(Fuel,CPS,IAC Issue)3.0 OHV Trouble Starting 5 speed

[nickname23]

My ranger is giving me a hissy fit. He starts only once per day and I believe it's because gas floods the engine.
Had to replace the Pump and Lines w new filter and drained the tank because of water. Replaced Relay and rewired positive terminal. Replaced plugs because they were shot.

Don't think compression is an issue if I wait until morning it fires up and I can drive like a bat out of hell shifting through every gear and idling isn't an issue.

Thinking it's just still flooded so the new plugs are not going to do much until it dries, anyone else have an idea? It's definitely got fuel pressure once it fires like a good 2-3 inch spray off the test valve but once it's hot with the old plugs it won't stay running even if I bump start it with only clutch.

TPS is working, fuel regulator is with the pump assembly I've swapped the pump twice. Yes I ran HEET so I doubt it's water thinking it's pumping too much gas?

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Get a fuel pressure tester and test what the pressure is both running and not running.

Also pull codes, espicially if a check engine is on

 

[nickname23]

Will do and update once I test the pressure, it's probably having trouble building pressure when off. No engine codes though but once I get it running I'll check to see if anything pops up in the back end.

It's weird it floods only when hot

 

[nickname23]

Fuel filter is clogging up I think preventing enough pressure during startup even though I replaced it still water even a small amount is giving a really low pressure. If I cheef with a little startup fluid the engine will catch and finally stabilize pressure. Lesson learned water sucks but at least it didn't hydrolock!

 

[nickname23]

Replacing Fuel Filter again solved the hot start issue, misfire code probably due to the rough starts he experienced.
The best little trucks out there I doubted the engine took a major hit considering my older Ranger had the 4.0 and that thing would run overheating like nothing.
Never going to let that happen to this one

 

[nickname23]

So after doing everything and getting PROPER plugs and gapping then correctly, previous owner did not, it starts every time but it takes 2 or sometimes 3 tries before it fires.
Thinking the battery being replaced with a correct one also solved a lot of issues, had to rewire the positive terminal because it caused my starter to not turn over.
Thinking my Crank Sensor which is directly in the center pointing at the teeth took a hit.
This sound right? Because he fires up there is some but it sounds like the computer is confused on when to fire

 

[nickname23]

Crank Sensor gets too hot and shorts, issue finally resolved

 

[nickname23]

Also to note the cheap knockoff fuel filters getting completely trashed by water, if they bake in the sun they can sorta get fuel pressure but eventually it gets blocked again.
This combined with a faulty crank sensor was extremely annoying but grateful it wasn't too serious of a fix.
Eventually I may repair my old fuel pump the only reason it failed is a power wire became frayed causing a short when delivering power to the pump.

Poor guy didn't know what to do, either running too rich or too lean and the water took out the last of the old spark plugs life, they needed replacement anyway and I gapped closer to the small side, distribution and wires all are new so I'm trying to save them for awhile.

Getting to the point where the fuel system is free from water then I'll buy the expensive fuel filter until then China can take the beating.

Everywhere I looked and realized my fuel pump and locking plate don't match any other ranger it's not even like my white one, take a big prybar and put it sideways towards the direction your going into the notch then tap with hammer, easy.
Same for installing just use your hands to press the pump down and turn until it's starting to go under the notch, then tap and it won't keep popping out

 

[nickname23]

This new pump also did not fit my connections, so I had to completely redo my fuel lines up to the filter.
Snipped everything I didn't need and even exchanged it because it's pretty much lifetime warranty.

Exchanged because this pump MAKES NO SOUND, I've tested the signal it's there, even left the delivery line out and primed, it shot fuel higher than the truck!!
Previous owner did a horrible job with the fuel lines now Goldstar gets some actual love.

 

[nickname23]

MAF Sensor is overheating, cleaned it up cleared code also cleaned up throttle intake plate real good every connector also.
Runs Fantastic but wouldn't start back up at AutoZone
Soft Code engaged too high temperature on air intake circuit which is related to MAF issues!

There may be another issue combined called Vapor Lock it's extremely hot lately and with this sensor it's getting hard to sometimes impossible to start after engine is at operating temp.
Fuel filter is still good this time, took it out (low octane taste horrible I prefer higher octane) passes blow test so it's getting fuel just not enough air.
Misfire codes are gone thanks to new CPS I installed so now it's the MAF.

FRUSTRATING fixing other peoples rigged work but hey once it's all fixed it will get more and more reliable.
Gonna wait until sun starts to set, clean MAF again and try n drive him home.

 

[pjtoledo]

check the 5 volt signal reference line. it powers several components.

 

[nickname23]

check the 5 volt signal reference line. it powers several components.

Will check this tomorrow, IAC might also be gummed up still died slightly uphill but if I smack the IAC with my hand it stops acting up
Going to take apart my throttle intake and check this out further seems like computer is definitely sending and receiving but there is a issue when the computer tries to open throttle.
If I manually rev the engine by hand it can solve it, if that doesn't a good couple smacks to the IAC breaks something free and the engine finally breathes.

 

[nickname23]

The MAF itself from a physical inspection is very clean almost new including the hot wires.
Going to clean up the IAC Valve and still get another MAF just in case this one was effected by the heat buildup since all that air was not entering the engine at all.
Basically made the engine gallop and backfire until I broke it free using small percussion.

 

[nickname23]

MAF does indeed trigger CEL but it's not the reason for hard starts just makes mileage funky.
The IAC is confirmed to be sticky, if your truck cranks, fires up but gallops it's being starved of air.
Almost like the engine has Asthma a few GENTLE taps to the top of the IAC will unstick the valve inside and if you need to tap it again until it's smooth.
Rev the engine and repeat if it starts galloping or backfiring, trying to just rev the engine will not help because this valve will just choke the engine and it will end up drowning in fuel!
This has been a long one, Personally I blame starter fluid it eventually soaked the valve and with the heat from the engine when off will just bake it into the closed position.
Drove me nuts considering I've fixed everything else but this problem still persisted!
Fuel Pump, new lines, plugs, relay, rewiring etc yet this problem kept happening!

Yet again, it's always something stupid by the end of it!

Even though there is a throttle cable the IAC will eventually starve the engine of air and will drown in fuel causing backfire, misfire and compression loss.
The IAC is how the COMPUTER operates the throttle plate independently from the Driver cable.
This is why revving will help, but the engine will have a seizure because the computer cannot open the plate!
Explains why driving is perfectly fine after fixing everything else but the heat once shut down has to go somewhere, that includes all the gunk on the IAC which is now CLOSED because the engine is off! The mechanism isn't strong enough against the gunk to open the throttle plate resulting in a very weak idle or not at all.

Once the engine cools this gunk will turn semi-solid preventing the engine from starting, and if it does start the valve isn't fully operational it's still sticking. The engine will heat it up enough and that's why tapping frees it but then the cycle will repeat and will frustrate you because it causes symptoms that other parts cause even after fixing them and testing.

It won't even throw a code because the computer doesn't understand that the IAC is stuck! The computer and sensors still read airflow and think everything is okie dokie especially if the IAC partially opens, if anything you'll get a misfire during startup soft code, MAF will heat up because the air inside the intake before the throttle body isn't really going anywhere it's limited.

This causes damage to the MAF also, so mine works it's just now, special

So that's why my truck won't stay running and still stalling even though all the other issues where fixed, fuel pump was just the beginning, fuel lines where rigged prior to me owning so they popped off, fixed.
Spark Plugs damaged by fouling and water, filters ravaged by water, all that fixed.
Wrong battery caused sensor issues, fixed.
Terrible job prior owner did with positive cable, rewired fixed.
CPS caused the engine to intermittently run blind and loss of power, fixed.

And now finally the hot start and intermittent idle issue.. Fixed.

I'm tired