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Frame repair/ leaf hanger

Reicharm

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Hey guys, I have a 94 super cab and I’m in the process of changing out the leaf hanger on the passenger side. The problem I have is there are a few small rust holes, 1/8th diameter in the fram right on the edge of where the hanger mounts on both sides. My question is, if I weld in a patch with 1/8th plate that spans the entire mounting surface of the hanger, then mount the hanger on that plate. With that 1/8th inch further out affect the leafs or the bushing. Thanks.
 


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alwaysFlOoReD

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Probably no difference that you would ever notice. I did similar to the front of my truck for the coil bucket.
Edit;
Tho now that i think on it you will have about 1/16" more toe-out than you do now.
Can you weld the plate on the inside
Edit #2
It was late at night....
You wont get toe-out. You will never notice. And do plate both sides of the frame if possible. Dont make the plates the same size! Round corners are less likely to cause stress cracks from the points of the plate.
 
Last edited:

bobbywalter

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Shim both sides


And the shackle will eat it up regardless.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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See edit #2.
 

Reicharm

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Probably no difference that you would ever notice. I did similar to the front of my truck for the coil bucket.
Edit;
Tho now that i think on it you will have about 1/16" more toe-out than you do now.
Can you weld the plate on the inside?
Thanks, there is a cross member that intersects on the backside so I didn’t want to get into cutting that out and reattaching it. I’m considering it more the longer I think about it though.
 

Reicharm

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Shim both sides


And the shackle will eat it up regardless.
If I shim the rear shackle to match the plate behind the hanger that will move the entire leaf pack out an 1/8 putting it out of center with hole in the block right? Or am I misunderstanding?
 
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bobbywalter

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If I shim the rear shackle to match the plate behind the hanger that will move the entire leaf pack out an 1/8 putting it out of center with hole in the block right? Or am I misunderstanding?

Your right on ...


As an example..

There are spring pad and pumpkin centering differences between b2 and ranger as well.

With modified (clearanced with grinder) or just a Removed gas tank skid plate to keep the driveshaft from rubbing .... the axle works fine...

maybe a few degrees shim at the perch depending on ride height ect...

And perch left to right spacing is off enough you have to hold the spring over to get it in the locating hole.

regardless. It's a leaf spring. And the holes have so much slop....and the frame walks and moves so much....1/8 inch is nothing for a truck that does truck stuff.
 

snoranger

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racsan

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I slid heavy channel iron over my frame, was a little difficult getting one side of the axle to sit on the leaf pack right (alignment dowel in spring pack to hole on spring pad on axle) I used another section of channel to tie both sides together (like a crossmember) and made my own receiver hitch off of it. Ive towed many things many times with no issues (frame wise- horse power & braking in a whole other story) I did have to shim the other mounting points of the bed up a bit, thats why if you look close the body lines are a bit off and the back bumper got lowered a little so I made a filler plate at the back out of a plastic political sign.



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860495F1-CE73-41A5-AAB0-CE76AFF55C76.jpeg
 
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scotts90ranger

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This reminds me, I should probably buy one of those for my '90 since there's currently a wrench welded to the top of the frame and to the shackle hanger...

And holy cow I'm SO glad I don't live in the rust belt, the rustiest square inch of my '90 is maybe 10% as bad as the the best square inch in the pics racsan posted...
 

racsan

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I had no idea that truck was that bad when I bought it, after I got it I had pulled the bed and took the air chiesel to the spare tire carrier. Rust just fell off like you were hosing off mud. I coated everything with por-15 including my repair peices of channel iron (which was a peice of farm equipment that was wore out & no longer useable) I also had to plate the left side frame at the front spring hanger mount & back cab mount. Yes it should of been scrapped , but at the time it was all I had to work with. Ive made it better, its been on the road almost 4 years now. I have seen worse frames, not on the road but in junkyards when Id be hunting parts. Oddly enough the junkyard frame rot Ive seen has been more between the cab & back axle, not like mine where it was mostly past the rear spring hangers. That why I try to keep it parked under roof in winter. Let that unibody hhr take the salt abuse.

heres some pictures I just took, shows the hitch and drivers side plating (drivers side plating is just 4” flat peices, 1/4” thick)
4378C100-2970-44D9-BA66-8AAB76015171.jpeg
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A51FDFB3-7DD0-43C0-B88C-84E2C1B84203.jpeg
 
Last edited:

rusty ol ranger

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Ive never seen nor had a truck frame rot totally like that. Not even rusty #1.

Maybe i dont look hard enough?
 

Roert42

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Good old Ohio.
 

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