Flipping the leaf springs is turning into a real project.

[Isk Stark]

I was able to swap the front end out with Belltech springs and struts for an alleged 3" drop, but the rear is turning out to be a real doozy. It's looking like I'll need to replace the leaf's on both sides if I can't get these bolts off.

It's mainly the front bolts that are not wanting to back out even after the nut is off. Long story short, I ended up having to cut the bolt off with a sawzaw, and wrestle the spring out of the hanger (after some pounding with a punch). Good thing is, I'm able to replace the old rusty bolts with fresh new ones. The bad part is having to buy new sawzaw blades and springs. I tried reusing the old spring that I did manage to get off, but when I tried to undo the nut to flip it, it snapped off, so I said F it: new spring it is.

And here I thought flipping springs was going to be an easy project. It's a good thing this is not my daily anymore.

Any pointers on how to get these front bolts off that doesn't involve a torch or a sawzaw? I'm all out of ideas.

 

[pjtoledo]

pics please so we can best recommend a way to further screw it up.

I'm in the rust belt and have struggled with a few of those spring bolts.

 

[gaz]

Isk,

To get the front spring perch bolts out of leaf springs, I remove all the weigh of the vehicle off the axle, remove the wheels then douse both the front and rear leaf soring bolts with penetrating oil. Let that sit and do it's thing, then do it again.

Once adequately lubricated, I usually start with the rear (did I just say that???). Once the shackle is loose the front bolt seems more manageble.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Worst case, cut the head of the bolt off. Buy a bunch of washers and a new non-locking nut and put as many washers as you can under the nut. Tighten the nut until 1/4-1/2" threads show. Remove nut and add washers. Tighten nut. Rinse and repeat until shank of bolt comes loose.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

We have a saying around here: "Prepare the grinder".

 

[Uncle Gump]

Not sure I ever did springs that didn't put up a fight... but the rust belt does that. I've known a couple spring guys over the years... a cutting torch is like an additional appendage for them.

They make greaseable bushings if you choose to go that route when/if you have to replace spring bushings. Make future service of springs go easier.

 

[snoranger]

Whenever we do anything leaf spring related at work, we torch the Ubolts and the frame mounts off.... Then we replace everything from the frame out.

 

[pjtoledo]

Worst case, cut the head of the bolt off. Buy a bunch of washers and a new non-locking nut and put as many washers as you can under the nut. Tighten the nut until 1/4-1/2" threads show. Remove nut and add washers. Tighten nut. Rinse and repeat until shank of bolt comes loose.

in addition, use a hardened & flanged nut. apply grease to everything.
be sure the washers are small enough to fully contact the steel sleeve around the bolt.
it would help if the first washer is hardened. they will easily get chewed up.

most of the sleeves that contact the bolt have a slit, see if you can jam a sacrificial screwdriver in there to open the gap.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

in addition, use a hardened & flanged nut. apply grease to everything.
be sure the washers are small enough to fully contact the steel sleeve around the bolt.
it would help if the first washer is hardened. they will easily get chewed up.

most of the sleeves that contact the bolt have a slit, see if you can jam a sacrificial screwdriver in there to open the gap.

Thanks Pete.
All very good points I forgot to include.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Everything is a real project

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Sawzall the bolts, hole saw the bushings out, air hammer the bushing shells out. Press in new bushings.

Or sawzall the bolts and replace the springs.

When I did mine I ripped one of the bushing inserts free of the rubber which dialed it up to 11.

I now have greasable bolts for everything that moves in the rear suspension.

 

[Isk Stark]

Apparently, I started a build thread long, long ago, so there is an update: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/project-eco-mod-rat-sleeper-4-banger-thing.174127/

 

[don4331]

Air hammer is what the local spring shop uses to remove bolts. Work OK for front mounts, by if replacing the shackles, the rear are hard to access.

Spring shops solution is to cut the rivets holding the bracket to the frame - which gives them access, the hammer the bolt out. Cost of a couple bolts is less than the time to fight with it.​