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Finally have to pull the trans.

RobbieD

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My credo
Toonces drives a Ranger . . . . just not very well.
"There's a great future in plastics. Think about it. Will you think about it?"

They just don't make good movies anymore . . .
 


9723

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Yes, both the master and slave cylinders are made two ways these days. I have seen it claimed that the plastics are just as good, but I make it point to only use the cast aluminum versions.

Ain't technology great?
If plastic is what's in there now, it lasted at least 20 years. That's long enough, I'll be 86.....or dead, haha hopefully.
 

Dirtman

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It's up there.
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Have you put that dang transmission back where it came from yet?!
 

9723

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Have you put that dang transmission back where it came from yet?!
Been waiting on parts in the mail. I'll have the rear main (engine) seal Monday. Then I'll be putting it all back together.
 
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9723

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If you don't have any leaks or seepage from the top cover, front plate or tail shaft housing, then I wouldn't go any deeper into the transmission.....
My Ranger has been an oily mess since before I got it. Engine, trans....at the bottom. I expect it's the oil pan. Big mess, can't tell what's leaking or not. I had to watch it carefully when I was trekking across from West Texas to Corpus Christi to work on my boat, even then a quart a month. Now that I'm only putting on a 1000 miles a year, it's very rare I need to put any in.... poor practice, I know. I wouldn't even consider trying to clean that in my garage.

If I remember, I looked at what it took to remove the oil pan, what? I didn't think about that very long.
 
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9723

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Being awake at 4am, I started looking around for some piece of metal that would fit into the pilot bearing. I found a long bolt in one of my coil spring compressors that almost fit, but it was just a tiny bit to big. I was able to thread it into the bearing a little, so not to mess up the bearing, but enough to catch the threads. Then I used my tie-rod fork so I could tap backwards on the bolt with my hammer. I could get 4-5 taps with a little force before the bolt would slip out. Enough force that I thought the bearing should move at least a little.

Nope, not even a hair.

Getting the right size bolt isn't much of an option so I'll sand on a portion of a hatchet handle I have today....and go get some cheap bread. If this doesn't work and it may not considering my experiment this morning, I'll have to order a pilot bearing puller.... another 10 day delay.
 

9723

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Well somethin' went right, but took a bit of effort. I chose this wood because I knew it would stand up to some pounding (and I had it on hand), and it took some heavy hammer strikes. I didn't use my 15 amp grinder, but this one instead....'cause the 15amp is not for delicate work and I wanted this to be as close to the ID of the bearing as possible. I sanded it pretty well, but a trick I learned from extensive use of these grinders is to put a 5" disk on a 4.5" grinder. It gives you more flexibility and finer control at the edge.



So this is the result of wood and bread. It didn't come off easy and I had to hit it hard enough that a softer wood.....would have splintered or deformed. Hatchet or axe handles are quite hard.



I guess driving the new bearing in, will take the right size deep socket. The drive side of an impact socket...nice and flat.
.
 
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Dirtman

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It's down there.
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Now go make a sandwich to celebrate your accomplishment!
 

9723

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Now go make a sandwich to celebrate your accomplishment!
Grinding the wood was really my only option....or I would've had to drive 95 miles to put the right bolt in my hand. Or mail order one. So this was my best option.
 
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RobbieD

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Good work on fabbing a removal driver, and glad to see that it worked so well.
 

9723

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Good work on fabbing a removal driver, and glad to see that it worked so well.
Thanks, I was worried it was stuck on there (a little blue color on the end of the input shaft, heat). It was some, but quite a few heavy hammer strikes got it done. I wouldn't been as willing to hit a steel bolt so hard.
 
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9723

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I've got my rear main seal, but I think I should go ahead and install the master cylinder and line get before continuing with putting it all back....except I should probably remove the original slave/throw-out and get a look at the input shaft seal too.

The book and alldata has some of this. Any tips are appreciated.
 
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RobbieD

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You know that you should bench-bleed the master and slave cylinders before installation, right?
 

9723

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You know that you should bench-bleed the master and slave cylinders before installation, right?
The slave and line kit I purchased is prefilled. I didn't feel like messing with it, but the video shows the slave being "gravity" filled after the rest is installed, yes?

....and I'm not getting into the master and line kit till tomorrow morning, so a little investigation.....today.

I took out the slave to look at the seal under neath, first:

I'd say the old one was pretty worn out. Something in the system changed the way the pedal actuated the clutch.........the oil on the end of the old slave is just a bit of grease I put on the end of the input shaft after I pulled the trans.



The input shaft seal looks dry and fine, but..........



There is oil residue all over the bottom passenger side of the bell housing. This could be the seal "block" leaking, but I think it is most likely oil coming thru the hole for the starter, which the starter IS quite oily.



Opinions appreciated!
 
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Dirtman

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Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
My credo
I poop in the furnace.
You know that you should bench-bleed the master and slave cylinders before installation, right?
Most of them come pre-bled these days.
 

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