From Computer to Carburetor.. How to Empty an Engine Bay????


19Walt93

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My truck had been someone's drag vehicle so most of the ABS was missing. I ditched the module and wiring along with a lot of other unwanted stuff and plumbed the brake system with an adjustable proportioning valve in case I need to reduce rear braking. I hate ABS, it's supposed to stop faster on dry pavement but on a snow covered road it doesn't stop at all. One of my former service advisors called them anti stop brakes and he was right.
 


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adsm08

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Re: speedometer : is that on a seperate mechanical cable?
No. It's electric, runs off a signal sent from the ABS module, generated by data collected from the rear axle speed sensor.
 

bobbywalter

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you can convert the speedo to mechanical though....93-94 dash dealio with aftermarket gauging or stock....




as to the abs...just unplug it.


rework the plug to manually control the brakes.


at one point my truck had an electric and mechanical speedo.

i have a rangerish dash with ranger speedo....gm gauging...and glow plug and wif light.
 

RonD

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Not sure why you would convert to a 1995 dash to speedo cable though?
If you are going computerless then your trans should be old enough to have the speedometer drive gear and hole, so you can use VSS in that hole
But yes 2 more wires to cab
 

bobbywalter

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Not sure why you would convert to a 1995 dash to speedo cable though?
If you are going computerless then your trans should be old enough to have the speedometer drive gear and hole, so you can use VSS in that hole
But yes 2 more wires to cab


its option. given the context of the title and intent.


when doing custom gauges i prefer all electric...speedo as well.


some prefer all mechanical.
 

smilinjack

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My toploader does have the speedo connection. What do you mean by "rework" the plug?
 

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Hello, it's me again. Got a feeling I'll be lookin for a lot of advice during this build of mine! And I will appreciate all your advise(s) and your patience
as I roll. This certainly is my biggest project ever even tho I've been an avid drag racer and engine builder for well over 50 years! So, that being said
my next question is on the abs brake delete. I've stripped the engine bay of all except the steering and brakes. So I'm lookin at what surely is the abs pump
sitting atop the distribution block and wondering : if I removed the pump from the d block is there any way to plumb the master cylinder to the existing
d block? And, when I switch out the axle with my level2 is there a pipe thread where the abs sensor goes? Thanks
 

adsm08

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Hello, it's me again. Got a feeling I'll be lookin for a lot of advice during this build of mine! And I will appreciate all your advise(s) and your patience
as I roll. This certainly is my biggest project ever even tho I've been an avid drag racer and engine builder for well over 50 years! So, that being said
my next question is on the abs brake delete. I've stripped the engine bay of all except the steering and brakes. So I'm lookin at what surely is the abs pump
sitting atop the distribution block and wondering : if I removed the pump from the d block is there any way to plumb the master cylinder to the existing
d block? And, when I switch out the axle with my level2 is there a pipe thread where the abs sensor goes? Thanks
1:I believe removing the pump will open the hydraulic system, that makes it hard to bleed. I'd either leave the pump attached to the hydraulic block, or remove the ABS completely and run new lines.

2: No, there is no pipe thread where the sensor goes. The sensor sticks through an open hole, sealed by an o-ring, and retained by an M6 bolt through a tab to the side. Leave the sensor in so the diff isn't open, and just don't put any wires to it.
 

smilinjack

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Thanks, think I'll take a look around and see if I can scrounge up a non abs setup for a reasonable price. If not I'll just leave it disconnected.
 

bobbywalter

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...leave it in place or redo the lines.....if you need new lines its no big deal. but if you add another channel to the rear...having individual control of each wheel for braking is really useful in certain situations.


rework the plug...i mean tap it to make it manually controllable....i found some pictures from 2002 on cd....not sure if it will help. i was prototyping a newer plugnplay system.

i ended up with a hand held remote version....made about 35-40 of them for people from 2000-2012 for rbv....a bunch for fullsize diesel guys. and of course modding factory systems in camaros transams and stangs...

waterbox control for nearly free and no brake lines work is hard to pass up.











 

smilinjack

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Thanks for that. So I've stripped out ALL the electric harnesses from the bay down to the 3 square connectors at the lower drivers side firewall. I've decided to start from scratch. If I'm understanding your description and I wired the pump, w/o the TAN and WHITE wires, I could use this as a LINE LOCK ? That would be isolating the rear brakes from the pedal push? I'm a drag racer don't cha know:owned:
 

bobbywalter

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4WD
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sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
yes....the prooblem with this setup is that you have to manually apply the brakes unlike the earlier gm tc systems.


so i went to momentary switching so you dont lock out braking with a toggle putting yourself in a world of shit.


back when we had radio shacks i used a small project box with momentary switches.....push rear...hit brake.....burn away.

burn button locked out both rears if you had added a channel or had a 4 channel....just one for the setup you have.


so when you 4 channel you have 5 buttons on the face...and an arm button...a rear lockout toggle elsewhere.... you let go of the remote the brakes all work...


had some incidences climbing waterfalls in a truck with no lockers...so a deadman remote is ideal.










so if i did not confuse you....yes....wire the isolation to a ground......and push brake pedel...roll on throttle.....sidestep cutch....rear brakes are off....fronts work. glorious waterbox heat...

with it on a momentary you wont forget to rearm for full brakes.
 

scrapper

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I was wondering would you need 22 circuit or would 12 work with the wiring harness? I have been looking at a bunch and noticed some dont have high beams or turn signals,head light circuits. Some include those. Some are short wires. I understand that but for a plain jane daily driver do you need 22?
 

smilinjack

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I don't know the answer but you might want to pm bobbywalter. He's the one that introduced it to this thread.
 


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