Front Wheel Bearings Install


ford4wd08

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Hi all,

I'm putting new inner and outer wheels bearings on my BII D28 front axle.

I've been taught a few different ways when setting the preload of the roller taper bearings.

I thought I would ask the forum what the proper way to install the bearings; what torques to go to etc.
 


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Josh B

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Some seem to be able to just feel it, and some take awhile (some a very long while) to learn it. I tighten mine down after packing them full of grease as far as they will easily go, I mean kinda snug it up good but not really force it(this while you're constantly turning the wheel in the same direction). Then back it off( not a lot really, but completely released of torque on the adjusting nut) carefully as to not disturb the bearings position, and last finger tight it. If the lock pin isn't lined up with slot tighten to next slot

Make sure you're using the correct grease
As for torque numbers I'd suggest checking your specific manual for that
 

ford4wd08

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Some seem to be able to just feel it, and some take awhile (some a very long while) to learn it. I tighten mine down after packing them full of grease as far as they will easily go, I mean kinda snug it up good but not really force it(this while you're constantly turning the wheel in the same direction). Then back it off( not a lot really, but completely released of torque on the adjusting nut) carefully as to not disturb the bearings position, and last finger tight it. If the lock pin isn't lined up with slot tighten to next slot

Make sure you're using the correct grease
I've been taught or read that is should be more than finger tight.... That's why I wanted to start this discussion.

I believe your method, I'm just curious if there is a shop manual that specifies torques or a procedure.

Also, what is the correct grease? I have a bearing grease fixture that you use with a grease gun, but some seem to think it is not as good as using your palm to pack the grease.

Just trying to get a feel for what the forum consensus is......
 
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alwaysFlOoReD

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I do what JoshB describes, but IIRC, the final torque number is 21 INCH/lbs.
 

Josh B

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I've used those packers, they seemed ok to me. Those instruction I've given are actually straight from the Ford repair manual for my truck.
I'm not positive if the torque specs would be the same on different models but
Well, I was going to look up as best I could but for 93-94 and Dana 28 this is what it said
Front Wheel Bearing

The front wheel bearing and hub assembly is not adjustable. If service is required, refer to Hub and Bearing in Removal and Installation procedures in this section.
 

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Check the torque specs at the front of the chapter.
 

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Best way to do it depends on if you have auto or manual hubs, because the bearing hardware is different between them.

In general I will get the bearings packed, throw the rotors up on the truck, get the rotors retained loosely, and then put a wheel on with at least 3 lugs and set the final load that way so I can check bearing play correctly as I go. Always keep that wheel spinning too.


If you have manual hubs the inner nut torque spec is very low, 15-20 inch lbs or so. Much tighter will put a whine in the bearings. The outer retaining nut needs to be as tight as you can get it.
 

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Best way to do it depends on if you have auto or manual hubs, because the bearing hardware is different between them.

In general I will get the bearings packed, throw the rotors up on the truck, get the rotors retained loosely, and then put a wheel on with at least 3 lugs and set the final load that way so I can check bearing play correctly as I go. Always keep that wheel spinning too.


If you have manual hubs the inner nut torque spec is very low, 15-20 inch lbs or so. Much tighter will put a whine in the bearings. The outer retaining nut needs to be as tight as you can get it.
I forgot to mention that I have manual hubs.
 

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I forgot to mention that I have manual hubs.
Ok, so with the wheel on take the inner nut tight enough to take the play out of the bearing, and then make the smallest adjustment possible (tighter or looser) to get the center lock washer in place. Then make the outer nut as tight as you can. I don't even torque them anymore, just tighten them until the socket teeth won't hold in the grooves.
 

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Ok, so with the wheel on take the inner nut tight enough to take the play out of the bearing, and then make the smallest adjustment possible (tighter or looser) to get the center lock washer in place. Then make the outer nut as tight as you can. I don't even torque them anymore, just tighten them until the socket teeth won't hold in the grooves.
Thanks for the info. I'll try to get it done this weekend.
 

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Spec for the bearing nut (preload) is 15 inch-lbs. It's not much more than "finger tight".

How I do it:
Tighten (inner) bearing nut to 35 foot-lbs while spinning rotor back & forth (this seats the bearings and distributes the grease).
Loosen nut, then retighten it to 15 inch-lbs.

If manual hubs,
Install locking washer and outer nut, tighten outer nut to 225 foot-lbs.

If auto hubs,
Insert lock key to hold nut in place.

Install the locking hub (and any remaining auto hub hardware, if applicable), and finally the wheel & tire.


Ok, so with the wheel on take the inner nut tight enough to take the play out of the bearing, and then make the smallest adjustment possible (tighter or looser) to get the center lock washer in place. Then make the outer nut as tight as you can. I don't even torque them anymore, just tighten them until the socket teeth won't hold in the grooves.
Flip the washer over if the pin doesn't line up. That way you shouldn't have to tighten or loosen the nut any.
 

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Thank you all for the info, I appreciate it!

What grease is everyone using for wheel bearings??
 

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I use any old red or blue high temp grease... make sure you wash out whatever is in there, certain greases are not compatible with each other.

My process is basically tighten the inner nut so that it's very snug, spin the rotor, back nut off 1/8-1/4 turn or wherever the washer lines up at. Then the outer as tight as possible. I only torque new bearings. Used bearings are often FAR too loose at the published torque specs so I just go by feel on those. The rotor should have just a little resistance when turning by hand after it's all assembled.

While it's apart, it's a good time to clean and repack the spindle bearing too, and check the seal on the axle shaft - usually they've crumbled away into dust by now.
 

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I use some red tackky stuff from Advance or O'Reilly
 


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