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fuel pump issues


threefreeapple

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I have a 1997 Ford Ranger 4.0 xlt 4x4
It has been making my fuel pump fry. I have replaced it twice now and it fixes its running issue for a few days then the pump loses pressure. Im done dealing with it what external fuel pump is best for this? I want to just splice it in to the fuel line but I'm not sure where is best to do that and if the pumps come with the wiring kit or will I be running my own wires to the starter? I looked at some of summit racings products and found a nice one that pumps at 60 psi I know I only need 30-35 so will the fuel rail regulate the pressure and send it at the appropriate psi or do I need one that isnt as strong? I know some come with a regulator and some dont or have them built in or something.

Any help will be appreciated thanks guys.
 


RonD

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No the FPR won't regulate that much pressure, you need a pump with similar pressure, i.e. 35-45psi

The Ford fuel pump is not on all the time, it is controlled by the computer via the Fuel pump Relay in the engine compartment, the fuel pump relay is usually what fails on these.
Computer turns on the fuel pump for only 2 seconds, when key is turned on, to prime the system, then turns it on and off based on speed and RPMs after that.

I don't think an "always on" fuel pump would hurt anything, but can't say for sure.
If you do this then I would use the inertia switch to pass the power for this external pump, so if there was an accident the power to the pump would be cut off.
Inertia switch is just a 12volt in/out so nothing fancy, it is in the passenger side kick panel or upper foot well.
The in-tank pump does have a check valve to hold fuel pressure when engine is off, so you may have to drop the tank to remove the pump and install a pickup tube, just can't say for sure if external pump will be able to suck open that check valve to get fuel reliably.

3rd party in-tank fuel pumps have been reported as marginal when used in rangers/B2s, i.e. lasting only a short time.

A Ford Fuel pump replacement might be the best bet.

I would also test the battery voltage with engine at idle and then at higher RPM, you could have a spike above 15volts causing issues with electrics.
13.6volts at idle and no more than 14.7volts at higher RPM
 
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alwaysFlOoReD

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Because I have a fuel cell on my race truck, I use a low pressure pump mounted on top of the cell. The outlet then feeds into a frame rail mounted pump from a 1988 f-150. It's wired always on. No problems with being always on [touch wood]. The low pressure is an after market, again no problems so far. There is some fabrication of fuel lines involved to make the various parts get along. I think rangers and f-150's used the two pump system, a low pressure in-tank and a frame rail mounted high pressure, from 1986 until 1988 or 89.
Personally I would do some research and learn how your system works, buy some tools, and do a diagnostic on your truck so you can keep the original setup. RonD gave some good suggestions and pointers.

Richard
 

threefreeapple

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my mechanic said the alternator is pushing over 14 v if this is the problem how do i fix it all they said was take it to an alternator shop.
 

piedrarock

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i was looking for threads in my range of questions i have , and since "always floored "mentioned his fabrication of fuel lines and fixtures , im wondering if i can interject and ask him or RonD , or anyone else about fuel lines and fittings that might be attached to either braided s. steel ,or something alongthe lines of compression fittings that plumbers use in housing .
I have been reading my manual regarding fuel lines , regulators , pumps etc and since I will be merging two makes of vehicles and the fuel lines to connect them , I sure would like to get away from the ford specialty tools one needs to connect and disconnect the the fuel lines ,to the rai, l pumps etc. and have the power to make my own custom fittings using s.s. braided , s. s. tubing .and /or whatever else that the innovators are using .
Is this possible to do . ?
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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RonD

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Mechrick

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my mechanic said the alternator is pushing over 14 v if this is the problem
Realize this is an old thread, so now I can say this. Your mechanic needs to go back to flipping burgers. :)

All Ford alternators before the switch to computer control had voltage outputs of roughly 14.5v.

Repeated fuel pump issues there are only two possible causes.

1) Pump quality

2) Fuel quality

Cheap pumps can fail quickly. I went through this with my BII, it took me 3 to get a good one. The pump manufacturer warranted them out, thankfully.

Stale gas can kill fuel pumps. Contaminants in the fuel can too. Rust or flaking galvanization inside the tank is something to inspect before installing a new pump.

-An external pump isn't a good idea. On a warm day, gasoline in the fuel line between the pump and pickup point in the tank can vaporize and vapor lock the pump. That's why the majority of O/E's have in tank pumps or lift pumps, or in rare cases, an external pump and tank sump below the fuel level.

Remember the pump doesn't determine fuel pressure, the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail does. It's just up to the pump to supply the necessary volume of fuel to create the needed pressure at the rail.

Check out the Dorman tool for creating plastic fuel lines. It's possible to duplicate factory lines exactly now.

 
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