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Father In Law Ranger Help.. Engine Starts, but dies.. P0118, P0175, P0394, P0453


muwaha

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Hey Guys,

So I got some questions on my Father In Law's Ranger.
He has a 2000 4.0 EFI 2WD.

Yesterday morning it worked fine, but yesterday evening it just dragged, then stopped on the road. It starts, but doesn't want to really move.
We got it to the house and I took my OBDII scanner and found that it's throwing P0118, P0175, P0394, P0453.

Symptoms:
-- Engine starts rumbling to where you can feel the vibrations in the cab, and when it's idling, the muffler(as in the whole exhaust from the manifold to the tailpipe) is shaking so much that you can hear it about 100 ft away
-- Engine acts like it's being deprived of gas (or oxygen).
-- When the gas pedal is pressed, it seems to bog down more.
-- water mix with black soot coming out the exhaust.

I am not sure if he's willing to sell it or try to fix it. I figure I try to help the internet help us troubleshoot it to see what he wants to do, If it's cheap enough, he may just fix it, or fix it to a point that it can be traded/sold.
 


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Dirtman

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3 of those codes are for voltage issues to sensors. 1 is for system to rich.

Anytime there are multiple codes with voltage concerns the first thing to check is the battery, alternator, and all cables/connections. Rule out a power issue first by testing all those components.

Next I would check/replace the ECT sensor as that can be causing both the p0118 and p0175 code if it's stuck cold.
 

muwaha

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3 of those codes are for voltage issues to sensors. 1 is for system to rich.

Anytime there are multiple codes with voltage concerns the first thing to check is the battery, alternator, and all cables/connections. Rule out a power issue first by testing all those components.

Next I would check/replace the ECT sensor as that can be causing both the p0118 and p0175 code if it's stuck cold.

Thank you, I've been dealing with mainly electrical wiring to like brake lights, blinkers, etc on my 91 3.0.
What would be the best way to test voltages/continuity when it comes to the sensors?
This is my first time dealing with this type of troubleshooting, so I would prefer guidance to not mess it up.
Does the sensors have a certain voltage that gets put into them? If so, what is that limit?
 

Dirtman

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Sensors are 0-5 volt but don't bother checking actual voltage to them yet. Check the actual battery, alternator, and cables to and from the battery and alternator. If there is a problem with the battery or charging system it can cause the computer do all sorts of crazy stuff.

Test the voltage at the battery engine off, engine running, and engine running after 10 minutes and write those voltages down. Then test for continuity through all the battery and alternator cables, should read zero ohms and then test for voltage drop across the cables. The ends of the cables should read the same as battery voltage at the terminals, any drop means the cables are bad or not getting a solid connection.
 

muwaha

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Thank you!
My father in law said that the ECT Sensor was already replaced too. Do you have any other thoughts on that by chance?
 

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Well after you verify the battery and charging system is good you need to find out why those 3 sensors are not reading correctly. The ECT sensor is basically the engines "choke". When it reads cold it dumps more fuel into the engine. That's where the p0175 code is most likely coming from. The engine is stuck in "choke mode" and burning extremely rich. Which also explains the black soot from the exhaust and bogging down.

The other two sensors showing voltage issues are the EVAP pressure sensor and the Cam position sensor. Having 3 sensors with voltage issues like I said is probably a common issue which is almost always battery/connection problems but they could be unrelated. Working on getting the ECT to read properly is the priority in my opinion.
 

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Maybe the new sensor is defective, I'll see if he wants to replace it again, I don't know what brand he got, but maybe I'll see if he wants to try the motorcraft version since it's essentially Ford Approved.
If it's not the sensor directly, then maybe it's the wiring to the sensor is my next guess.
 

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It seems like the truck isn't getting gas even when the gas pedal is pressed. I hear the humming from the Fuel Pump so I know it's at least getting power.
I had a 2000 Sunfire with the same issue, and the Fuel Filter was clogged, so I think he wants to go that route (I don't think it'll hurt anyways).

I'll report back once we get a chance to do some detail troubleshooting.
 

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The p0175 is a rich condition code so it's getting too much fuel. Having too much fuel can act very similar to having too little fuel in that the engine will bog down and feel like it's dying when you press the gas. It's getting flooded. If it was running lean not getting fuel you would have a p0171 or p0174 code.
 

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The p0175 is a rich condition code so it's getting too much fuel. Having too much fuel can act very similar to having too little fuel in that the engine will bog down and feel like it's dying when you press the gas. It's getting flooded. If it was running lean not getting fuel you would have a p0171 or p0174 code.
Okay, I think I've been getting my definition of "rich" and "lean" mixed then lol. My apologies.
So it's not getting enough air. I took the Air Intake off yesterday, but that didn't change anything.

Since I work until 7pm CST, I don't really have time to look at it. I'll be off Sunday and can actually look at it then.
Now that I understand that I've been checking the wrong thing (dummy me), I'll check the sensor and all that.

I am not sure which brand of ECT sensor he replaced, but if I get a new ECT sensor, would Motorcraft be best (only word I can think of right now) to get since it's essentially Ford? or is there another brand better?
 

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seeing as how you have codes for 3 different sensor and they all have voltage issues, you should start by checking battery voltage obviously. then check it again with the engine running. if you get less than 13.5 volts (at a normal idle) your alternator is dying. i dont think either of those 2 things are your problem. consider this... What are the odds of three sensor going bad, all at the same time? slim to almost none. one of those sensors has failed and since they all share the same 5volt ref and signal return it's causing the computer to report all 3 of them. based on how its running I would do what was suggested above and check your ECT (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor). Its a pretty common failure point. if the ect is reporting that its 20 degrees outside and the actual tempurature is in the 80s or 90s it gonna dump TONS of fuel in there because it thinks it needs to. thats gonna cause a black soot carbon cloud to come out the tailpipe. I would bet money that if you test that sensor with an ohm meter, that it is out of spec.
 

muwaha

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I ordered a Motorcraft ECT Sensor from my local autostore.
It'll be in Friday and of course my father in law doesn't know since he is in denial.
I'm still troubleshooting the voltage, the battery is dead now so it's most likely a voltage related issue, just gota see if I can narrow it down.
 

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Ok so I know I am not a mechanic, so I really need some input.

1. I am replacing the thermastat as well as a precaution, when I went to drain the antifreeze, it's red like it's rusty. When I took the old thermastat off, it looks like rust in the engine. Can that be clean/flushed out?

2. I have been doing research on where the ECT Sensor is, and I am not having any luck. I've seen videos of 95, 02-11 Rangers with the 4.0 SOHC, but the engine doesn't look anything like the 4.0 EFI in this 2000.. I don't think the 4.0 EFI was a special engine or something so does anyone have a picture or can explain where the ECT sensor is?

3. I thought the ECT Sensor was on the engine block above the thermastat next to the alternator, but apparently Advance Auto told me that is the ECS (Engine Coolant Switch), and it's cover in the rust particles (I guess that's the best way to describe it).


20210918_120845.jpg20210918_120851.jpg20210918_120948.jpg20210918_131621.jpg



You can barely see it, but under the connector is the spot that the Engine Coolant Switch goes, and apparently the Coolant Switch and Coolant Sensor are 2 different things.
20210918_131625.jpg
 

muwaha

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So I replaced the Thermostat, ECT, and ECS.
I also replaced the battery, It's pouring rain so I couldn't do the code scan, but the truck still doesn't want to turn over due to lack of air.
Is there anything else I can try? I even took the air intake off but the truck still not getting air.
 

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