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Front end keeps blowing up!


94on35zz

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Soo Ok its not blowing up but My passengerside front axel nut keeps loosening up and smokeing the bearings.. Im not shure what to do. The truck does sit on 35's and I do offroad but its extremely mild offroading.. I dont hammer on the truck.. I already reaplaced the innner and outer bearings on that side with timkin's. I thought they were good and not junk.. what do I do!! is there something else wrong that I dont know about.. And also 90% of the time.. the front end is unlocked. I have Warn hubs on it..
 


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fordman49450

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if you have manual hubs are you sure you are using the proper lock nuts? the inner one should go on and set the bearing preload and have the pin facing outward. then the lock washer goes on and the pin will go through one of the many holes on washer. then tighten up the outer nut to the lock washer. when I first got my ranger someone had used bother inner nuts with the pin on one side and the other side didnt have one to keep the inner nut from loosening up. I have also seen the pin smashed because someone didnt install it correctly either. If it has auto hubs then make sure that the keeper that goes in the keyway of the spindle is put back in after installing the nut.
 

Evan

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Torque your outer locknut down to 250 ft. lbs. You'll probably need a special torque wrench for this, as most only go up to 150. I also clean the outer locknut and spindle off, and apply RED Locktite.

Make sure your inner locknut is set up correctly, i.e. the bearing preload. I like to set mine a little on the tight side. I have put quite a few miles on my bearings now with no problems.
 

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It also helps to really clean up the spindle nuts to remove all grease from them so that they have as much friction as possible between them.

Even good bearings like timkins cant stand up to being loose.
 

94on35zz

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Alright Im gonna try your guys suggestions tommoarw.. clean the spindle nuts and repack and use red loctite... :)
 

Evan

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Alright Im gonna try your guys suggestions tommoarw.. clean the spindle nuts and repack and use red loctite... :)

And tighten the hell (250) out of that outer....
 

Ranger44

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Not to insult your intellegence, but you are seating the bearing correctly with the inner lock nut? Right?
 

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I've always just cranked mine down nearly as tight as I can (around 200Ft/lbs I'd say) without a torque wrench since the socket I have isn't made to accept any kind of ratchet or breaker bar. I've never had a problem with mine.
 

94on35zz

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Not to insult your intellegence, but you are seating the bearing correctly with the inner lock nut? Right?
Yea u crank it in 80+ or so foot pounds then back it out to like 40-50.. then u crank the outer one behind that like 130 or soo.. but these guys are saying just crank it to hell.. im a 240lb kid i can tighten it if i want too lol
 

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The inner nut should be about 16 or so INCH lbs when its torqued finally....40 or 50 ft lbs will toast the bearings.
 

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Instructions for Warn Hubs Spindle Nut Kit directly off the install sheet (with a few tips added)...

1. Install the inner bearing nut and torque the nut to 35 ft/lbs while rotating the front disc hub back and forth to seat the bearing. Note: The inner nut has a pin or post protruding on one side. The pin is to index into the lockwasher.
(And of course should be facing outward)
2. Back the inner bearing nut off 90 degrees (1/4 turn).
(Torque down to 16 Inch/lbs to ensure its not backed off too far)
3. Install the lockwasher so the key is positioned in the groove of the front spindle. Tighten the inner bearing nut, aligning the pin into the nearest lockwasher hole. Note: The lockwasher hole pattern is offset with the keyway to provide half-position setting by flipping the washer over to obtain closest hole.
4. Install the outer bearing nut and tighten to 85 to 135 ft/lbs using the spanner locknut wrench/socket.
(The outer nut tends to back off, soo do like everyone said and torque it down to 200-250 ft/lbs, especially with those 35s. Also, make sure not to turn the inner nut as you torque down the outer nut. Its good to have a second hand to position a screw driver in one of the splines of the inner nut as to hold it from turning.)

Timkins and National bearings are good, but stay away from the cheap ones. Be sure also that you are replacing the races too with the bearings or your wasting your time as they will end up failing too. Ohh, and did I mention to use some good grease? Valvoline synthetic grease seems to work well for me. Good luck...
 

Ranger44

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That's what I thought, 35ft/lbs to seat it, back it off, then 16 IN/ LBS. This is the same for auto hubs.
 

Will

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Don't do that initial 35# just once. Spin the rotor and retorque it several times to make sure all of the grease comes out between the rollers and race. Otherwise the bearing will come loose.
 

cooljman1

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alls I have to say is good luck. I have had that fight with my truck for a long time I am now finaly working on putting D44 outters on the D35 axle. search around there is a far amount of info on the subject.
 

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Almost 4 years and 10,000 miles on mine with 35s and no problems (on used bearings too).

Proper setup is critical on these things, but it is very possible to not have problems with it.

(I do basically as stated above... 35ft-lbs, back off & retighten to 15 inch-lbs, although I torque the outer nut to 225 or so. I'm not sure red loctite is a good idea though, you'll eventually need to disassemble it again at some point, and may not have a torch handy).

Also, don't ever use moly grease on the bearings, that will eat up the rollers. Just use a good high quality lithium-base wheelbearing grease.
 
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