Front brakes on 94 RWD

[oldgeek]

Hi.
So, the front brakes need worked over. Need to replace the rotors, so I thought I'd replace everything. I don't drive the truck that much. I'm looking at Rockauto to order parts. Many brands there. I have heard of some of these brands, but really have no experience with them. I assume if I get parts from Raybestos, Bendix, or Centric they should be okay as they are names I have heard of for a long time. But others, like
Durago, Quality-Built or Dynamic Friction I have not heard of.

Another thing is that I see the rotors come with hubs that have bearing races installed. So, if I figure I might as well replace the bearings too. What should I expect when removing that inner bearing? I know sometimes it is hard to get a puller behind a bearing.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Ii drive the races out with a long pin punch and hammer.

Parts these days are a complete crapshoot. The last wheel bearings i bought were timken.

 

[Jazzer]

I suppose you mean races, as the bearings come out loosely.

I use a heavy punch to knock out the supplied inner races from the opposite side, working in a 12-3-6-9-12 o-clock pattern, tapping a little at a time as I feel the race move.

I set the new one in place and use the old race to start the new one in, stopping before the old one gets caught.

Then the same pattern with the punch until the 'tink' sound all around tells me the race is fully seated.

 

[oldgeek]

So the bearings have a little clearance on the shaft. That is good to know. So, I assume to assemble the bearings in the hub with the seal installed and then slide the hub on the spindle?

 

[racsan]

yes. ‘94 2wd brakes/bearings are dirt simple. Rather have that setup than the hub/unit bearing. Pack with grease, tap the seal in then slide on the spindle. Tighten nut while turning rotor to preload bearings then back off to nearest cotter pin hole.

 

[Bill]

Most rotors come with new races. It isn't necessary to remove them. I've used new bearings in with the races in new rotors and never had a problem. I just replaced Centric Premium rotors on mine with another set of Centric after about 110,000 miles on them. Their semi-metallic brake pads also lasted 110,000 miles, but those brake pads generate a lot of dust. I opted for Power Stop ceramic pads this time. Timken bearings are probably the most popular, but National and SKF are fine. I see Rockauto has Motorcraft rotors if you are willing to spend about $10 more per rotor. I was going to order Motorcraft rotors but opted for Centric because the Centric warehouse they shipped from is 45 miles from me and it cost $10 to ship both rotors whereas it would have cost me $20 for shipping the Motorcraft rotors. If you order a lot of stuff from Rockauto you will quickly learn that there is a little bit of a game to play regarding shipping charges. Bendex, Wagner, Bosch, Raybestos are also good options. Just avoid the "economy" line these, or any brands carry and you should be fine.

 

[Blmpkn]

Been wondering where you went.. welcome back!