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Gas Mileage


exBar

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Location
Texas
Vehicle Year
2000
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
So I drive a 2000 Ranger 4.0L V6 4x4 with just over 180k on it. Y'all know how many great things there are about the 4.0, but gas mileage is definitely not one of them! I'm averaging I'd say around 14.7-15 MPG, and the highest I've gotten is around 16.5. This is a bit problematic, since I drive for work. Just wondering if y'all have any suggestions for mods I can do to increase MPGs? Main things I've found that might help are replacing the intake (cold air intake?) and aftermarket exhaust. Thoughts?

Here's what I've done already that has or may have effected gas mileage (all within last 10,000 miles):
Replaced spark plugs and wires
Replaced fuel filter, pump and sending unit
Ran SeaFoam through the injectors (actually woke the truck up pretty good, I'd recommend doing this in higher mileage engine if you haven't already)
Replaced TPS
 


Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: F9A1A579ACFAD1: October 1st, 2021

MikeG

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Location
central Texas
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
B4000
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
2"
Tire Size
235/75r15
I get a little better than that in a 2wd truck, but not much.

When gas hit $4 a gallon, I bought a Mazda 3, get 35-38mpg, truck sits in the driveway most of the time. ;)

I drove enough at the time that the car payment, insurance, and fuel for the car, was less than just the fuel for the truck. So it saved me money to have two vehicles, not an option for everyone, but....

I'd like to hear how to improve the mileage on my truck as well, but kinda suspect with the fairly low compression of the OHV engine, not sure there's a huge amount that can be done. Anyway will be watching this.
 

dvdswan

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U.S. Military - Veteran
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Location
Seattle, WA
Vehicle Year
1991
Make / Model
Ranger XLT 2WD
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
Keep your mind like an umbrella, it only works if its open... Continually learning.
^^^+1.

Sometimes is cheaper to have a second vehicle. Where I work you see 1Ts everywhere and they can't park. Usually story is I tow on weekends. Your not towing now... LOL Some folks just feel the need to compensate. LOL

Bite the bullet and get yourself a economy DD.
 

09fx4guy

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Location
USA
Vehicle Year
2009
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
Pre Key w/ #1 Bars
Tire Size
265/70R16
That does not seem too far from the norm actually. Questions- What gears do you have in the truck (you can look at the axle code on the door tag)? Also, what tire make and size are you currently running? This can have an effect on gas mileage.

I usually average 14-15 around town and maybe 17-18 on the highway. When I was rolling on Goodyear Wrangler RT/S 255/70R16, I could get up to 20 on the highway if I really tried. I currently run General Grabber AT2 265/70R16.

I have also thought about getting a slightly older economy car to use as a DD. It would save on gas, and god forbid I got hit, I would be not as disheartened as if my Ranger was wrecked.
 

RhodesCD

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Location
36N 80W
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford / Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
245 OHV
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
stock
Total Drop
rear 2" (leveling)
Tire Size
255/65R16
My credo
Be Prepared
So I drive a 2000 Ranger 4.0L V6 4x4 with just over 180k on it. Y'all know how many great things there are about the 4.0, but gas mileage is definitely not one of them! I'm averaging I'd say around 14.7-15 MPG, and the highest I've gotten is around 16.5. This is a bit problematic, since I drive for work. Just wondering if y'all have any suggestions for mods I can do to increase MPGs? Main things I've found that might help are replacing the intake (cold air intake?) and aftermarket exhaust. Thoughts?

Here's what I've done already that has or may have effected gas mileage (all within last 10,000 miles):
Replaced spark plugs and wires
Replaced fuel filter, pump and sending unit
Ran SeaFoam through the injectors (actually woke the truck up pretty good, I'd recommend doing this in higher mileage engine if you haven't already)
Replaced TPS
 

RhodesCD

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Location
36N 80W
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford / Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
245 OHV
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
stock
Total Drop
rear 2" (leveling)
Tire Size
255/65R16
My credo
Be Prepared
A cold air induction system could help, test pipes :) where your CATs are, a change in tire size & possibly a little more air pressure in the front tires could all help. And oh yeah, non-ethanol fuel by itself helped about a mile a gallon for my 98 4.0 ohv ranger
 

Dirtman

Former Middleweight Moss Fighting Champion
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Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
My credo
I poop in the furnace.
That truck has a cold air intake on it from the factory. Replacing it will have no benefit, in most cases the exact opposite.
 

8thTon

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Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
My world is filled with stuff that needs to be fixed
That truck has a cold air intake on it from the factory. Replacing it will have no benefit, in most cases the exact opposite.
Yes, the CAI nonsense is out of hand. Every vehicle made in the last several decades had a cold air intake from the factory!
 

RhodesCD

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Location
36N 80W
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford / Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
245 OHV
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
stock
Total Drop
rear 2" (leveling)
Tire Size
255/65R16
My credo
Be Prepared
Everyone has an opinion, so what I do is to ask the questions & then test & evaluate for myself.
Actual testing & results, are reality. But in this case, I would agree that it depends on the application of stock vs what your actually testing with.

Here's an interesting read
Performance CAI
Anyone who has gone fishing — or free-diving, for that matter — knows that water becomes denser the farther down you go, and the farther down you go, the colder it gets. The same holds true for air. Colder air is denser than hot air, and, in our examination of whether stock intakes are better or worse than aftermarket intakes, we need to look at the source of the air in this equation. A stock intake which draws hot air doesn’t promote combustion nearly as well as a cold air intake, and that’s why upgrading a CAI pays off with increased power.

Airaid Intake System
Airaid Intake SystemThe best intake system brands
Over the years, K&N cold air intake systems have won over legions of drivers — and for a lot of good reasons. These are top-quality products from a company with a long history in the racing industry. They are also among our highest sellers.

Of course, they aren’t the only players in the game today. Airaid cold air intakes have their fans too, as does the individual product, the AEM Short Ram Intake. Check these out and you’ll see that they are designed with bigger bore piping and with minimal twists and turns. This gives the fresh cold air a straighter shot to your intake manifold.

Less resistance equals a greater flow of air, which is exactly what you get with these units. This is another reason why drivers experience gains in hp and torque.
 

MikeG

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Location
central Texas
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
B4000
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
2"
Tire Size
235/75r15
Look where the air actually comes from on the 4.0 OHV stock intake ... just sayin' .... ;)
 

gaz

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exBar,

Do you have an OHV 4.0 or a SOHC 4.0?
 
Last edited:

RhodesCD

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Messages
40
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Location
36N 80W
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford / Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
245 OHV
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
stock
Total Drop
rear 2" (leveling)
Tire Size
255/65R16
My credo
Be Prepared

8thTon

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Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
My world is filled with stuff that needs to be fixed
Everyone has an opinion, so what I do is to ask the questions & then test & evaluate for myself.
Actual testing & results, are reality. But in this case, I would agree that it depends on the application of stock vs what your actually testing with.

Here's an interesting read
Performance CAI
Anyone who has gone fishing — or free-diving, for that matter — knows that water becomes denser the farther down you go, and the farther down you go, the colder it gets. The same holds true for air. Colder air is denser than hot air, and, in our examination of whether stock intakes are better or worse than aftermarket intakes, we need to look at the source of the air in this equation. A stock intake which draws hot air doesn’t promote combustion nearly as well as a cold air intake, and that’s why upgrading a CAI pays off with increased power.

Airaid Intake System
Airaid Intake SystemThe best intake system brands
Over the years, K&N cold air intake systems have won over legions of drivers — and for a lot of good reasons. These are top-quality products from a company with a long history in the racing industry. They are also among our highest sellers.

Of course, they aren’t the only players in the game today. Airaid cold air intakes have their fans too, as does the individual product, the AEM Short Ram Intake. Check these out and you’ll see that they are designed with bigger bore piping and with minimal twists and turns. This gives the fresh cold air a straighter shot to your intake manifold.

Less resistance equals a greater flow of air, which is exactly what you get with these units. This is another reason why drivers experience gains in hp and torque.
This is classic marketing hype, starting off with "A stock intake which draws hot air doesn’t promote combustion nearly as well as a cold air intake", which is not false, but there are no stock intakes that draw hot air.

Then it changes topic to less restriction, which might be important if you've made mods to increase air flow but wasn't the issue here. Beyond that, many of the after market so-called cold air intakes are clearly open to the engine compartment, and are therefore hot air intakes. Surprisingly enough, the engineers who design these systems do actually understand air density and temperature, and hours of dyno time during development would reveal free power if it were that easy.
 

exBar

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Location
Texas
Vehicle Year
2000
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Thanks y'all! I'm gonna have to do more research on a CAI before I bother spending the money for one. I'll probably start with trying smaller tires, since I can just swap wheels with my dad's truck for test purposes. Anybody have any experience with changing exhaust? I really don't see how it could improve mpg, but I read somewhere that it can...
 

Dirtman

Former Middleweight Moss Fighting Champion
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Location
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Vehicle Year
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Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
My credo
I poop in the furnace.
A stock intake which draws hot air doesn’t promote combustion nearly as well as a cold air intake
The stock intake draws air from outside of the engine compartment... hence why the stock intake IS a cold air intake.
 


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