Finally got a chance to check the mileage with the Ranger's current engine..

[baddad457]

Roller shortblock from a 93 E150 van, F4TE cam with Cobra 1.7 rockers, ported E7's (done by you know who) Ford A321 intake, Holley 570 SA (run as is out of the box, but with a lighter sec. spring) Tri-Y's, dual 2.25" exhaust out the rear with an equalizer pipe between the headers and mufflers. SROD 4 speed transmission, 3.73 rear with 275/60/15's. Driven hard three trips to work, half is I49 interstate highway(run at 70-80 mph), the other is stop and go 4 lane highway The rear tires were low on the first leg (one had 10psi, the other had 20) Motor has been together for 4 years now, spark plugs are 3 years old and look like they just came out of the box on the cylinder end (mixture is as perfect as it gets, even if it had EFI) Averaged 14 mpg. I'm certain it could go up to 16-17 if I could keep the speeds down to the 70 mph limit. Not bad for a truck with the areodynamics of a brick on a carbed motor. The SROD's 4th gear sounds like a grinder as does 2nd (only not as bad) Looking for a replacement as we speak.

 

[Teddyzee]

That's decent. With an overdrive trans, you'd be very similar to either of the 4.0 Rangers. I generally quote my milieage as being "windows up" or "windows down". I get 16 with the latter. (same as my 4.0OHV when I drove the snot out of it)

 

[RangerFabWorks]

nice, i just have one question baddad, why only the 570 carb? is it because of the lower cubes?

i would think you would run a 600cfm, but apparently you know something i dont because it sounds like it runs perfect for ya.

way to go man!!

 

[baddad457]

I built a 600 back when I first put this motor together using a std 1850 600 with dual feed bowls from a 750 (always liked the looks of the center hung bowls better) and it replaced a modified 650 DP Holley. This motor ran stronger with the vaccum secondaries over the 650 DP carb. But in the time this motor was out of the Ranger (while the 331 3x 2 was in it) my son sold that 600 to a buddy who bolted it on a 383 Chevy. I offered to swap him a 3310 750 for the 600, but he changed his mind after I bought the 750. So I ran it on the motor untill I found the 570 on ebay (paid $150 for it) The 750 ran OK, but just not as good as the 570 has. I've learned over the past few years that a smaller carb just plain works better on the street. If it were for a dedicated race motor, I'd go with a larger carb. Holley doesn't make a dual feed VS 600 (they used to), they do make a 650 though (list 80783)

 

[RangerFabWorks]

right, i forgot you use holley.

ive never cared for holley as they always flood and have hesitation problems no matter how much i tune them, ive use 650s and 570s and just never seemed to get it right.

thats why i use edelbrock. never give me a lick of trouble. but hey to each his own right?

nice setup!!

 

[fordmike1]

right, i forgot you use holley.

ive never cared for holley as they always flood and have hesitation problems no matter how much i tune them.
nice setup!!

Wow I have always used Holleys and have had nothing but great luck with them. We built a 71 Maverick and had a Edelbrock on it and it ran great but we switched it for a Holley 650dp and woke the car right up with better throttle responce, better 60' and quater times. I am not knocking the Edelbrock but the holley's were easier to tune and gave the best performance.

 

[Teddyzee]

We built a 71 Maverick ...

I want... !

 

[Capt Jay]

For off road use, the autolite carb is the way to go. It works at any and all angles. Holley's flood out with high pitch angles and edelbrock has problem with roll angles. A well built stock carb is the next best thing to F.I. when off road. Street? Not my realm.

 

[Psychopete]

Been seriously considering a Holley street avenger 570cfm for my setup and kicked around the idea of installing some oxygen sensors so I can get a feel for tuning it in good. Interesting that this came up. The carb I have on mine now isn't right - I don't trust it given who I bought it off of a long time ago, I want something new so that I know it's right out of the box and everything is factory for this coming spring. Dies when you turn in the idle adjustment screw all of the way on the drivers side, but not the passenger and runs rich. Not an old pro with these carbs. I know a lot of people that swear by Edelbrock though too, guess it just all depends on preference.

Pete

 

[baddad457]

Take it apart, remove the metering block, remove the power valve and mixture screws, then blow spray carb cleaner (wear eye protection) & then compressed air thru all the tiny passages and verify all are clear. Bet you've got a tiny piece of trash in a passage somewhere. Replace the powervalve with a new one (all the chain parts houses stock the gaskets & powervalves in the HP parts sections) I bought the 570 off ebay and only changed the powervalve in the cleanup before bolting it on the motor. The 750 I mentioned previously was one of those "damned Hollleys that won't stay in tune" When I got it home from the local speed shop I noticed several things in disassembly. One was the red mud clogging the primary fuel inlet filter. Next was the trash in the main bowl. Then noticed the secondary filter was clean as a whistle. All this told the story. The previous owner never ran a fuel filter before the carb and never took the time to tune it to where the secondaries would open. He ditched it when it quit from a lack of fuel in the primary bowl. Cleaned it, replaced the powervalve and accellerator pump diaphram, put it back together and ran it for over a year till the 570 showed up.

 

[Psychopete]

Take it apart

You've convinced me to take a stab at it this weekend. Might have a couple questions on where to set that idle adjustments screws to factory and if the jets are factory or satisfactory for my engine combo. Who knows. I think it's a 4160, but I need to get out there and take a look to be sure. It's cold out and I've been sicker than hell, just starting to get better.

Pete

 

[zukirider21]

It works at any and all angles.

any idea on what kinda hp an autolite 4100 can support? your point that you bring up about the angular stability is VERY appealing to me. and ive heard from numerous people that the giant annular boosters are pretty serious equipment for oem. i just want to be able to still have a moderately hot street motor, too, when all is said and done.

 

[baddad457]

The Autolite 4100 came in two flavors.........480 and 600 cfm. The biggest 2100 was the very rare 1.33 bore model at 424 cfm. "Moderately hot" as in what ? My 331 pulls about 365 cfm thru a 250 cfm rated Holley 2 bbl at 4500 rpms. So what a carb's rated to flow isn't necessarily what it's going to actually flow in any particular motor. The bigger the engine is pulling air thru it, the more it's going to flow. At worst, the carb you choose will only slightly limit the topend if it's too small.

 

[Psychopete]

Take it apart, remove the metering block, remove the power valve and mixture screws, then blow spray carb cleaner (wear eye protection) & then compressed air thru all the tiny passages and verify all are clear.

LOL Took a stab at rebuilding this thing and it came out a complete disaster.

It's now "raining" fuel out of the front venturis. The neighbor had a good laugh standing and watching all of the black some coming out of my tail pipes. It was a massive cloud! Won't idle. I know it's not related, but put the old power valve back in and put in 61s in place of the 72 jets. Same issue, but seemed to get better. Still runs with both idle mixture screws turned all the way in (makes no difference if they're out 1 1/2 turn or in). Need to keep it at like 1/4 throttle to keep it running, and it's missing like crazy. Fuel Pressure is around 7.5PSI. Floats are really low, lowered beyond seeing anything out of the sights. What in the hell did I do wrong?! Leaking internally? Used a Holley kit as well..

 

[baddad457]

Hard to say, but you've obviously put it back together with something missing, or a gasket in the wrong way. If you have the time to be without it, I'd just say send it to me and I'll straighen it out. The mixture screw thing is caused by the 1/4 opening of the throttle blades, close the throttle all the way shut, then just crack it open. Reset the mixture screws back to 1-1/2 turns out from fully closed. With the throttle that far open, you've uncovered the transfer slots and gotten it into the main metering circuit, rendering the mixture screws unresponsive. These are the idle mixture screws, they have no effect once the throttle's opened enough to uncover the transfer slots. If you don't have a Holley manual, buy one and read it, then take the carb back apart, paying attention to what's where as it comes apart, if you're lucky, you'll find what you did wrong in assembling it.