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Front Bearing Adjustment 4X4

Josh B

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I can never seem to get my front bearings adjusted properly. I put a pre-load on them and tighten them down as much as possible, then back them off to the first notch, then put the locking key in it But every time I go back and check them they will be floppy as hell ??

Any suggestions? (besides call a mechanic)
 


RonD

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I assume inner and outer bearings and races are new?

I would start there if not

Spin the wheel when you pre-load

Sounds like you are doing it correctly, so a hardware issue most likely
 

Josh B

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Right, I put inner and outer bearings and races new maybe one month ago

Also this is the Auto Locking Hubs
 

RonD

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Auto lock/unlock part is a separate systems

And the races got pushed down all the way when installed?
Only thing that comes to mind is a race is not seated all the way
 

Josh B

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Auto lock/unlock part is a separate systems

And the races got pushed down all the way when installed?
Only thing that comes to mind is a race is not seated all the way
They are all fully seated with a dead blow. I went ahead and did what I could get done and left the bearings alone for now. I may tear em down later and see if I can move that cog another notch but I really don't think it will, and if it does I'm wondering if it won't be too tight,

I appreciate your input on it Ron
 

ericbphoto

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What size tires are you running?
 

Josh B

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P235/75R/15 , it came with P265. What I found on internet tire size calculators is a 7% difference in revs per mile which in mile marker checks proved to be spot on. I also found in calculating MPG an increase that averages 21/22 current MPG (including the 7% adjustments) after getting 18/19 with the 265 tires it had
 

ericbphoto

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My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
P235/75R/15 , it came with P265. What I found on internet tire size calculators is a 7% difference in revs per mile which in mile marker checks proved to be spot on. I also found in calculating MPG an increase that averages 21/22 current MPG (including the 7% adjustments) after getting 18/19 with the 265 tires it had
Ok. Sometimes, if running big tires, it takes little extra preload. But that size should be fine with the normal procedure.

It may be good to disassemble them again and make sure the spindles are smooth. No burrs or ridges for the bearings to hang up on.
 

Josh B

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I got thinking, that spindle is about the only thing I haven't replaced.
 

Josh B

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I think it's right down to that, and I might likely be going wrong in my final torque. After recalling the manuals sometimes give a pointer here and there I dug one out and while reading through the details reviewed the torque specs and decided my best move might well be an Inch torque wrench and a large socket. May find the socket at a pawn shop and might have to settle for wmart torque wrench, but I'm thinking that might be the next move to make.
Thanks Ron and Eric for your support, I wouldn't have gotten this far without your help
 

Josh B

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I am a ways out from being able to do anything major, but will try to rent those wrenches.
What i did do was took it down to the adjustment and tightened it one notch on both sides, which did some slack removal but not a considerable amount.
The next day I went to go one more notch and got the passenger side done, or almost done, before it started pouring rain. I wound up covering the passenger side with a large trash bag and just putting the drivers wheel back on. The next day I managed to get the passenger side back together between showers, but really haven't checked it yet, just hoping it isn't too tight to make it overheat, but even so,
with the wheel on it still has some play top to bottom? (I got it adjusted to the second notch in on the passenger side)

So.. I was just looking at an article here https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/dana-35-28-spindle-bearings/ that has a diagram near the bottom for the 35

Could the Spindle bearings be the cause of the tire still having play top to bottom?

If so, how far would best be gone in doing some maintenance on that. I have seen the spring clip exchange that would be a good idea to get done.
 

ericbphoto

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My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
The spindle bearings only support and center the axle shift withing the spindle. They have nothing to do with supporting the wheel. The axle shaft and spindle bearings can be completely removed and the wheel would stay on with no problems at all
 

Josh B

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I see, thanks for your reply Eric
 

SenorNoob

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This might be a stupid question. But are you sure it's not ball joints?
 

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