front wheel drive

[RonD]

Yes, in 4WD, but in 2WD the front chain and gear on output shaft are disconnected from output shaft, but they would spin when flat towing because front wheels are on the ground and hubs are locked full time

Concern is that where the chain's gear rides on output shaft would be dry if oil pump is not active
If flat towing with rear drive shaft connected and transfer case in Neutral, the oil pump would be working as the rear drive shaft is turning output shaft which turns the oil pump

 

[racsan]

Ok, my mistake, I thought his concern regarding oil pump on rear output was during driving off of front axle, which he would have to be in 4wd to do, rear output would still turn without a driveshaft (unless something was seriously wrong) -and im not sure it could even be driveable at all at that point.

 

[4x4junkie]

Yet another option might be to convert your front spindles to the '98-'00 setup, and then slap a set of manual locking hubs on it. This would allow flat towing with the rear driveshaft disconnected, and the front hubs unlocked.

'85_Ranger's suggestion of a manual t-case swap certainly is the best, most practical idea, though manual cases for the '98+ trucks are exceptionally hard to find and are highly sought after. They were only used under '02-'03 FX4 trucks that came with the Torsen rear limited slip axle and manual transmission (earlier manual cases have an incompatible front driveshaft yoke. You could use one if you swap your front driveshaft, though I don't know off hand whether a stock front shaft from an earlier truck would fit with your SLA IFS axle).

 

[don4331]

For those who haven't been under a Ranger (or haven't been under lately). 99% of BW1350/54 transfer cases have a companion flange on the rear output shaft. So, you don't need to worry about cover plates.

https://www.northerndrivetrain.com/images/products/ndt-00193.jpg

The oil pump for the BW1350/54 is on the rear output of the transfer case, so if the shaft isn't turning the shaft would be oil starved. There is no good setting - 2wd has transfer case bearing dry/4wd would have the transmission output turning without gears generating splash lubrication...

Personally, I just undo the rear flange on rear axle and front u-joint of front axle. I also pull the ignition tumbler, so I don't do something stupid like try to drive it with axles disconnected.

Mark the u-joint yoke and companion flanges, (so you can reinstall the driveshaft in same position it was removed from; nice florescent nail polish works well); then separate the driveshaft and wire it up to the frame. Ideally, you have a spare u-joint yoke that you bolt on to the rear axle - prevents road grime and oxidation of the companion flange, making re-install easier. For the front, a couple spare u-joint cups that you bolt into the front axle. The spare u-joint/companion flange has advantage that you know where the bolts are when you reinstall the driveshaft.

Note 1: The manual shift BW1354 in a '93-97 Ranger* or '91-03 Explorer can be installed in OP's '01 Ranger. You might need to swap some shafts to get the exact outputs you want, but the case and 95% of the internal guts are common across all years. The BW1350 has different front output, so out of contention for this exercise.

*Manual BW1354s might be available 'pre '93 but I see more BW1350s in that vintage Ranger/Bronco IIs.

Note 2: If you are swapping to '98-'00 front, you need to swap hubs, axles and spindles to get manual locking hubs.

 

[4x4junkie]

All that marking flanges, removing & tying up driveshafts, and attaching spare parts to flanges and yokes seems like a lot more work than simply pulling the shift motor and putting the case in neutral Did I miss something?

 

[don4331]

Pulling shift motor, and putting case in neutral leaves transfer case open for road grime to get inside - you can't reinstall the shift motor with transfer case in neutral, so you have to tie it up anyways.

Reinstalling the driveshafts has been a lot less hassle than reinstalling shift motor - I don't need worry about steel flanges stripping on the axles versus the magnesium alloy of the transfer case, so I can use power tools.

Just depends how far the Ranger is being flat towed.

 

[bobbywalter]

Pulling shift motor, and putting case in neutral leaves transfer case open for road grime to get inside - you can't reinstall the shift motor with transfer case in neutral, so you have to tie it up anyways.

Reinstalling the driveshafts has been a lot less hassle than reinstalling shift motor - I don't need worry about steel flanges stripping on the axles versus the magnesium alloy of the transfer case, so I can use power tools.

Just depends how far the Ranger is being flat towed.

Yeah....I just leave it running in neutral for short trips. Cars too.

 

[4x4junkie]

Pulling shift motor, and putting case in neutral leaves transfer case open for road grime to get inside - you can't reinstall the shift motor with transfer case in neutral, so you have to tie it up anyways.

Reinstalling the driveshafts has been a lot less hassle than reinstalling shift motor - I don't need worry about steel flanges stripping on the axles versus the magnesium alloy of the transfer case, so I can use power tools.

Just depends how far the Ranger is being flat towed.

The shaft is sealed where it comes out through the case. Grime is not going to get inside if the motor is removed.

Your point about the aluminum case has some validity, though you should not need power tools for it (it's four 6mm bolts holding it on, and a 2001 truck shouldn't have the electro clutch wire that's a PITA to deal with).