found some jeep axles

[dangerranger83]

I still say go for it...werent you going for a D30 swap anyways...now you have the free axle to do it. But if it is a LP axle then forget about it. I would go for coils myself but leaves will work fine too.

 

[Jason]

Rear D35 is garbage.

Front non-CAD D30 is OK but the ring/pinion starts to get weak in the deeper ratios.

The non-CAD D30s use the same joint as a TTB D35, it's a lot stronger than a D28.

There is a reason Chrysler switched to the corporate 8.25" as the axle of choice. Dana used to be good, but not anymore. Dana Corp is also the group responsible for the Tacoma frame rot. They did the treating of the steel and ****ed it up badly. Although, if you like replacing axle and pinion seals then by all means run the Dana.

 

[Boggin]

I still say go for it...werent you going for a D30 swap anyways...now you have the free axle to do it. But if it is a LP axle then forget about it. I would go for coils myself but leaves will work fine too.

yeah, if i do it i will run leaves front and rear

 

[chrwilkins30]

get rid of the d35, and replace it with an 8.8 but lots of people are running d30's? what!?!

first of all, the 8.8 is a rear diff, where as the d35 on a ranger is front... they aren't interchangeable, and i don't actually know of one build running a d30, and you ask damn near anyone and they will say it's worth more as scrap steel than as a car part... not to mention the axle in the front of his truck is probably a d35 to begin with, and is bigger and stronger!

you must have read it wrong get rid of the jeep d35 and use a 8.8. and swap the d30 upfront.

There is plenty putting d30's in the front. here is just one that i found in less than 10secs.

http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92330

 

[TeamExploder]

The D30 swap is worthy, was speaking to a Jeep guy that just SAS'd a mountaineer with a D30 and said its a stout axle just be sure to go with a 95+ D30 and truss the passenger side as the axle tube is weak. You can try selling the D35 rear but any jeeper that knows their jeeps will probably just avoid the rear because it's a weak axle for being used for a rear end.

 

[Explorin94]

I have been running a Leaf Spung, High Pinion D30 for the last 2 years under my 88. It has a 4.0, A4LD and a manual 1354. I have yet to replace any seals, u-joints, shafts or unit bearings, while running 4.10's, a Lock Right and 35's. I have run 37's without any problems also. I know my limits when wheeling with it (cross them sometimes) and I do not ram rod it around, friends say that I am conservative. There is an aftermarket following for that axle.......but why polish a turd. Eventually I will come across a D44 and put it under the truck but not until that axle has a catastrophic failure. The 95 D30 has no CAD system and bigger joints so that would be a good axle to start with. It would also make a good platform to upgrade off of. Meaning you can set the truck up with the D30 and tweek it untill you get it to your liking. Then when you find the axle you want it should be a unbolt and bolt back in situation. So basically if the axle is free then by all means take it and run while leaving the D35 rear axle there to rot.

 

[dangerranger83]

you must have read it wrong get rid of the jeep d35 and use a 8.8. and swap the d30 upfront.

There is plenty putting d30's in the front. here is just one that i found in less than 10secs.

http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92330

Thats me!!!!!!!


And there are other people who have done this too.... search function works wonders.

 

[Boggin]

how can i found out what year the jeep is? shes upside down in a pile of junk so getting the vin number wont be that easy

i wont be getting the rear axle anyways, its missing the yoke and the bearings and the pinion looks to be just falling out, so fawk that ill just run an 8.8. i was kinda hoping i could get a matching set of axles so i wouldnt have to buy gears though but maybe the front will have like 3.73s if im lucky enough. thats an easy gear to find for the 8.8.

the radius arms/control arms on the front diff are bent to **** cause the jeep was pushed up on top of the bile sideways an shit but i dont need the control arms anyways, ill be going leaf sprung for sure if i do the swap. the front axle is also missing a yoke but the pinion threads and bearing looks to be in ok shape. anyone got a spare yoke?

and i also noticed theres no cad on the axle, thank god. so im guessing its 95 and newer? also meaning bigger joints?

 

[mhughes165]

man, the way u are to vehicles a dana 30 is a joke, you should not even be considering it, it took me the first time i ever did it 2 hours to shorten a full width 44 (which u have better access to) all u need is a grinder, some time, a bfh a protractor and a welder. the place where the brake line mounts to on a 78-9 HP d44 is the same angle on both sides, so u use that as a point of reference to make it all line up when u put the end back on

how can i found out what year the jeep is? shes upside down in a pile of junk so getting the vin number wont be that easy

i wont be getting the rear axle anyways, its missing the yoke and the bearings and the pinion looks to be just falling out, so fawk that ill just run an 8.8. i was kinda hoping i could get a matching set of axles so i wouldnt have to buy gears though but maybe the front will have like 3.73s if im lucky enough. thats an easy gear to find for the 8.8.

the radius arms/control arms on the front diff are bent to **** cause the jeep was pushed up on top of the bile sideways an shit but i dont need the control arms anyways, ill be going leaf sprung for sure if i do the swap. the front axle is also missing a yoke but the pinion threads and bearing looks to be in ok shape. anyone got a spare yoke?

and i also noticed theres no cad on the axle, thank god. so im guessing its 95 and newer? also meaning bigger joints?

 

[Boggin]

man, the way u are to vehicles a dana 30 is a joke, you should not even be considering it, it took me the first time i ever did it 2 hours to shorten a full width 44 (which u have better access to) all u need is a grinder, some time, a bfh a protractor and a welder. the place where the brake line mounts to on a 78-9 HP d44 is the same angle on both sides, so u use that as a point of reference to make it all line up when u put the end back on

id like to put i pretty much only have the housing, nothing from the knuckle out and no shafts or gears

 

[dangerranger83]

I havent seen a d30 stock with 3.73 gears yet, not saying they dont exist. I had to put 3.73's in mine and I was good to go.

My axle is an 85 and doesnt have the CAD on it. Plus it came with the tubes welded to the diff. all the way around.

 

[4.0B2]

You can sometimes get lucky and find a 4 cyclinder xj that has 4.10's. But most are 3.55's. That poses the problem of the carrier break. It breaks at 3.73's...

 

[86 slo-vo]

the d28, in my opinion, is still better than the d30... if for nothing more than you won't beat on it as much because you didn't just put 2000$ into it, and now think it's bulletproof

the purpose of sas's is to make the drivetrain significantly stronger, and to add wheel travel to the front... the difference in strength from the d28 to d30 is negligible

a d28 and a dana 30 front axle arent in the same catagory. the 28 is junk and cant even take 31's. a stock d-30 can handle 33's-35's without much problems...

though i still dont suggest running one.

 

[mhughes165]

a d28 and a dana 30 front axle arent in the same catagory. the 28 is junk and cant even take 31's. a stock d-30 can handle 33's-35's without much problems...

though i still dont suggest running one.

it all depends on how the person drives, if they are afraid of breaking the truck then they are easy on the pedal, or dont make it as far as someone who knows they can deliver a full on whooping to there truck without mercy and she will come back for more, THAT is the deciding factor, wether or not the balls have dropped yet, or if the girlfriend keeps them in there pocket lol all in good fun

 

[4.0B2]

for some it comes down to the fact they don't wanna tear up their trucks... my body is to straight and i have to much work into it just to go bash it up.

some people want an all around capable truck that they still dd on monday. usually when someone is just wanting to run 33's or so don't want to run the hardest trails anyways..

comes down to what the truck is being built for. is it built to run some basic trails? medium trails? or to run anything and everything on 1 tons and 40's