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Flushed heater core now truck won’t run, misfire on all 6 cyclinders.

bobbywalter

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Push in on the line and on the disco while rotating and working it back....may need to hose it out with wd and brake clean
 


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smythcounty

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Finally got the fuel line disconnected. Had to buy another brand tool but it worked. 3/8 for future reference.
 

RonD

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Just as a Heads up

There is only 1 fuel line on the 1998-2000 Rangers
The other line is for EVAP system
In 1997 and earlier there were 2 fuel lines, and in 2001 and up there were 2 fuel lines, an OUT and a Return

So 1998-2000 are oddball years, and true "Returnless" fuel systems
There is the fuel pump, of course, and THEN a fuel pressure regulator(FPR) connected to the OUT hose from the pump, FPR is then connected to the OUT hose you just disconnected

This setup didn't work as well as Ford hoped, lol, so in 2001 they added a 3 port fuel filter
The 3rd port on filter was a Return hose that went to the tank and connected to the FPR, same FPR, just now on the Return line to stabilize pressure at 60psi
And it was still called a "Returnless" fuel system by Ford :)

FPRs on either are not available as separate parts, have to get whole assembly

In this image of a 1998-2000 fuel pump assembly: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61QGOKD+cxS._AC_SY355_.jpg
You can see the pump at the bottom and the the FPR(round part) about half way up
And the second hose connection is just a vent for EVAP

This is a 2001 and up assembly: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61qqhd3lKyL._AC_SS450_.jpg
You can see that the fuel pump has its own hose to top of tank(OUT) and FPR also has its own separate hose to top of tank, IN from 3 port fuel filter
 
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DILLARD000

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That FuelPump connection looks similar to those on some FuelFilters;
a couple of vids explaining how to get those loose.
 

bobbywalter

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Yup....

And both styles can develop leaky ass hose syndrome before the regulator.


At least it's leaking in the tank instead of all over the ground.....unlike a parts cannon...

Damn parts cannons.
 

smythcounty

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Ok, so I got the fuel pump replaced and have 64-65 psi with the engine running. The engine is back to idling and running normal. I still can’t make the connection how flushing the heater core lead to fuel pump failure simultaneously, that’s a strange coincidence. Anyways, the original problem still exists intermittent heat. I usually have it at idle but not all the time. I did change the thermostat last night and bled the system. Same issue. But what I did notice was the upper hose flattening during acceleration.
Any thoughts on the heat and the hose?

Thanks everyone for the input thus far.
 

bobbywalter

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There is no connection.

Shit happens.


I don't remember the details of the 99 specifically. But I drop the column and the dash comes out pretty quick in the newer style.
 

bobbywalter

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You can pull the lines and blow out the core and fill it with clr and let it soak a few hours.....


That might do something.

Unplug the ac and verify duct alignment.

The flattening is a clue...I would bypass the heater hose control valve...
 

RonD

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Yes, I agree with "Stuff happens"

But if you want a connection lets say the flushing of the heater core soaked the alternator causing it to send out higher volts or even AC volts just as fuel pump came on(they both come on line at the same time), the voltage spike caused very high pressure which could have effected the FPR or the pumps ability to generate higher pressure
 

smythcounty

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The cold and snow has moved in so it will be a couple of days before I can get back working on the Ranger. But I do get the following codes now: P0171 (System Too Lean Bank 1) and P0174 (System Too Lean Bank2).
 

DILLARD000

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codes now: P0171 (System Too Lean Bank 1) and P0174 (System Too Lean Bank2)
You've got a Vacuum leak somewhere; check the PCV+Vac hoses for cracks\leaks.
 

smythcounty

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You've got a Vacuum leak somewhere; check the PCV+Vac hoses for cracks\leaks.
I can’t seem to find the PCV valve on this truck. Also is there anything I could spray to help isolate these vaccuum leaks?

On the heater issue, I’m still getting intermittent heat. Also since changing the thermostat, the truck has overheated twice. So my plan is to drain and flush the whole system this evening, replace the thermostat again and bypass the heater control valve completely. I went with the 192 degrees thermostat last time, I hope that was correct.
Thanks
 

rumblecloud

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This is probably not necessary, but make sure you are installing the thermostat in correctly. It only works one way. This is not a commentary on your skills.
1643288559858.png
 

smythcounty

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I’m going to start a new thread updating the heat issue since this one is finished concerning the misfire. Thanks everyone for helping me that fixed.
 

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