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Front rotors: replace or not replace when replacing bearings?

Eddo Rogue

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My credo
Crossed threads are tight threads.
So, "quality bearings." One can assume Timken. I've used heavy duty roller and taper bearings made by Timken, SKF, and National. Can't seem to notice any difference, but these are slow turning devices, although under heavy load. Find that proper lubrication is the key with them (some pumpers actually understand that. Just love getting a wrist pin in that has caked old grease with just a bit of fresh as though that was going to fix it.)

However, for wheel bearings, I see also BCA, Centric, FAG and Mevotech brands. Plus whatever 'store' brands one might find locally. Has anyone have experience with these other brands?
FAG!? Who decided to make that their brand name? And how did they get away with it?
 


Eddo Rogue

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Crossed threads are tight threads.
Not matching bearings to races is racist.
 

ekrampitzjr

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When I replaced the front bearings last year, I actually bent a pin punch trying to get the outer races out. They never budged. A press would have been necessary. Finally gave up and bought new NAPA rotors that included the outer races. That's what I'll do in the future.

One thing I didn't do that I should have was to go back after, say, 1,000 miles and check the bearing tightness. They were tight enough after I finished last year, but as they wore in, they loosened a bit. Had a bit of cupping on the front tires because of this. The amount I needed to tweak the bearing nuts to eliminate the looseness was tiny, just about 30° max.

My opinion is simply use good new rotors when you change the bearings. This is one area where you don't want the lowest price. Also use the best grease you can find—I used Red Line CV-2—and make sure every trace of the old grease is gone.
 

oldgeek

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FAG!? Who decided to make that their brand name? And how did they get away with it?
Maybe the started with cigarettes? Or bundles of sticks?
 

oldgeek

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When I replaced the front bearings last year, I actually bent a pin punch trying to get the outer races out. They never budged. A press would have been necessary.
If one doesn't have a choice in the matter, welding a bead around the race will cause it to shrink.
 

Chapap

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My rotors looked original, so not a direct comparison... but I'm sure glad I had new rotors ready to go when I did my bearings. Post # 3902 & 3913
 

Uncle Gump

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I use to use FAG bearing at the VW shop... they were top quality. I think it's a German company.
 

don4331

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FAG!? Who decided to make that their brand name? And how did they get away with it?
It's a German acronym Fischer's Automatische Gussstahlkugelfabrik (FAG) or Friedrich Fischer's Automatic Steel Ball Factory. It dates back over 115 years.
 

Jazzer

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The heavier the punch you use, the easier it is to remove/install races. I have a ring sizer I use, a 12” length of 1/2” diameter tool steel would work as well. I tap at 12-2-4-6-8-10-12 o’clock until the race is out.
I use the old race to start the new race in (same tapping method, without the punch) until it’s down in, then the punch to finish it off. You can hear when the race seats by the sound changing to a “tinking”.
You just have to be careful to not let the punch contact the wear surface of the race.

-Jazzer
 

Eddo Rogue

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skyjacker front leveling kit
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My credo
Crossed threads are tight threads.
+1 gotta spread the tapping around, little at a time. This is why the press works so much better, it pushes all around evenly at once.
 

Eddo Rogue

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Ranger 4x4
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4.0 V6
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OHV
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4WD
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skyjacker front leveling kit
Tire Size
31-10.50R15
My credo
Crossed threads are tight threads.
It's a German acronym Fischer's Automatische Gussstahlkugelfabrik (FAG) or Friedrich Fischer's Automatic Steel Ball Factory. It dates back over 115 years.
Still Hilarious. And probably offensive to liberals.
 

don4331

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Still Hilarious. And probably offensive to liberals.
You should have been part of the Mech Eng class that was presented the short film: FAG: Balls of Steel, as part of the machine design class.
 

ekrampitzjr

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The heavier the punch you use, the easier it is to remove/install races. I have a ring sizer I use, a 12” length of 1/2” diameter tool steel would work as well. I tap at 12-2-4-6-8-10-12 o’clock until the race is out.
I use the old race to start the new race in (same tapping method, without the punch) until it’s down in, then the punch to finish it off. You can hear when the race seats by the sound changing to a “tinking”.
You just have to be careful to not let the punch contact the wear surface of the race.

-Jazzer
That's exactly what I was doing. Have removed outer races on other vehicles before, including an old F-100. Never had one give me the kind of trouble the ones on the Ranger did. :LOL:
 

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