FNG from AZ with a '88 B2EB needs H.E.L.P.!

[Peter Griffin]

Greetings TRS! Apparently I have a lot of free time and nothing else better to do so I bought my neighbor's '88 Bronco II when he mentioned he was looking to get it off his books. It's an Eddie Bauer 4WD/auto (A/C) with 88K original miles and I THINK it has a body lift (I'll post some pictures later). The exterior/paint is SMOKED thanks to Arizona's insanely intense sun but is almost completely straight and otherwise undamaged, except for a wonky/misaligned front bumper. The interior is...well, 35 years old but in decent shape all things considered.

I had it inspected and it did well with the exception of the front wheel bearings and rear shocks needing replacement. The A/C was disconnected with the belt lying the back cargo area so I threw that on and it works but the clutch is on the way out so that's gonna need replacement. It seems to be leak free and the radiator was apparently replaced with a monster aftermarket deal that takes FOREVER for it to get up to operating temperature, which is fine with me. The exhaust is a horror show with some half-azzed cat delete which will be un-deleted to fix the sound/stink.

It starts HARD, hot or cold. I think it may be the TPS as adding some throttle/pedal seems to fix it...? Before I start replacing that, the IAC valve and/or MAP sensor I'm waiting on my Chilton's manual and code reader. I did the idle-speed setting procedure shown in the 2.9 motor section and once it does start, it idles relatively smoothly at 750 RPM +/-...

Plans are relatively modest. Once I fix those issues (exhaust, starting and A/C specifically) I'll get the interior cleaned up and updated. I like it's current ride height so I wasn't thinking about a lift but I'm fairly certain the 35-year old suspension bushings need to go but thought going all polyurethane would create too many NVH issues...? I was also going to add-a-leaf (I didn't think I'd need to replace the original leaf springs themselves) and go with Duff's 70/30 shocks and a steering stabilizer. I've taken it on the interstate a couple of times and it does the speed limit (75 MPH) just fine...just a lil too floaty/loose for my taste. The tires are likewise smoked and Gawd knows how old and I'm looking at replacing them with some new wheels and 31-inch KO2s in the not so distant future. As far the exterior goes, I've used Raptor liner on my Jeeps in the past but this is the first time I'm going for a full exterior coating and that's the plan; like desert/FDE with a black roof, rockers and bumpers and a middle-hood black accent. Blackout grille and LED headlights with all interior/exterior lighting/housings updated/upgraded.

I've already spent a buttload of time on here already voraciously reading as much as I can, but I'm still gonna have a ton of questions as this is my first Ranger/Bronco rodeo and if I don't do something right the first time...I'm gonna need to the second! Thanks in advance for everyone's help, it's much appreciated!

 

[ericbphoto]

Welcome!

 

[Shran]

Welcome!

I would start by pulling codes to troubleshoot your hard starting issue but usually my gut feeling on those is low fuel pressure (pump(s), filter clogged) or bad coolant temp sensor (poor gas mileage is another symptom) or a failed fuel pressure regulator (also bad gas mileage, hard hot starts, fuel present in the FPR vacuum line and/or brake booster.) FWIW, you can pull codes with a test light at the test port under the hood... also this Bosch code reader is really good for OBD-1 vehicles:

https://www.amazon.com/BOSCH-Car-Scanner-KTS525-Diagnostics/dp/B01HF0993Q?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A3PPIGCQWPHZCX

My recommendation for bushings is to go with rubber as much as you can. I've never had good luck with poly bushings. You can get new rubber leaf spring bushings from Michigan Truck Spring - I think RB159 (front) and RB131 (rear) are the ones you want. In the front, you will want to replace the radius arm bushings and may not have a choice but to use poly. Make sure the crossmember they go into is in good shape and not cracked or worn where the bushings go through! The pivot bushings are for sure available in rubber. Good idea to replace those, they are probably shot, easiest to remove the axle from the truck to do it.

While you've got the front end out to do bushings, you could swap in a Dana 35 front axle from an Explorer or later model Ranger... food for thought

 

[Peter Griffin]

Thanks for that link for the code reader @Shran! That's WAY sexier than the one I ordered and relatively short money...

As a Jeeper I can most definitely appreciate the "need" to do an axle swap and neither that nor a 5.0 motor swap are out of the question, it's just for right now I want to get everything as solid as possible before I start creating issues where none previously existed...!

 

[dvdswan]

Welcome to the site.

 

[Peter Griffin]

(*hood's popped for battery charger/tender)

Body lift mayhaps?

I tried the code reader I bought and it wasn't particularly helpful, so I ordered the one @Shran recommended for shits and giggles and I'll run that up the flagpole and see if it waves...

Figured out the rat's nest and black box stuffed under the steering column/lower dash is some janky azz alarm system so that needs to go too.

 

[Stumblefoot]

Yep it's a body lift..Good looking truck. Since it's not your daily driver, take your time and do things right. Your list isn't too bad but you will find more as you dig deeper. After all its a 35 year old truck.

 

[Uncle Gump]

For sure a 3 inch body lift...

Looking at the lift block... it sure looks like they're pretty weather checked or something. I would probably poke at them a little and ensure they aren't ready to crumble.

Nice truck though... looks really clean.

Welcome to TRS...

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I would remove the body lift and replace the original body mount bushings while at it.

But that's just me, I really don't like body lifts.

 

[Peter Griffin]

Yep it's a body lift..Good looking truck. Since it's not your daily driver, take your time and do things right. Your list isn't too bad but you will find more as you dig deeper. After all its a 35 year old truck.

Good deal, I'm glad I got that part right at least! I'm retired and this is actually a fourth vehicle for my wife and I and she's all about the therapeutic aspect of it keeping me occupied...

For sure a 3 inch body lift...

Looking at the lift block... it sure looks like they're pretty weather checked or something. I would probably poke at them a little and ensure they aren't ready to crumble.

Nice truck though... looks really clean.

Welcome to TRS...

Copy that, I thought likewise and figured it'd be a good idea. I know things add up but both the lift/bushings are relatively short money and I'm an attention to detail kind of Dude...

But that's just me, I really don't like body lifts.

I'd like to run 31s (KO2s most likely) so whatever I need to do will work, and I've never done body lifts on our Jeeps (JK/JL/JT) so a modest suspension lift (no more than 3-inches) would be fine. I'm not sure what goes into a 3-inch body lift and what I'd need to uninstall to do it properly so I need to figure some things out!

Thanks all for your helpful/thoughtful replies/suggestions, I appreciate it!

 

[Peter Griffin]

I ended up getting the Bosch code reader that @Shran recommended and started futzing with that...

Since I was planning on flushing the coolant and replacing the thermostat (with a stock 192-degree) in the process of looking into that I figured out it was taking almost forever to reach operating temp because the thermostat is stuck open; the upper radiator hose is always full. The reservoir is trashed and a new one was cheap enough so that's on the way here while the Prestone radiator flush works its magic.

The stuck thermostat was giving me an error code for not being up to operating temperature during the testing and the only other code I saw was it failing to recognize the throttle test being done which is again leading me to the TPS being wonky.

It's starting very hard, hot or cold, and I'm not seeing any codes besides those two (21 and 76 I think...?). I'm more than happy to replace the fuel pumps/filter, etc. and until I get the service manual in another day or two so I can follow a diagnosis tree, I may see what swapping the TPS out does to help...

Comments, suggestions, insults and death threats are always welcome!

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I ended up getting the Bosch code reader that @Shran recommended and started futzing with that...

Since I was planning on flushing the coolant and replacing the thermostat (with a stock 192-degree) in the process of looking into that I figured out it was taking almost forever to reach operating temp because the thermostat is stuck open; the upper radiator hose is always full. The reservoir is trashed and a new one was cheap enough so that's on the way here while the Prestone radiator flush works its magic.

The stuck thermostat was giving me an error code for not being up to operating temperature during the testing and the only other code I saw was it failing to recognize the throttle test being done which is again leading me to the TPS being wonky.

It's starting very hard, hot or cold, and I'm not seeing any codes besides those two (21 and 76 I think...?). I'm more than happy to replace the fuel pumps/filter, etc. and until I get the service manual in another day or two so I can follow a diagnosis tree, I may see what swapping the TPS out does to help...

Comments, suggestions, insults and death threats are always welcome!

Easy and typical issues for an old rig. There's various temp range thermostats avail and whatnot.
As for the hard starting, might want to do some tests in regarda to fuel pump/pressure. Your fuel pump might be on its way out, like mine is lol (keeps getting harder to start).

 

[Peter Griffin]

I'm apparently stuck on stupid (not the first time and won't be the last!) as far as being hung up on the TPS is concerned; as suggested it's a fuel filter/pump/pressure type issue that I'm experiencing. The code reader(s) aren't helping with anything specific and I need to try the easier/less expensive repairs before the well, you know...!

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I'm apparently stuck on stupid (not the first time and won't be the last!) as far as being hung up on the TPS is concerned; as suggested it's a fuel filter/pump/pressure type issue that I'm experiencing. The code reader(s) aren't helping with anything specific and I need to try the easier/less expensive repairs before the well, you know...!

Lol no worries. At least your problems can be relatively easily solved.

Definitely start with the cheaper/easier stuff first, initially being the fuel filter. If that don't help then maybe check for fuel pressure. Luckily, there's not much parts to throw at it. You got a fuel pump, pressure pressure regulator, the filter, and some injectors. Filter is cheap and easy, so is pressure regulator. Injectors are rarely bad, can be cleaned, and usually not the problem.

Have you tried cycling the key a few times before you start it? You should hear the fuel pump prime each time. That should help diagnosis.

 

[Peter Griffin]

I can hear the fuel pump prime with each key cycle, thanks @Eddo Rogue! Filter's pretty easy and good insurance to swap out and the regulator looks likewise too. There's 2 fuel pumps on an '88 though yeah? One on the frame rail and another on the sending unit, correct?