gas tank fuel lines

[professor229]

Guess I will admit I need advice on this one. I need to replace my fuel pump/sending unit and have watched numerous videos. I bought the replacement unit from A1 Auto because their unit has a limited lifetime guarantee. The 2004 Ford Ranger has a seven foot boxm 3 liter motor. This truck was totaled and bought back by my neighbor. It became my project truck for $500 two winters ago. I have done over 200 hours of restoration. When I bought it, the neighbor had replaced the alternator and the fuel pump/sending unit so I thought those would be "good to go" for quite some time. How silly of me. I am sure the mechanic who did the fuel pump replacement bought a $50 Ebay special with a one year warranty. My check engine light appeared and the code read a voltage problem with the sending unit. I have also noticed that it uses more gas than it should so I made the decision to replace it myself. I did buy a nearly new 7 foot box for the truck and replaced that so I do know how to remove the box and yes, I used anti seize on the bolts and the plan is to move the box back a couple feet to give me access to the fuel tank... this is sooo easy to do compared to dropping the tank. The videos show step by step how to replace the fuel pump unit except for one particulat problem. Every video seems to try to show how to remove the fuel lines to the unit in the tank.... except, the guy doing the work has his hands in the way so you cannot see how to remove the fuel lines and have to rely on his explanation. I don't want to screw this up so I looked at the OReiilys article on this and also have done some basic research on a tool to remove the fuel lines correctly. One video showed the guy using a longer tool, slipping it around the fuel line and simply pulling... and recommended the tool. There are other tools that look like an X with obviously two different diameters... to accomplish this. Then there are the videos that say "push here" or "squeeze here" after pushing in, squeeze and it will release.....Is it that easy? Is a tool recommended? I might stop in at OReillys and ask to rent/borrow a tool... since I don't really want to buy the tool for this one time application....

Anybody got any advice other than that? Can I remove the gas lines from the unit without a tool? Is there a preferred tool? Is there a tool to avoid? Does anybody have a link to a video that shows how to remove the fuel lines without a hand blocking the view?

Any advice/links/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.... thanks.... Dennis

 

[professor229]

Thought some pictures would help... .would somebody please confirm how to remove the four colored lines? If I have this right after watching umpteen videos...... after releasing the fuel line pressure as much as possible.... start with the yellow tab line and grab the black left part of the plug and push in a bit.... and while gently pushing, press the yellow tab line in and the line should release.... correct? same procedure for the three other colors.... ?????? Thanks

 

[Kira]

I'm pretty sure you got that right....just hold it all firmly in place as you muscle the connection "closed" before you depress the tabs.

Get the "HF" set of colored plastic split-bands if you buy any at all. I say "HF" but you'll find these cheap sets in many catalogs' "universal tools" section.
Be ready to cut these plastic disconnect tools should you need easier access.
Still, I think you're OK 'toolless' at the pump end.
I used the split bands on fuel filter connections. I've never done a fuel pump.

I've put a whisper of silicone grease on the nipples of any fuel coupler I reconnect.

 

[pjtoledo]

yep, no tools. the holes inside the colored tabs are elongated, when its pushed in a lip/edge
will clear a ring on the nipple.
they are tapered, for re-installing just push them back on.

they only lock on 1 side of the hole, that is, 1/2 way around the nipple.

 

[professor229]

Hey!..... TV was exceptionally bad yesterday afternoon and it was a nice day... so I got out of the recliner and went out to the Ranger to figure it out after watching numerous "how to" videos. The only how to video that I will watch is a how to video explaining how people should make a how to video and rehearsing, finding a decent cameraman, appropriate lighting, and getting your hands out of the way so people can see. Enough... I learned enough and the two answers above confirmed a few things but I went down to my mechanic with pictures and he confirmed it too. He said I should be able to push in on the tabs with a finger and also see if the four connections move when you twist them, a sign that they are not old and frozen on. I knew the connections were fairly new from the previous fuel pump installed a little more than two years ago by the previous owner's mechanic. Long story short, the connection came off (I used a thin screwdriver to "push in" on the colored tabs. The middle blue one was the worst because you could not get a straight shot at it. But it came loose. Removed the tank. Found the screw the previous owner dropped into the tank. Tank was very clean. If I had to do it over again, I would have left the old gasket in place... it was in good shape. The new one was a pain. Cleaned up the metal ring collar on the wire wheel.... and it was all good... or was it? Today I will remove the metal ring collar one more time and make sure the gasket is in the trough.... and maybe use a dab of rubber cement in four/five spots to hold it in place while pushing down on the top of the assembly.... I will do this without removing the four lines.... and raise the assembly about 1/8 of an inch to make sure the gasket is right. I assume the purpose of the gasket has nothing to do with pressure and everything to do with sealing the tank.... I want to make sure BEFORE I put the box/bed back in place.... I slept better last night knowing this was done.. Thanks!

 

[superj]

yeah, its to seal the tank and helps with keeping pressure since when you open the gas cap, you hear the whooshing sound of pressure being released

 

[professor229]

Almost turned out to be a day wrecker.... Followed protocol and decided to shut off the battery supply of electricity but first I started the Ranger... no problem.. so I pulled the main relay fuse.... but it argued for some reason this time so I used a plumber's slip wrench and the top cover (white) came off... snapped it back in place and tried again... pressing in a little harder this time and it came... removed the collar and looked... it was all decently in place but at least now I was sure before replacing the box.... put the ring back, looked good... replaced the relay fuse... tightened up the lock out on the battery, turned the key, and a NO START condition.... scratched my head... why? Then remembered a reset switch under the dash on the passenger side... so found that, pressed it, turned the key... still no start... two variables left... the fuse that argued and the new fuel pump itself (groan) .... Went to OReilly's... gal there knew her stuff... basic unit, 1 year warranty $10.... second one about $17 with a lifetime warranty..... ... and a super duper.... $36..... Guess which one I bought? Rock Auto... $3.42 but mega shipping cost and time.... Rode the pedal bike home, inserted the new fuse, turned on the battery knob, and turned the key on, then off... and then back on... and turned it to start.... Hey... I didn't have to swear!!! The Ranger fired right up.... now to find a couple people with strong backs and weak minds to help replace the box/bed..... Life is good again.

 

[nickname23]

Sounds like you had an easier time, they don't sell the original design for the fuel pump anymore. Had to chop the delivery and return ends and I just ran rubber lines with clamps, no leaks and I'm grateful and feel you there those tabs break easily and are a pain to pull off sometimes!

 

[nickname23]

Also a trick for installing the pump, push it down grab a prybar and stick in the outer slot sideways facing the direction you'll turn it, tap it with a rubber mallet with generous force and it will go in very easily. A lot of videos don't show the same plate this one is annoying If you just force it with your hands first it won't keep popping out

 

[professor229]

I thought about just chopping the quick release ends off of the lines and doing the good old fashioned clamp thing and would have if I struggled. Since this fuel pump was replaced by the old owner about three years ago I thought I would never have to deal with it... but here I am.... I see that you can buy the replacement colored inserts as a kit and whoever installed the fuel pump did replace these so they were not all hard and brittle... the colored tabs pushed in quite easily but my mechanic suggested that I should be able to do it with my fingers.... that didn't quite work out so I used a small screwdriver... no problem. I remembered that when I replaced the box, that the fuel pump had a metal ring to secure it instead of the newer plastic ring.... laughed at the one video where the kid showed how to use a punch and hammer to loosen the plastic ring by tapping the tabs... and broke the ring... another guy went out and spent $10 on the "tool" you are supposed to use (large C clamp would have worked better).... I sprayed my metal ring with a penetrating oil and let it sit overnight... and tapped it with a flat blade screwdriver until it moved a couple millimeters, sprayed it some more and tapped it back where it was... repeat and before long you have it (old mechanics' trick)..... I also took it to the bench grinder with a wire wheel and spent ten minutes.... it didn't come out like new, but it sure removed a lot of the rust and sentiment.. and slid back into place a lot easier.... now.... where am I at? I ran the Ranger after and it was all good until the check engine light came on (I removed the battery cables to do this project)... researched... found that this may happen until the computer runs several cycles.... OR some websites/information suggested that the error code stays embedded in the computer until it is "cleared" ...... my son brought his device to remove the code... I then ordered one for $10 delivered... cheap because it was wired instead of blue tooth.... and have driven the Ranger only once for 10 miles down to the lake and back... no check engine light so far... so who knows.... But... if I do get another check engine light P0462.... I can probably say it is NOT the fuel pump/sending unit.... and could be a frayed wire??? Anybody else got any ideas? Bad computer (ouch)? or just drive it? Everything works fine including the gas gauge and the fuel pump obviously.... And finally.. I looked and looked and did NOT see a ground wire off the tank.... and wonder if there is a ground wire off the harness between the tank top and the computer???? somewhere under the truck? Will be annoyed if this is just a bad ground and probably should have started there first..... oh well.... as projects go, this one wasn't too bad.... feel sorry for the people who can't do this though and pay through the nose in labor costs.... $1200 flat rate in California.... unreal....

 

[superj]

you have a metal tank? i haven't had to do a pump on a ranger based vehicle in a long time but i feel like the last time i did one, it had a plastic tank. if its a plastic tank, the ground will be through the harness.


i would just drive it as long as it works fine. you can put some black tape over the check light, ha ha ha. old school fix there

 

[professor229]

It is a plastic tank... so if the light comes back on, I would suspect a frayed wire creating a short from the plug on the tank up under the cab somewhere.... will cross that bridge if it comes to that... I have an HHR that has had a check engine light on for over 100,000 miles... it is a rusted out vent tube on the filler assembly that is not worth replacing... but this one annoys me to where I will crawl under and trace all the wires to make sure... Last resort is to take it to a decent mechanic which I do know and he has been good over the last eight years. I was just hoping someone else had this gremlin and could say, "try this... " but again, the light has NOT come back on since my son shut it off AFTER the fuel pump/sending unit was replaced... PS.. I also own a very nice 1995 Chevy truck... have spent many hours on it.. looks nice.. 81000 miles and it does NOT have a check engine light system... If anyobdy reading all this has a weird idea of why this has happened, let me know and thanks...