e

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A D35 TTB does not have axle tubes
Never seen a D35 axle beam bent outside of offroad racing use or wrecks, IE they are plenty "good enough" for what they are
Furthermore a D44 TTB has the SAME issues because it's the same thing just bigger. They break in the same places
D35 shafts and U-joints are the same size as a lot of D44's. My D35 has BIGGER u-joints than my early Bronco D44

I am not sure why you are comparing front axles to rear axles. And then saying the IFS D35 is stronger than the TTB D35................? I don't think so.

If you have misunderstood this whole discussion and are talking about the D28 in the 80's RBVs then I would understand but if not I respectfully disagree with just about everything you have said.
I think you either misunderstood or misread my post or maybe I didn't explain it good enough. The first 3 sentences were referring to a Dana 35 rear axle that many Jeeps used, off topic yes but someone else brought them up. Wen I said IFS I was referring to both the TTB and the SLA setups since they are both types of independent front suspensions and not straight axles. Both are stronger than the Dana 35 rear solid Jeep axle, and I never implied that the TTB was stronger than the SLA Dana 35.
 

00t444e

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IMO, anytime you have grind something to fit, something isn't right. Something is mismatched. The manufacturer of the gears would not allow that and deny any warrantee.
That is the only way to get the cross pin in on many C clip axles with certain gear ratios. I have had to do that to a few.
 

scotts90ranger

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I have a notched crosspin for a 31 spline 8.8 next to me on my desk, it just looks weak, I ground on it a little to clear the Aussie locker back in the day (used it for a few miles I think...), ground the ring gear and haven't looked back, when I changed carriers to the Grizzly it wasn't an issue since they have a different setup to hold the axles apart to keep the C clips in... if someone wants the notched crosspin let me know and pay shipping...
 

sgtsandman

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I know that any ring gear bigger than 4.10 needs at least a tooth or two ground for pin clearance on an 8.8. I don’t know for the other Ranger axles. I would guess that the 7.5 would be similar.
 

scotts90ranger

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I had to grind a tooth on the ring gear on the 4.10 7.5" back in the day when I broke a spider gear...
 

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