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Finally have to pull the trans.

Paulos

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That's great for applications with the bearing in the flywheel, but the OP's situation is different.
If that's the case, he's right. The input shaft is about 9/16" OD.
 


9723

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I always use a particular 9/16" socket that I have. The pilot bearing is mounted in the flywheel, so changing it when the flywheel is removed for resurfacing is easy. The OD of the bearing is 21mm or 53/64", so a little less than that works great.
My pilot bearing is in the crankshaft. Flywheel is off already... apparently all the 2.3s were this way.
 

9723

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If that's the case, he's right. The input shaft is about 9/16" OD.
I measured the ID with my caliper to do the bread trick. About 9/16s or 14mm "inside" diameter.

I'll probably try a 1/2" hardwood dowel first....the only thing I can get without mail ordering. Maybe I can glue some flashing on to it.
 
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9723

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I did the bread trick to remove my pilot bearing. I used a 3/8” socket extension if I remember correctly. Whatever it was, it worked like a dream.
The large end?

I just checked. If you used the male end of a 3/8" extenson, then a 1/2" hardwood dowel would probably work well. I already can assume mine's going to be a pain...like a few other things on my truck, it hasn't been touched in over 20 years. I've only done a few things it needed since I've owned it. I got it in 2001 with 104k miles. I've put 65k miles on it in 20 years. The advantage of having a number of vehicles to yourself, not anyone of them gets worn out....if you take care of them. But eventually still, you have to do what I'm doing now.
 
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RobbieD

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You could just whittle or sand a wooden dowel down to fit snug inside the bearing. All it is is a "piston" that compresses the grease or bread, so it has to pretty much fill the ID of bearing. The grease or bread will just blow past a too-small driving tool.

Hopefully yours will come right out. Mine wouldn't, using the grease trick. On mine, a pilot bearing puller tool was not that expensive, and it yanked the stubborn bearing right out.

Once the bearing's out, be sure to clean up the hole in the crank, like polishing it out with a piece of Scotch pad (by hand), and then flushing it with a solvent, like brake cleaner.

Good luck!
 

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^^^ whittle a stick. It doesnt have to be hardwood or perfectly round.
 

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Mine was most likely the original, in there for 35 years. I was shocked at how easily it came out. Maybe I was lucky. I think I used the male end of the extension. You can probably get away with a looser fit with the bread than grease.
 

9723

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Great information guys. I appreciate it. I think I'll do this before putting in the main seal.
 

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I'm working on my other project...final soldering, waiting for the rest of the parts to come is. I'll stop everything and finish.

But....what kind of seal is under the throw-out/slave (around the input shaft), in this trans? How hard is it to replace?
 
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RobbieD

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I haven't changed a front input shaft seal, because I've never had one leak enough to worry about.

For preventative maintenance on the M5OD while I've had it out for a clutch, I have removed the front plate to check the oil slinger, and pulled the top cover to inspect the internal parts, and to clean any trash from the oil trough (a plastic oil guide). In both cases, these items needed resealing anyway to fix small fluid leaks (I used RTV silicone gasket maker to reinstall both, although there is a o-ring type gasket for the top cover, I think).

I believe that you already have, and planned on, replacing the rubber shift rail plugs with freeze plugs. Highly recommended.

Hopefully others with more experience inside these missions will weigh in on your replacing the input shaft seal.

You're getting there.
 

9723

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I haven't changed a front input shaft seal, because I've never had one leak enough to worry about.

For preventative maintenance on the M5OD while I've had it out for a clutch, I have removed the front plate to check the oil slinger, and pulled the top cover to inspect the internal parts, and to clean any trash from the oil trough (a plastic oil guide). In both cases, these items needed resealing anyway to fix small fluid leaks (I used RTV silicone gasket maker to reinstall both, although there is a o-ring type gasket for the top cover, I think).

I believe that you already have, and planned on, replacing the rubber shift rail plugs with freeze plugs. Highly recommended.

Hopefully others with more experience inside these missions will weigh in on your replacing the input shaft seal.

You're getting there.
Yes thanks, I have the freeze plugs.
"top cover to inspect the internal parts, and to clean any trash from the oil trough (a plastic oil guide)"??????????

I have to make a decision about how far to go right now (what is critical). I have some other house maintenance chores that are very important. Little bit of roof and facia on my well house (already did the South half). Some painting while it's warm. I have to decide even if it means pulling the trans again in a couple years, or doing everything right now and letting my house maintenance suffer. I'm leaning toward doing what I've got and finishing so I can do the house chores. Doesn't sound like the end seals and the rest would be quick or easy. Probably will order a new starter to go on the new flywheel, but as that'll be one of the last things I put on, it'll get here at about the right time.

Got the master cylinder and line kit coming today and the rear main seal coming in a couple days.
If I want 10 or 12 foot facia, I need the Ranger to pick up that length boards.
 
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RobbieD

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If you don't have any leaks or seepage from the top cover, front plate or tail shaft housing, then I wouldn't go any deeper into the transmission. Do put the freeze plugs into the shift rail bores. And, the oil through I mentioned is metal, not plastic. Damn old age and CRS!

Here's that oil trough; see the trash in lower end? Mine was mainly little gasket pieces and RTV boogers.
63686
 

9723

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If you don't have any leaks or seepage from the top cover, front plate or tail shaft housing, then I wouldn't go any deeper into the transmission. Do put the freeze plugs into the shift rail bores. And, the oil through I mentioned is metal, not plastic. Damn old age and CRS!
Here's that oil trough; see the trash in lower end? Mine was mainly little gasket pieces and RTV boogers.
Thanks for the info and image. I can use that when I get around to that part.

I did get the push-rod.

That master cylinder is PLASTIC?
 
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RobbieD

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That master cylinder is PLASTIC?
Yes, both the master and slave cylinders are made two ways these days. I have seen it claimed that the plastics are just as good, but I make it point to only use the cast aluminum versions.

Ain't technology great?
 

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Plastic is the future!!!!
 

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