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Fuel Plumbing and electrical issues


clowe1965

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Spent about two hours searching but couldn't find it on here anywhere.

I have a 92 3.0 ranger currently holding a 68 302 in it. I've got a mallory return style regulator and a 500 CFM edelbrock. I've got two problems currently.

First, and most annoying, is the fuel setup. There are three lines from what I can tell. Two, which come into the engine compartment via braided SS hoses and went into the fuel injection rails are now cut back by the fuel filter. One is still running through the filter. The other joins the filtered line in a Tee and then goes out to the regulator. This is strange but assuming these were the pressurized lines I duplicated the factory setup with only one of the lines filtered. The third line, closest to the firewall and using a rubber hose to connect to the steel line, was assumed to be the return line and is now plumbed as such with the relief port of the pressure regulator.

The issue is that the fuel gets through the pressure regulator, up to the inline sight filter and then stops. I don't get a build up of pressure, no matter what adjustment I make to the regulator. 0-1 psi. My best guess is that I have the fuel lines mixed up and have the pressure line Tee'd with the return line, giving me flow (checked, pumped about 5 gallons out in the cleaning process) but with any head on the line (the second filter) it goes back through the return. If that is the case then what is the third line that I'm trying to use as the return?

Second problem is I'm not getting power to the electrical coil. I have not bypassed the clutch switch, but when pressed down (with the hoses cut prior to running the new setup) I get nothing. From what I can find in the chilton manual there shouldn't be a reason for this, unless the clutch switch operates off pressure. Thoughts?

FYI not a new guy, had a s/n that somehow got changed, went from cazandoenmicoche to fordsrus (still not sure how that happened, just magically changed one day) and now made a new s/n.
 


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My advice? Stop dicking around with carbs and come into the 21st century.
 

clowe1965

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My advice? Stop dicking around with carbs and come into the 21st century.
O that's rich really helpful. Perhaps circumstances that you are unaware of prevent me from going to an EFI setup. Maybe I had all the components sitting around already and needed a working truck. I'm in the 21st century, just trying to keep the rest of history alive because ITS WHAT I HAVE TO WORK WITH. Lovely thing posting on a forum for the first time in years when I need help and first thing I get is your digital mug.

Any helpful advice from someone else?
 

Silvertooth

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...........I am not sure if this helps or not,but I converted my 95 mustang to carb by useing a 1988 ranger in tank fuel pump.


I got the ideal when my 1988 ranger fuel injected intake fuel pump went out.I realized it had a pusher (intake low pressure pump) and in high pressure on the rail pump.

It works great,my mustang has: gt40p heads, trick flow stage one cam,edelbrock intake with 670 holley street avenger.Good luck with your truck.
 

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The line going through the filter should be the high pressure fuel line, the one bypassing the filter should be the return.
You would not want them to join together until after the regulator. The regulator can be before or after a fuel rail (EFI), but I'm thinking you want the regulator in the feed line, before the carb in your instance.
As it is now, all fuel is being pressurized directly back to your tank.

The clutch position switch is electrical.
Coil needs power in crank AND run... I don't know coil wiring off the top of my head for a carb setup, but google could likely help.
 
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jmcleek

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...........I am not sure if this helps or not,but I converted my 95 mustang to carb by useing a 1988 ranger in tank fuel pump.


I got the ideal when my 1988 ranger fuel injected intake fuel pump went out.I realized it had a pusher (intake low pressure pump) and in high pressure on the rail pump.

It works great,my mustang has: gt40p heads, trick flow stage one cam,edelbrock intake with 670 holley street avenger.Good luck with your truck.
I am going carb as well, asked about the ranger low presure pump and got someone that was positive that a carb has to have 7psi exact(carbs are not a pressure opperated like injectors) all they need is anougth flow and not to much pressure . thanks for the info.
Are you useing the return?
 

jmcleek

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as far as bypassing the cluch switch I would not advise that, if you are going with an automatic then run them wires to the neutral safty switch. if going with a manall leave it or fix it . When I was 18 I found out that a4x4 starts in gear that you cant stop it with both feet standing on the brake and that it will wrinkle the quartors of that nice new Catty all the way to the doors befour it stops. I am 52 now and that emage is burned into my mind.
 

clowe1965

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Thanks for the replies. I think I have the return line from the regulator hooked up to the EVAP canister vapor return line instead of the fuel return. Cut everything up without taking pictures before. Do i need to plug that or leave it open?

As to the clutch, I have no plans to bypass the switch as my wife may be driving this and I'd rather not have her rear-end the other 21st century cars in the driveway. I'm getting power to the coil, but not to the starter solenoid. I can short a wire from the pos terminal to the coil and the starter works just fine. I'm wondering if the switch runs off of sensing pressure and position instead of just position as I don't have any fluid in it right now.
Right now I'm stuck with a manual because I have a t-5 already and would rather not go through the expense of converting to an automatic.
 
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Silvertooth

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I am going carb as well, asked about the ranger low presure pump and got someone that was positive that a carb has to have 7psi exact(carbs are not a pressure opperated like injectors) all they need is anougth flow and not to much pressure . thanks for the info.
Are you useing the return?


No return ,just a line going to the carb.I just grounded the wire for the fuel pump relay so it will run in start and key on.
The pump I used is for an 1988 ranger fuel injected (in tank,low pressure)I got it at auto zone,I think it was about 50$.
 

jmcleek

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No return ,just a line going to the carb.I just grounded the wire for the fuel pump relay so it will run in start and key on.
The pump I used is for an 1988 ranger fuel injected (in tank,low pressure)I got it at auto zone,I think it was about 50$.
thank, thats what I needed to know

John
 

clowe1965

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Running now (briefly). Don't think my neighbors like it when it starts up at 11 pm with open exhaust manifolds. But I had to try it!
 

jmcleek

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Thats grate! Hope you have all your major problems taken care of.:yahoo:
 


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