Finally have to pull the trans.

[9723]

Bellhousing bolts.
I've been able to get the tops with a box end wrench from the top, tapping with a mallet to break it loose. You'll have to crawl up in there on top of the engine to really get at it.


What I've done more often, especially on V6's, is use several extensions on a ratchet or breaker bar and just go up over the top of trans with the extensions. This may be a problem for you, since you don't want to lower the mission until you get the bell bolts. If you get the jack under the mission, pull the rear crossmember, lower the mission a little, it's almost a straight (but long) shot to the upper bell bolts.

I may end up having to drop the trans a little, but I want to try with just the long box-end first. Ordered one from HomDep.

Thanks, appreciate the advice!

 

[RobbieD]

Good luck.

If, and when, you lower the transmission and it's still mated to the engine, be sure to check that the fan doesn't get jacked by contacting the radiator shroud. If needed, just unbolt (2 bolts) and let the shroud "float".

 

[9723]

Good luck.

If, and when, you lower the transmission and it's still mated to the engine, be sure to check that the fan doesn't get jacked by contacting the radiator shroud. If needed, just unbolt (2 bolts) and let the shroud "float".

I'll keep that in mind. I ordered two wrenches. A very long 12 and 13mm double box and a fairly long combo with reversible gear head swivel box on one end. Says "high torque". Ship to store....could still take a week, and I'll get the right sized pipe for breaking torque, when I go pick it up.

I never fuss much about buying tools.

 

[9723]

Looking at this more......there are two obstructions between the top in the bay and the transmission. The highest (white arrow top left) is a harness of some sort going to the heater system. I'd have to undo a lot to move that. Doesn't seem like I could get behind it. It branches out and goes several places. I'm not even sure I could lower the engine without taking it apart.

A bit lower (white arrow bottom left) this is some kind of hose. I didn't try to look and see what it is, but it's also in the way.

I can put my fingers on the top bolts from underneath, but that's about all. I'll see what those long wrenches will do for me, but I also have to consider....how the heck I'm going to put it back together.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

....how the heck I'm going to put it back together

That's what child labor is for... lol

 

[9723]

That's what child labor is for... lol

Unfortunately, that's me. Went back out there just now....so I'm down to just the top two bolts.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I've used a ratcheting swivel 13mm to get at those bolts on a 4.0l. It is a pain tho.

 

[RobbieD]

With removing the crossmember and lowering the transmission tail, the engine and transmission as a unit will pivot on the motor mounts, Things closer to the center of the pivoting point won't have to move as much as the things away from the pivot point- that's why the trans drops enough to expose the upper bellhousing bolts (and why you have watch the fan).

It doesn't take that much drop (or tilting down, rather) of the transmission to expose the bell bolts. Just take your time, go slow and keep an eye on things up top.

 

[9723]

With removing the crossmember and lowering the transmission tail, the engine and transmission as a unit will pivot on the motor mounts, Things closer to the center of the pivoting point won't have to move as much as the things away from the pivot point- that's why the trans drops enough to expose the upper bellhousing bolts (and why you have watch the fan).

It doesn't take that much drop (or tilting down, rather) of the transmission to expose the bell bolts. Just take your time, go slow and keep an eye on things up top.

You might be right, but I think I'd have to change my jack adapter....and doesn't that twist the engine mounts a bit? The bushings?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The bushings will twist, but not enough to hurt them.

 

[9723]

I think I'd have to put the side bolts back in, then lower it enough to get the top bolts out...and raise it back up (mostly) to remove the side bolts.

 

[9723]

If I put two side bolts and two bottom bolts back in, I could lower it via one jack under the transmission, right?

Then raising it back up, put the jack back under the engine and remove all the remaining bolts....

 

[RobbieD]

If the transmission is well secured to your floor jack, once the engine and trans is lowered / tilted down enough to access the top bell bolts, get all of the bell bolts removed and simply roll the floor jack rearward, slightly lowering the jack as needed.

When the mission separates from the engine, you'll need about a half to an inch movement of the mission straight away from the engine, to let the two bell-to-engine hollow dowels clear, and to let the mission's input shaft clear the pilot bearing in the crank.

In some cases, I've put wood scraps between an appropriate place on the upper engine and the firewall, to steady or limit the engine's movement.

The main thing is to secure the mission to your jack. I would NOT trust the transmission to just hang there, without any bellhousing bolts or without being supported by a jack or other means. Once the mission is on the jack and secured good, the engine won't go anywhere, and you're in control of the transmission movements.

By trial and error (plenty of the second, I might add), that's what I've found that works best for me. You'll get it, just don't rush it. May the Force be with you, and Good luck!

 

[9723]

If the transmission is well secured to your floor jack, once the engine and trans is lowered / tilted down enough to access the top bell bolts, get all of the bell bolts removed and simply roll the floor jack rearward, slightly lowering the jack as needed.

When the mission separates from the engine, you'll need about a half to an inch movement of the mission straight away from the engine, to let the two bell-to-engine hollow dowels clear, and to let the mission's input shaft clear the pilot bearing in the crank.

In some cases, I've put wood scraps between an appropriate place on the upper engine and the firewall, to steady or limit the engine's movement.

The main thing is to secure the mission to your jack. I would NOT trust the transmission to just hang there, without any bellhousing bolts or without being supported by a jack or other means. Once the mission is on the jack and secured good, the engine won't go anywhere, and you're in control of the transmission movements.

By trial and error (plenty of the second, I might add), that's what I've found that works best for me. You'll get it, just don't rush it. May the Force be with you, and Good luck!

I don't have your experience. I think I have to take a straight forward approach...not trying to do it all at once. I'm mean... keep the bottom and side bolts in while undoing the top bolts (just the trans jack). Then raise it nearly all the way back, put the engine jack back under the oil pan and undo the rest of the bolts (two jacks). Then start backing out the trans while nearly level.

 

[RobbieD]

I'm pretty sure that you'll find that it has to be angled down, for the top of the mission bell to clear the firewall / cab floor sheet metal.

Gotta run to work; catch you on the flip.