Fuel pump question for 302 swap

[Redleg68]

I have a 1990 Ranger that has a 2 barrel 302 swap. I am wanting to use the original tank, but with external pump due to it having a heavy utility bed mounted to it. I definitely don't want to have to remove it later if I have pump issues! Can I just use one fuel line from the stock tank, plug the return line and add a frame mounted low PSI electric pump?

 

[franklin2]

I would pull the in tank sending unit with the pump and take the pump out and put a line in it's place. Some people pull through the pump leaving it in there, but I never have liked that idea. Try to use some sort of metal line like brake line with compression fittings to take place of the pump. If you use regular fuel line it is not rated for submersion and will not last long. They do make rubber line rated for submersion, but it's very expensive. I believe it's made out of viton all the way through. Regular fuel line is only lined in the middle with fuel resistant rubber, the outside is regular stuff that is not resistant to fuel.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I pull thru the in tank pump, it seems to work fine for me.

I am using a red Holley pump and had to install a regulator for my Edelbrock. If I had to do it again I would use a return style regulator.

 

[franklin2]

Keeping the return system and circulating the fuel at all times is a good idea especially with the lousy fuel they sell now. It's so easy to run into vapor lock. The recirculating system would avoid that problem.

 

[4x4prepper]

> plug the return line

I agree with everyone, do not plug the line, use it for the return from a return style regulator. I even bought one to add to my 2.8L carb engine.

 

[Redleg68]

So how do you plumb the bypass regulator into the stock fuel lines? Presently has the stock connections under the hood. It's high pressure, so I assume the old school fuel line and hose clamps would not work?

 

[RonD]

So how do you plumb the bypass regulator into the stock fuel lines? Presently has the stock connections under the hood. It's high pressure, so I assume the old school fuel line and hose clamps would not work?

If you are switching to a 5-10psi fuel pressure carburetor setup you can just use the one fuel out line at the top of the tank but you need to remove the in tank pump and replace it with a "pickup hose" connected to a "sock filter" at the bottom of the tank
Yes, cap off the old return line port

You can just use barbed fittings and clamps on these low pressure hoses

Most low pressure electric fuel pumps have good SUCTION, most is the key word, all high pressure pumps have 0 suction
Mechanical pumps that were used in the old days have GREAT suction, so could PULL fuel up and over the top of the gas tank
You need an electrical pump that can do the same
Diaphragm pumps(like old mechanical ones), have good suction but limited output pressure
Centrifugal pumps have no suction but can do high pressure, needed for fuel injection


What others are referring to about using the old return line is if you decided to leave a high pressure pump in the gas tank but want to use a carburetor
You can get fuel pressure regulators that have a return line, mounted in frame rail or at the engine end
It lowers the 70+psi to 10psi and sends extra fuel back to the tank so doesn't put too much backpressure on the high pressure pump in the tank

If you are eliminating the high pressure pump in the tank you won't need the return line


Just as a safety heads up
Electric fuel pumps have a big draw back in vehicles
In an accident they can continue to pump out gasoline if a fuel line should break................usually NOT a good thing
With mechanical pumps if fuel flow stopped, i.e. broken fuel line, then engine stops and so does the pump

With electric pumps vehicle makers usually have two automatic shut offs for electric pumps
Inertia switch, has a weight inside, if weight shifts in a sudden stop or roll over it cuts 12v to the pump
EFI needs a computer, the computer can shut off power to electric pump if RPMs drop below 400, which engine would do if a fuel line broke

You can/should use your current inertia switch
You can also use an Oil Pressure Switch, it unGrounds fuel pump relay when oil pressure is below 5psi, can't use this on an EFI engine because it needs fuel pressure to start up
But a carb has a float bowl so can start up and then the oil pressure triggers fuel pump relay to turn on the pump

 

[Redleg68]

If you are switching to a 5-10psi fuel pressure carburetor setup you can just use the one fuel out line at the top of the tank but you need to remove the in tank pump and replace it with a "pickup hose" connected to a "sock filter" at the bottom of the tank
Yes, cap off the old return line port

You can just use barbed fittings and clamps on these low pressure hoses

Most low pressure electric fuel pumps have good SUCTION, most is the key word, all high pressure pumps have 0 suction
Mechanical pumps that were used in the old days have GREAT suction, so could PULL fuel up and over the top of the gas tank
You need an electrical pump that can do the same
Diaphragm pumps(like old mechanical ones), have good suction but limited output pressure
Centrifugal pumps have no suction but can do high pressure, needed for fuel injection


What others are referring to about using the old return line is if you decided to leave a high pressure pump in the gas tank but want to use a carburetor
You can get fuel pressure regulators that have a return line, mounted in frame rail or at the engine end
It lowers the 70+psi to 10psi and sends extra fuel back to the tank so doesn't put too much backpressure on the high pressure pump in the tank

If you are eliminating the high pressure pump in the tank you won't need the return line


Just as a safety heads up
Electric fuel pumps have a big draw back in vehicles
In an accident they can continue to pump out gasoline if a fuel line should break................usually NOT a good thing
With mechanical pumps if fuel flow stopped, i.e. broken fuel line, then engine stops and so does the pump

With electric pumps vehicle makers usually have two automatic shut offs for electric pumps
Inertia switch, has a weight inside, if weight shifts in a sudden stop or roll over it cuts 12v to the pump
EFI needs a computer, the computer can shut off power to electric pump if RPMs drop below 400, which engine would do if a fuel line broke

You can/should use your current inertia switch
You can also use an Oil Pressure Switch, it unGrounds fuel pump relay when oil pressure is below 5psi, can't use this on an EFI engine because it needs fuel pressure to start up
But a carb has a float bowl so can start up and then the oil pressure triggers fuel pump relay to turn on the pump

Thanks man! Very helpful.
So i can wire the existing inertia switch to the new electric pump to cover the safety.

 

[RonD]

Yes, very good idea to do that