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Fire poker


James Morse

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Sharky

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heat will loosen loctite after a while
 

James Morse

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"serving suggestion"
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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I think at this point I’d be inclined to just make my own. We had two sets at our old house, not sure where they ended up after the move but ended up with a cheap set on clearance at Target at one point. The poker is just a length of like maybe 5/16” rod, has a short , sharp 90* bent on the business end and a makeshift handle on the other. Actually kinda prefer it over the traditional hook and spike that sometimes doesn’t let a log roll enough because the spike is in the way, or trying to hook something stuck against the back.
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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The ones I used to have were probably 1/2" rod (maybe a bit smaller, but not much), they'd curl the top into a little circle, then bend the bottom at a right angle and flatten it out and shape it so it's a bit pointy at the end but not sharp. That's the kind I always had as a kid then had exact same kind later but where it is now who knows, things get "lost" in divorces, heck, the whole papa bear wood stove got "lost". Compared to using a stick, this little one works great, but, I agree it's not ideal - you have stated its shortcomings exactly.
So if you have a forge or way to head up the rod and bend it you are all set. The ones I looked at that were more like what I remember were outrageous price, so, for the price, this is a lot better than nothing, but you're totally right it's not what I'd get in the ideal world. I just don't have but rare need for forge and tools so I never got the stuff, plus then it's taking up shop space all the time so just not worth it.
What I want to do long term is run the gas line and water out there and put in an actual gas furnace with a/c unit, and then it can have a humidifier as well because in the winter it can get horribly dry, more so than I like it for woodworking (or comfort). In summer a/c dehumidifies. Anyway, that's a pretty penny to set it up right even if you do some of it. My shop is 24x32 with open ceiling, which I kind of like, while realizing it's totally not efficient. The little Reginald 101 stove I have puts out maybe 50k BTU - maybe more - if it's running flat out, which means feeding a fair amount of wood, and often you're doing something and ignore it... it's really undersized for the space, 100k BTU would be about right. Wood stoves are cozy but I'd like something where I could have it on a timed thermostat and have it all warmed up in the morning instead of spending time messing with the stove. They say heating with wood heats you 7 times. Especially, if you cut it, load it, haul it, and even if not, you still have to stack it, then get it and bring it in and load it, then you have to take out the ashes. I think one of those old New England poets said "every man looks on his wood pile with affection"; there's no doubt if you heat with wood you like seeing a goodly amount of stacked dry wood ready for the winter.
I'm happy at this point to just have a shop, I worked on my vehicles without one for decades so I really appreciate it even if it's not all I'd like yet.
I might get a decent small anvil, when I make tuning pins I use ISO nails and flatten the tops, but you don't have to heat them for that, it's soft enough you can just shape them with a good steel mallet. I've done it without the anvil, but it makes everything harder when you don't have a nice smooth surface shaped the right way. The little anvils on big vises aren't good, and rail isn't really good. It has to be moounted, I think, so it doesn't move at all. I've seen huge ones mounted on a big piece of tree trunk, I don't need that, but I do need something, I need something like this: they are expensive
Cliff Carroll Anvil 35 lb (centaurforge.com)
 
Last edited:

lil_Blue_Ford

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I’ve wanted my own forge and anvil for a long time. A good anvil seems to be hard to come by for a reasonable price. Just saw one the other night that was BROKEN (the entire back of it from the square hole back was snapped off) and they still wanted like $500 for it. Ridiculous.

I’m not really looking to be a blacksmith, I just would like it all for when I need to fabricate something out of metal for my own use. So far I mostly get by using a torch and hammer, but it would be nice to have some more efficient gear, sometimes the torch is just way too concentrated heat for what I’m trying to form and a forge would work far better.
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
Yes for 500 you should be able to get something nice new, there are a lot in that price range fairly decent size in that link I put. They also have coal, coke, and gas forges. Probably lots of sources, this was just one recommended to me.
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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Yes for 500 you should be able to get something nice new, there are a lot in that price range fairly decent size in that link I put. They also have coal, coke, and gas forges. Probably lots of sources, this was just one recommended to me.
My concern with that anvil you posted is that they don’t really specify any details about its construction and the pictures it sort of looks to be a cast anvil, aka an ASO (Anvil Shaped Object). ASO‘s aren’t the tough steel that will last for a long time, but rather soft cast iron, sometimes with a hardened face, but still borderline dangerous. A good test is to hit the face of an anvil with a hammer, it should have a sharp ring and bounce. Cast ASO’s will be a dull sound and not much bounce.
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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4WD
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31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
Um, yeah, I cannot speak to that so you would have to write and ask them if they didn't specify. There are about 5 mfg and that one I showed is a really small one because that's what I need but might not be the one I eventually get. Thanks for pointing that out about the material. I need it to be really hard (not easily deformable) because every defect on the surface of the anvil will show up on my tuning pin heads so that's a no-go if it deforms easily. I assume the dangerous part is they chip or break?
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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Um, yeah, I cannot speak to that so you would have to write and ask them if they didn't specify. There are about 5 mfg and that one I showed is a really small one because that's what I need but might not be the one I eventually get. Thanks for pointing that out about the material. I need it to be really hard (not easily deformable) because every defect on the surface of the anvil will show up on my tuning pin heads so that's a no-go if it deforms easily. I assume the dangerous part is they chip or break?
Yeah, as I understand it, the good anvils have a small extra hard section, the little flat strip where it transitions to the horn. And my understanding of the ASO’s is that under heavy use it’s closer to explodes.
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L in XLT, 3.0L in B3000
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
well before I get anything I"ll be sure to check this out, thanks.
 

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