Ford Ranger Clutch/Brake Assembly Removal Issue

[drtbikerider]

Hello, I'm currently attempting to remove my clutch/brake pedal assembly on my Ford Ranger 3.0 V6 manual since it cracked overtime and the bushings are worn.

That said, the two bolts at the top are extremely hard to get to with a ratchet or drill, even with a ball-swivel head on either the drill or ratchet.

The ratchet/socket fits on the top two bolts of the assembly, but the backside of the ratchet hits the big grey part of the dash when the bolt is only about half way out preventing me from removing it completely. The swivel head on the drill & extension has no chance without hitting the backside.

At this point, I'm not sure how to get around this issue. I could maybe put a regular wrench up there at an angle but that would quite obviously be quite a pain in the @$$ understandably.

I've looked all over the place for a video or even photo showing the removal process to no avail...

Any insight would be greatly appreciated!

- Connor

 

[Uncle Gump]

You have to remember that the assembly was put in before the dash...

Might try a wobble extension and a universal socket... maybe even a stubby ratcheting wrench.

Persistence will win eventually.

 

[Shran]

That's very difficult to do with the dash in place but it actually looks possible... I agree with Gump, flex head or stubby or stubby flex head ratchet wrench is what I'd probably use.

You have to pull the dash on some earlier trucks to get the pedal assembly out, at least you're not dealing with that too.

 

[2drxploder]

jest removed and reinstalled mine. i used short 6 point socket, 3/8 u-joint, 12" x 3/8 extension. in that order of assembly too

 

[Shadowrider6661]

"Unsolicited Advice", and a "Random Thought".
You could also try a socket that has a hex head, that allows you to put a wrench on it. I have a set like that, it makes removing that type of bolt fairly easy.

 

[Shadowrider6661]

One other thing. Welcome to the club.

 

[drtbikerider]

One other thing. Welcome to the club.

Thank you thank you.

 

[drtbikerider]

You have to remember that the assembly was put in before the dash...

Might try a wobble extension and a universal socket... maybe even a stubby ratcheting wrench.

Persistence will win eventually.

Yes, just trying to see if there's a way around all of that dash stuff ha.

I tried a both a wobble head and stubby ratcheting wrench to no avail. The head on the ratchet hits on the backside directly out from the bolt if you will.
I may have to remove dash or shove a wrench up there and hope to twist it 1mm at a time. As you said, persistence will win eventually.

 

[drtbikerider]

"Unsolicited Advice", and a "Random Thought".
You could also try a socket that has a hex head, that allows you to put a wrench on it. I have a set like that, it makes removing that type of bolt fairly easy.

That's a good idea! I'll see if I have one sitting around here somewhere.

 

[drtbikerider]

Thanks for all the comments everyone. Figured I'd give you an update while I'm taking a wrenching break!

I loosened the two main dash bolts next to the fuse box in the driver side door jam, which allowed the entire steering column and big thing blocking the dang bolt to move just a tad (less than a half inch when pulling on the entire steering column etc).

I then grabbed the smallest 3/8" ratchet I had (in regard to head thickness) and used a regular socket to loosen the top left bolt in the photo about half way before the ratchet hit on the backside so I could still take the ratchet off.

When the bolt was about half way out I took the ratchet off and used the socket by hand. My fingers pulled through and had enough strength to loosen the bolt by finger the rest of the way.

After several attempts I finally got the suckers out, but it definitely took a little finagling. Hope to never have to do this job again... cheers. haha

 

[Uncle Gump]

Told ya so...

 

[pjtoledo]

for future consideration: swivel socket


TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive x 13 mm Universal Joint Socket | SHD18113 - - Amazon.com

 

[drtbikerider]

for future consideration: swivel socket


TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive x 13 mm Universal Joint Socket | SHD18113 - - Amazon.com

Good call, my joint socket swivel didn't fit unfortunately (mine is the swivel adapter, not with built in socket). Looks like the all-in-one swivel socket you mentioned would have probably worked.

 

[drtbikerider]

Told ya so...

Is there a trick to reinstall the clutch master cylinder where the square pops through and twists to lock? The square piece on the master cylinder fits into the square hole on the assembly but won't go all the way through to where I can twist & lock it. I've been trying to get this square sucker in for almost two hours now..

 

[Shadowrider6661]

The trick is, Patience ! You'll get it together, all it takes is time. Make sure the firewall isn't pushed in, it may not look like it is bent or deformed, I had the same problem with mine a couple years back, all I did was push it out a little bit, and that fixed the problem. It's worth checking, don't you think ? I hope this helps you out.