Front Brake Job Question

[alllw88]

Hi all, I am going to replace the front rotors and pads on my 88 Bronco ll 4x4 ASAP. The left side rotor is too close to the minimum thickness limit, probably the right too, and the right rotor has a crack on the outer surface. (edge towards the hub)

I have never worked on these types of Ford brakes and have a few ???

First how do I remove the caliper pins...it looks to be the split shell type.
Do I need any special tools to get the rotors off since it has a lot of parts to remove there.

Also when I removed the right rear tire off to fix a fix I noticed that the axle had some play. I could pull it in-out about .100". I didn't measure this play but is there suppose to be any play?

Thanks for your help

Al

 

[brendank]

The caliper pins tap out with a hammer. I usually pound them flush, and then just use a large standard screw driver from there. Twist the screw driver so it doesn't mess up the rubber inside of the pins.

I would also suggest changing the pins when you do the brake job. They're cheap, and if the rubber in the inside gets compressed, you'll hear it click when you stop.

That play is normal on a c-clip axle. As long as it's a small amount of in-out play, not up-down play.

 

[Sunk]

To get the rotors off, you'll need a hub socket. Im not sure which one, but you can find them at a parts store.

 

[alllw88]

Thanks for your help guys....

I have a Chilton's manual to guide me, not very detailed but better than nothing to go on. So that caliper pin is made out of rubber, thought it was a metal bolt, now I understand how it works. OK , gonna replace those pins too $15 for 2 front wheels.

Hub socket I don't have, would a pair of big channel locks work? Socket gonna cost about $20. Let me see if I even have room in my tool box for this .

I'll also buy the rear brake shoes even though they look ok. I did notice that the rear shoe auto adjusting lever didn't look like the ones on my 1966 Mustang. Didn't look like the pictures in the Chilton manual too. Can't see how it even could works. I'll look into this after I start the brake job.

Ok , thanks again and wish me luck. That what I'll be doing this Sat.

Al

 

[brendank]

The pins should be metal on the outside with a rubber inside. You'll need the hub socket, and a torque wrench too. Channel locks won't work.

I'd suggest buying an entire kit for the back. The adjusters tend to seize up over time and then they quit working properly. Trust me, rear brake problems aren't something that you'll want to deal with. Also, make sure you don't get the primary and secondary pads mixed around in the back. Yes, they're different.

 

[alllw88]

Well I finished doing the front brakes ... was easy after all. Took me longer to clean everything than reinstalling. Hammer and screw driver got the Caliper pins out. Hammer and 2 screw drivers got the C-clip out...where that fly off too. Took awhile before I figured out how the Cam assembly comes out. The wheel bearing adjusting nut came off with my big Channel Lock pliers... fit in there just right. Yes I know to do the job right I do need that hub socket and my torque wrench to adjust it. Reinstall greased bearings and new seals on new rotors, then reassemble the hub parts. That Cam assembly was hard to install, is it because they are "spring" loaded? New pads installed...only used the anti-rattle clips that came with the Caliper Pin Kit. There was 2 thin metal plates that was installed between the caliper piston and inner pad that I didnt reuse off the old brakes.

The rear drums came off real easy. The rear brake shoes had the same thickness as the new shoes I had bought. I didn't see much brake dust too. The adjusting lever looked correct on the left side but different on the right. No wonder why the old pads were paper thin...bonded pads. It was already midnite as I started after dinner and I needed this truck the next day as my other 2 cars were not running. I button up the rear and test drove the truck. What a different. Gonna have to work on the rears another day when I get the rear hardware kit.

I know that these auto-adjusters work when you are backing up the car and applying your brakes. But I hardly ever have to backup. How do you guys do the initial adjustment on these rear brakes? Lock the wheels then back off so many turns?

I think I can afford that hub socket after all. Garage wanted $500 just to do the front brakes. Pads only, other parts extra. So I spend less than $200 on parts now. The bad part is it cost well over that when my sister took it in for a brake job 5 years ago and I think they cheated her on "new" parts.

Oh well. Thanks for your help guys

Al

 

[Ranger5.0]

buy the hubsocket, do it right. If you dont get the bearing set up properly, you will be replacing them again. Its cheep insurence. I usualy never depend on my auto adjusters to work, i jack up the rear so both tires are off the ground, put it in neutral, and use an adjuster tool Or a wide tip standard screwdriver to slowly turn the adjuster out untill i feel a drag on the wheel, do the other side so they both "feel" the same and call it done. Every now and then you can try backing up and pushing the breaks down till its stops, repeat this 3 times and you should start to feel a difference.

 

[AllanD]

To properly adjust rear brakes manually adjust them until you can
just BARELY feel the drag.

BTW, I always prefer bonded pads, rivets can make nasty grooves in rotors and won't wear as thin as bonded before they start to fall apart.

The first rule of brake system parts:
If in ANY doubt toss it.

IT's cheaper to toss a part only worth a couple of bucks
than to pay the body shop to fix your truck AND pay the increased insurance rates after the accident that creates
the need to see the body man.

as for the rear shoes? if they aren't worn (but ARE working)
leave them alone, you COULD make things worse by incorrectly assembling something.

AD