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FM145/146/132 front and rear bearing pullers


Shran

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Seems to be a lack of information out there about these - much more so with M5ODs... anyway... I am going to undertake rebuilding one FM145 and possibly an FM146 as well, just 'cuz I have them, and although they have their well known, well documented weaknesses, for my purposes, they will be just fine.

I have one FM145 halfway torn down on my bench right now. The service manual calls for removing the input shaft bearing, and later the output shaft bearing, before the trans can be fully disassembled: The Rotunda tools the manual calls for are the following:

(input bearing) Tube, T75L-7025-B, Bearing Collets, T75L-7025-D,Bearing Collet Sleeve, T75L-7025-G and Forcing Screw, T84T-7025-B
(main shaft rear bearing) Tube, T75L-7025-B, Mainshaft Bearing Collet Remover TB5T-7065-A, Bearing Collet Sleeve, T77F-7025-C and Forcing Screw, T84T-7025-B

Is there a substitute for these tools? It appears it is basically a clamshell bearing puller with various sizes of collets. Is there an alternative way to remove these bearings that works well? I have some ideas but before I go full send I figured I would check with y'all...
 


Transman304

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A set up like this will get the job done. Just make sure the size on the separator will meet your needs.
220C3085-B56E-416F-9EA9-37B830FBAAE9.jpeg
Brad
 

Shran

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A set up like this will get the job done. Just make sure the size on the separator will meet your needs.
View attachment 56982
Brad
Funny, that was my first thought, I figured I could use my big bearing splitter to grab the snap ring groove... did NOT work! I worked on that stupid thing for over an hour and made zero progress. My splitter is kind of cheap but I bent the all thread I had holding it together.

Then I figured out that if you remove the countershaft races completely, as I had not done, you can slide the countershaft back and out enough for the input shaft to slide right out of the case.

Stupid service manual! They make it sound like you MUST remove the input bearing before anything else will come apart. NOT true. So basically... disregard what I asked for. 😂

And, I doubt ANY puller would have worked on the stupid input bearing. It was super seized onto the shaft. I had to chuck it up in my bench vise and beat the input shaft out of it with a brass sledge hammer and it still fought me.

Thanks for the advise, sure appreciate having you around the forum. :icon_cheers:
 

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BFH for the win!
 

19Walt93

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I borrowed a box full of pullers and adapters from the dealer when I built an FM145 last summer. I hope never to do another one of those things. I'll be surprised if a universal puller set does it for you, I wish you luck.
 

Shran

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I borrowed a box full of pullers and adapters from the dealer when I built an FM145 last summer. I hope never to do another one of those things. I'll be surprised if a universal puller set does it for you, I wish you luck.
The way they come apart is kinda weird and I'm glad I was paying attention to some seemingly directional pieces. Hopefully this works, I have a truck with a bad A4LD and a truck with a very worn out FM145. Rather than burn up my good spare M5OD on junker trucks I figured I'd use up other spare junk... an FM145 that has some minor rust damage inside and an FM146 that has a blown up input bearing. At the end of this I hope to have two working transmissions and zero Mitsubishi spares on the shelf, lol
 

Transman304

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No worries man, glad to help when I can. Just FYI , for ease of putting new bearings on the shafts is to heat them in a toaster oven or on a hot plate. No more than 300 degrees. This is what I use with inferred thermometer.
Brad

57093
 

Shran

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These transmissions are stupid.

Have to press bearings on with it partially assembled, it's a bugger to get the countershaft in, etc. Fought that one for a good hour before I decided to hog out the front of the case with a die grinder for clearance. Service manual says something to the affect of "move main shaft forwards for countershaft installation clearance" but it doesn't move far enough to get it assembled... I am shocked how bad the manual is.

I read a tech article about a sleeve, bearing and spacer that 5th gear rides on. Apparently the sleeve spins and wears into the synchro hub in front of it. I saw evidence of that on mine and assembled it for fun - once you tighten the main shaft nut, it locks up the whole transmission. 😂 And now I know why the nut on this one was finger tight...that was the only way to make it work! So, I've got a repair bearing/sleeve and a new synchro hub on order... hope my next victim isn't this bad.
 

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If I decide to replace my C4 I'll use a T5. I'd rather have a Powerglide than and FM145/6 and if you knew me you'd know what a slam that is. Not to rub the noses of FM transmission owners in it but to rebuild a 3.03 3 speed or a top loader 4 speed you need: a 1/2" wrench, a 9/16" wrench, a set of snap ring pliers, a long drift punch and a small hammer, and a short length of broom handle(or wooden dowel) to use as a dummy shaft for installing the counter shaft. And if no one ignored a fluid leak and burned it up or thrashed on it and tore up the syncros, you wouldn't be tearing it apart at all. This transmission is a perfect example of Japanese "engineering", right up there with timing belts on interference engines.
 

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Following this with interest. At some point I'm going to have to replace the 5th bearing on an FM132.
 

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I didn't need much for tools to tear this down. Actually it was really just chisels, a punch, 10-15MM sockets/wrenches, torque wrench, 24MM and 30MM sockets, and snap ring pliers (specific type that I've used on other transmissions and t-cases.) The one tool that I didn't have was a 41MM socket or wrench for the main shaft lock nut... I actually ran across a 41MM shallow socket in a pawn shop the day after disassembly, so I welded that to a piece of tube and another 1/2" drive socket. So now I have a 10" long 41MM socket similar to what the book calls for.

These things aren't really any more difficult to tear into than an M5OD but all of the mickey mouse crap where things have to be just aligned just right with the moon and planets is kind of annoying. Pressing the rear main bearings (3 piece assembly) was the worst part, it's impossible to see if it's on all the way because the race is in the way!
 

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I got the new 5th/rev hub and bearing today and finished putting it together.

Have to say, it was really not bad. Getting the tailhousing on while keeping the shift gates aligned was kind of a pain, but otherwise it was very straightforward. Will be excited to see how it performs vs the very worn out one in the truck now. Think I'm going to run Valvoline Synchromesh fluid in it instead of the 90w GL-4 I used before, hopefully that will be a lot better in cold weather.
 

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Thanks for the update. Hoping to hear that it turns out good.

On oil for my FM-132 I beat up the internet for info, and ended up using Synchromesh, but Pennzoil brand and not Valvoline (typo?). Shifted great and the oil seemed fine, but I've only put a few hundred miles on it because it's loud in 5th (and I did read up on the 5th common fail point).

So I'm looking at putting in new 5th gear parts sometime. The rest of the trans seems fine, and the input shaft is tight, so I'm thinking of doing the 5th gear parts only. Any advice on parts sources, tools needed, things to watch out for?
 

Shran

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Thanks for the update. Hoping to hear that it turns out good.

On oil for my FM-132 I beat up the internet for info, and ended up using Synchromesh, but Pennzoil brand and not Valvoline (typo?). Shifted great and the oil seemed fine, but I've only put a few hundred miles on it because it's loud in 5th (and I did read up on the 5th common fail point).

So I'm looking at putting in new 5th gear parts sometime. The rest of the trans seems fine, and the input shaft is tight, so I'm thinking of doing the 5th gear parts only. Any advice on parts sources, tools needed, things to watch out for?
That's probably what I would do... will require a partial teardown in your case... remove the tailhousing and the 5th/rev cluster is right there. I'd at minimum buy the repair bearing and sleeve... and just inspect 5th, reverse and the synchro hub & sleeve between them, replace if necessary. You will need new main shaft and countershaft nuts and a 41mm tool of some sort to torque the main shaft nut.

I have bought 99% of my transmission parts from ebay... a couple sellers, usa.industries, acerl, spark-surplus and finditparts usually have what I need.

If you service manuals or parts catalogs, PM me, I have a bunch of PDFs saved but I don't think I can publicly post them.
 

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