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Finally have to pull the trans.


9723

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I'm pretty sure that you'll find that it has to be angled down, for the top of the mission bell to clear the firewall / cab floor sheet metal.

Gotta run to work; catch you on the flip.
So I have to lower two jacks at the same time.

....and cut some wedges for the angle.
 


Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: 70D65189E6D8FF: January 5th, 2022

alwaysFlOoReD

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I've used ratchet straps to support the trans when I didnt trust the jack to hold it. Just need to get a little creative on where the anchor points are.
 

9723

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I just wanna make sure nothing can move when I don't want it too, especially while I'm undoing the two upper bolts.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Depending how strong you are, you can manhandle those trans into and out of position manually. I used to be able to but arthritis limits me now.
Just saying that it isnt going to kill if it drops or shifts. But it could cause serious injury.
You are right in thinking this thru and asking questions. Eventually you will come up with a plan of attack that suits you and your abilities.
Good luck.
I have faith in you.
 

9723

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Depending how strong you are, you can manhandle those trans into and out of position manually. I used to be able to but arthritis limits me now.
Just saying that it isnt going to kill if it drops or shifts. But it could cause serious injury.
You are right in thinking this thru and asking questions. Eventually you will come up with a plan of attack that suits you and your abilities.
Good luck.
I have faith in you.

I know you haven't read much of the thread and that's fine, I appreciate all the advice. I am 66, 140 lbs and had a number of career related injuries... including my hands. I can't grab on to anything with any real strength. Both thumbs ruined. That's why I'm trying to be extremely careful. I cant manhandle anything. But all advice is appreciated.

I had to give up my motorcycles at 59 because I couldn't hold on to the handlebars for very long (thumbs hurt).
 
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9723

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Loosened the fan shroud. Put 4 trans/engine bolts back...the easy ones. Put my jack under the trans, removed the nuts at the bottom of the rear trans mount, broke loose the outer bolts on the cross-member....decided I'd better secure the jack straps. That wasn't as simple or easy as I'd hoped. I must've crawled out to go back and forth to the other side 30 times. One strap secured with about 80-90% confidence. ... couldn't get a second one on further forward. Won't be able to until I lower the trans for the top bolts.
 

9723

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I've got the trans lowered 1" at the jack, but had to stop and call my battery dealer when i know he's there answering phones.

Using two jacks, which is probably unnecessary as I've got 4 bolts into the bottom of the trans. I'm just going after the 2 top bolts, then I'll raise it back up and undo the bottom 4. That way I'll only lower the trans just enough to get it out. No more , no less, which I don't know.
 

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My credo
Toonces drives a Ranger . . . . just not very well.
You're making good progress. Once the trans separates from the engine, it should be pretty straightforward, as far as seeing how the transmission needs to go, to get it clear of truck.
 

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You're making good progress. Once the trans separates from the engine, it should be pretty straightforward, as far as seeing how the transmission needs to go, to get it clear of truck.
I took a look after lowering it that much. NO FRICKIN WAY to get to the passenger side upper bolt without either removing the fender well or CAT section of the exhaust. I chose the CAT section. I knew I'd have to anyway to check or fix the cross-threaded oxygen sensor I had problems taking out.

The driver's side, I'd already put my fingers on, a couple days ago. Might get a delivery tomorrow that requires my full attention. So it could be a couple more days..........................................................................
 

9723

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Nope, can't get the passenger side upper bolt with a socket.

The engine is as low as possible. I've got this piece of equipment against the firewall fairly tight.



(Below) I can get the short swivel extension w/socket on (at the limit of its angle), but not another extension of any type or length. The body is in the way. The 13mm combo goes on with plenty of room, but I can't break the torque. The other two box-end wrenches that are progressively longer.....I should have them by Monday. It appears to me that the note in the Haynes manual, that says on some models the fenderwell must be removed, is this model Ranger. The ratchet gear head 13mm coming is about a foot long and will protrude into the fenderwell, but not by much, so I'm hoping not to be forced to remove it. The other wrench is a regular combo about 9-10 inches long. That might work........one or the other. I didn't see any point in trying the driver's side bolt. It's possible that the socket would go on without any extension, but that seems like it'd be very problematic. So I'm going to wait for the other wrenches.

 
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Shran

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What I use... a very long 3/8 extension that I got from Harbor Freight, and a 13mm swivel impact socket. If you remove the trans crossmember and let the trans droop down as far as it can, you can get ALL of the bellhousing bolts fairly easily. I leave one of the driver's side, side bolts threaded in but loose throughout this process to keep the trans from sliding backwards once the rest of the bolts are removed.
 

9723

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What I use... a very long 3/8 extension that I got from Harbor Freight, and a 13mm swivel impact socket. If you remove the trans crossmember and let the trans droop down as far as it can, you can get ALL of the bellhousing bolts fairly easily. I leave one of the driver's side, side bolts threaded in but loose throughout this process to keep the trans from sliding backwards once the rest of the bolts are removed.
Thanks, I did all that....but don't have that swivel. I should have my long box-ends this weekend.

I can only order (ship) so many tools. It takes a week or longer, but thanks for the suggestion.

The '97, 2.3L along with it's 8 sparkplugs is an odd Ranger and has some differences from other Rangers.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Just in case you dont know...
To make an extension for your wrench. Put another box end wrench over the open end. Make sure they are in a straight line when pulling or pushing or the second wrench will suddenly go sideways.
 

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Thanks, I did all that....but don't have that swivel. I should have my long box-ends this weekend.

I can only order (ship) so many tools. It takes a week or longer, but thanks for the suggestion.

The '97, 2.3L along with it's 8 sparkplugs is an odd Ranger and has some differences from other Rangers.
A normal swivel and a 13mm socket works too, I just prefer the impact swivel because they don't fold over easily if you really push them hard. The long extension/swivel works on any Ranger, I have definitely used it on trucks like yours before :icon_thumby:

A 13mm flex head gear wrench is also a very helpful tool for our trucks. Starter bolts, bellhousing bolts, lots of stuff under the hood... that one size is very handy.
 

9723

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A normal swivel and a 13mm socket works too, I just prefer the impact swivel because they don't fold over easily if you really push them hard. The long extension/swivel works on any Ranger, I have definitely used it on trucks like yours before :icon_thumby:

A 13mm flex head gear wrench is also a very helpful tool for our trucks. Starter bolts, bellhousing bolts, lots of stuff under the hood... that one size is very handy.
I've broken 2, 3/8s swivels in the last couple years trying to break torque, so I don't use them for that any more. My 1/2" swivel won't fit in there. I'm just going to pick up the other wrenches in the morning...see what happens.

That impact swivel is much stronger. I broke a Craftsman and a Proto swivels.
 


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