froze motor

[buell-eyed-devil]

I recently acquired a nice little 5.0 or so I thought. pulled oil pan and heads and motor will not turn over. Spark plugs were left out so naturally got water in cylinders and rust. I know it at least will need honing and rings, but what is a safe way to break it lose without damage. I have cylinders full of diesel right now

 

[19Walt93]

Diesel might do it, I like Cyclo Breakaway penetrating oil. I'd just tear it down and see what you have before investing too much time in it.

 

[buell-eyed-devil]

Diesel might do it, I like Cyclo Breakaway penetrating oil. I'd just tear it down and see what you have before investing too much time in it.

sadly it was rebuilt before I got it

 

[racsan]

ouch. Ive read that automatic transmission fluid will sometimes help but diesel seems like a good choice too.

 

[snoranger]

I used a 50/50 mix of ATF and Marvel Mystery Oil on a dirt bike engine once... it worked pretty good.
We also found Winzer chain lube works pretty good at getting rusty stuff apart, better than that crappy Liquid Wrench parts depth loves to buy.

 

[19Walt93]

sadly it was rebuilt before I got it

Rebuilt means different things to different people, I'd tear it down. I worked on a "rebuilt" engine and found sludge in the pan and oil pump pickup, a badly worn crank, and Ford bearings. No one rebuilds an engine with Ford bearings because they aren't sold in sets, you'd buy 16 rod bearing inserts and individual main bearings, it would cost many times what a set of Clevites would go for. My old boss bought a 429 SCJ Mustang from a guy who fancied himself a "collector", he said the engine was "rebuilt" but we tore it down to inspect it because it's the only original 429 SCJ that car will ever have. The cam was warped and would bind when you tried to rotate it and the block was so worn we had to have it bored and replace the pistons.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

A new "tight" engine will seize easier/tighter than a wore out engine too...

Don't get in a hurry soaking it and remember the whole piston needs to soak, not just the bottoms. Being in a V rather than an inline that complicates breaking loose a V6/8.

We use brake fluid and diesel here, pretty common thing with older tractors. Everybody has their own recipe...

Here a "froze" motor is a whole different ball of wax. It makes repair much easier, basically you throw the engine away and find another... hopefully your engine hasn't truley "froze" (like had water in it that froze probably breaking the bores)

 

[Blmpkn]

If its that stuck it might need more than just a hone..

 

[buell-eyed-devil]

Rebuilt means different things to different people, I'd tear it down. I worked on a "rebuilt" engine and found sludge in the pan and oil pump pickup, a badly worn crank, and Ford bearings. No one rebuilds an engine with Ford bearings because they aren't sold in sets, you'd buy 16 rod bearing inserts and individual main bearings, it would cost many times what a set of Clevites would go for. My old boss bought a 429 SCJ Mustang from a guy who fancied himself a "collector", he said the engine was "rebuilt" but we tore it down to inspect it because it's the only original 429 SCJ that car will ever have. The cam was warped and would bind when you tried to rotate it and the block was so worn we had to have it bored and replace the pistons.

yeah rebuilt here is iffy as well

 

[buell-eyed-devil]

ok. So it looks like a rebuild. its a 92 F150 block. I got a set of GT40 heads and an edelbrock performer intake. Any suggestions on camshaft? Its a roller block may as well go roller

 

[buell-eyed-devil]

A new "tight" engine will seize easier/tighter than a wore out engine too...

Don't get in a hurry soaking it and remember the whole piston needs to soak, not just the bottoms. Being in a V rather than an inline that complicates breaking loose a V6/8.

We use brake fluid and diesel here, pretty common thing with older tractors. Everybody has their own recipe...

Here a "froze" motor is a whole different ball of wax. It makes repair much easier, basically you throw the engine away and find another... hopefully your engine hasn't truley "froze" (like had water in it that froze probably breaking the bores)

I live in central Florida so frozen is highly unlikely. Mainly rust

 

[19Walt93]

ok. So it looks like a rebuild. its a 92 F150 block. I got a set of GT40 heads and an edelbrock performer intake. Any suggestions on camshaft? Its a roller block may as well go roller

Cam choice is important: how are you going to use it? What rear gears and transmission? What's your target RPM range- be honest and conservative- if you pick a cam slightly too small you'll be happier than one slightly too big. Is a rump-rump idle something you want? I reused the stock 95 F150 351 cam in my truck and it's too small power wise but I got 16 mpg all summer and it runs good. I personally like Comp and Lunati pretty well and wouldn't use a Crane cam on a bet.

 

[buell-eyed-devil]

Cam choice is important: how are you going to use it? What rear gears and transmission? What's your target RPM range- be honest and conservative- if you pick a cam slightly too small you'll be happier than one slightly too big. Is a rump-rump idle something you want? I reused the stock 95 F150 351 cam in my truck and it's too small power wise but I got 16 mpg all summer and it runs good. I personally like Comp and Lunati pretty well and wouldn't use a Crane cam on a bet.

it will be hooked up to a c4 with a shift kit and a 2200 rpm stall converter. Blockhugger headers and 2.5 exhaust. probably run 33" tires

 

[19Walt93]

Ford Performance M6250-E303 should work good and the idle will impress the kids at a car show.

 

[buell-eyed-devil]

had a cam given to me years ago. behing gear it has a row of xs with ZE stamped on it. box says M 6250 e303. supposedly not the cam in the box but I have no idea. Anybody know what I may have or how to measure it?