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Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2021
- Messages
- 208
- Reaction score
- 84
- Points
- 28
- Location
- Memphis, TN
- Vehicle Year
- 1987
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger
- Transmission
- Automatic
Haven’t posted in a while, figured I should.
1990 std/std 2.3 manual.
A prior owner (one or more of MANY) named Bubba already half assed did the front but the rear was untouched. Maybe shocks. Truck listed to one side, made noise, rode horrible.
33 year old bushings with fused bolts and fused shackles (plus a broken shock on one side) made it all quite terrible.
I had avoided inspecting the rear brakes when I did a critical go-through on the truck to restore Bubba damages. I drove to the local APS about 2 mikes away from home, hit a bump and a growl came from left rear when spinning. I figured a spring maybe broke. I was right. But holy hell, rear brakes were thin and gone, cracked drum, rust encrusted, and the springs were all about to say bye bye. I say OEM hardware that survived 33 years.
I have been on a rampage with the family vehicles, rebuilding the suspensions as of late. So I figured one more would be no problem. Oh was I wrong.
removing leafs was traumatic and I likely suffer from a disorder now. The springs probably should have been replaced but not wanting to pour money in, I opted to install energy polys for bushings, new Monroe’s and call it good. The rough ride was the leafs being fused such that the only motion was the apex of the spring. The shackles were fused solid, all bushings were fused.
I had to cut all but one bolt to remove leafs.Next nightmare was removing the swollen with rust bushings from the springs on the hydraulic press. OMg what a nightmare. They aren’t sleeved so the leafs and all the rust in the eyes acted like claws.
I won but not without the expense of 6 showers, 3 pairs of pants, 10 shirts. It’s Memphis- hot and wet.
Took the truck for a drive just around the block a few times tonight. Wow- not only does it stop so smooth and nice, it actually rides a bit like a Cadillac. The springs are tired so they softened the ride nicely. I don’t haul so it’s welcomed. The shocks provided great dampening. If I have to do it again, I’ll pull the bed (assuming a different truck) because not having a lift and working on your back on 9/16” grade 8 factory bolts and a 4.5 inch grinder absolutely sucked. My 3.5 foot breaker bar did nothing on those fused bolts.
The front end wasn’t done right. Bushings are different colors- ball joints are kosher though. It drives straight so I’ll let perfection pass for now.
I have become fond of the Energy poly bushings and the Mevotech Supreme parts as well. The ride quality on other vehicles completed in the last 60 days is very very good.
Interesting fact- I’ve never lived above the snow line so salt is a rarity for me. This was a Mississippi truck it’s entire life. The frame shows zero signs of salt or rust but the leaf eyes and shackles were stricken baldy.
Being in an AG business where I deal with frequent long term submerged steel parts and often being exposed to fertilizer, we use lithium grease (lubriplate) by the 5 gallon bucket to act as an antisieze and an encapsulation from corrosives contact. “If ford” had only greased those bushed bolts on the assembly line, I would have had less trouble- even 33 years later. I have had to remove bolts installed 40 plus years ago, the industry adopted grease in the 50s, those bolts may need a torch heating but I’ll be darned if those flowered pieces of crap don’t always free up.
I always find grease remnants when removing them. I tried a torch heating several times on the bushing bolts. The bushing sleeves were fused their entirety. There was no help.
Note to all, apply grease- it will save you- or someone else- from getting some schism after completing a rebuild.
1990 std/std 2.3 manual.
A prior owner (one or more of MANY) named Bubba already half assed did the front but the rear was untouched. Maybe shocks. Truck listed to one side, made noise, rode horrible.
33 year old bushings with fused bolts and fused shackles (plus a broken shock on one side) made it all quite terrible.
I had avoided inspecting the rear brakes when I did a critical go-through on the truck to restore Bubba damages. I drove to the local APS about 2 mikes away from home, hit a bump and a growl came from left rear when spinning. I figured a spring maybe broke. I was right. But holy hell, rear brakes were thin and gone, cracked drum, rust encrusted, and the springs were all about to say bye bye. I say OEM hardware that survived 33 years.
I have been on a rampage with the family vehicles, rebuilding the suspensions as of late. So I figured one more would be no problem. Oh was I wrong.
removing leafs was traumatic and I likely suffer from a disorder now. The springs probably should have been replaced but not wanting to pour money in, I opted to install energy polys for bushings, new Monroe’s and call it good. The rough ride was the leafs being fused such that the only motion was the apex of the spring. The shackles were fused solid, all bushings were fused.
I had to cut all but one bolt to remove leafs.Next nightmare was removing the swollen with rust bushings from the springs on the hydraulic press. OMg what a nightmare. They aren’t sleeved so the leafs and all the rust in the eyes acted like claws.
I won but not without the expense of 6 showers, 3 pairs of pants, 10 shirts. It’s Memphis- hot and wet.
Took the truck for a drive just around the block a few times tonight. Wow- not only does it stop so smooth and nice, it actually rides a bit like a Cadillac. The springs are tired so they softened the ride nicely. I don’t haul so it’s welcomed. The shocks provided great dampening. If I have to do it again, I’ll pull the bed (assuming a different truck) because not having a lift and working on your back on 9/16” grade 8 factory bolts and a 4.5 inch grinder absolutely sucked. My 3.5 foot breaker bar did nothing on those fused bolts.
The front end wasn’t done right. Bushings are different colors- ball joints are kosher though. It drives straight so I’ll let perfection pass for now.
I have become fond of the Energy poly bushings and the Mevotech Supreme parts as well. The ride quality on other vehicles completed in the last 60 days is very very good.
Interesting fact- I’ve never lived above the snow line so salt is a rarity for me. This was a Mississippi truck it’s entire life. The frame shows zero signs of salt or rust but the leaf eyes and shackles were stricken baldy.
Being in an AG business where I deal with frequent long term submerged steel parts and often being exposed to fertilizer, we use lithium grease (lubriplate) by the 5 gallon bucket to act as an antisieze and an encapsulation from corrosives contact. “If ford” had only greased those bushed bolts on the assembly line, I would have had less trouble- even 33 years later. I have had to remove bolts installed 40 plus years ago, the industry adopted grease in the 50s, those bolts may need a torch heating but I’ll be darned if those flowered pieces of crap don’t always free up.
I always find grease remnants when removing them. I tried a torch heating several times on the bushing bolts. The bushing sleeves were fused their entirety. There was no help.
Note to all, apply grease- it will save you- or someone else- from getting some schism after completing a rebuild.
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