Fast question about clutch line plastic hose

[Tedybear]

Hiya,

Just a quick one. Picked up a used clutch master and hose from the yard on Saturday and did the install yesterday. Took about 30 minutes to bleed out the air, but finally had a rock hard pedal with it going against the check valve in the fitting. The old one had a tiny bit of 'sponge' to it. Not a lot, but just a hair of an air bubble it would seem.

At any rate. The used one came out of a ranger with a 4 cyc. It does not have the insulation sleeve around the line near the fitting to the slave. I attempted to remove the one from the Explorer, and no dice.

Is this really needed? The test drive yesterday seemed somewhat promising, as it was still 'clunky' but seemed to go into 1st somewhat better then before. Reverse gear? I have to let it sit with the clutch in for several seconds before backing up. It's like the input shaft is still slightly spinning for a few seconds before it goes to a stop and I can get it into reverse without the gear grind.

The big test will be the extended drive later in the week, but the lack of that insulator is concerning me. I can probably come up with a section of water pipe insulation and wrap it up with the silver foil tape. (The same stuff we used to use to keep our sink from freezing)

And yeah...I"d love to meet the person that came up with the idea of the plastic clip and steel fingers to retain the line...and kick them in the bawhoogees. What a huge PITA!

So just need to know about that insulator. As for the clunky shifting? I'll be pulling the spring washer(s) from the shifter once it gets cooler outside. I believe part of the issue is the clamping action of the ball shift thing and the spring washers is to tight. This might be a case where a tad more slop is needed. (Typical Dorman Junk!.)


Thanks!

S-

 

[silverslug]

Cut the insulation sleeve off the old line. Then use your foil tape and wire ties to install it on the new line. Even though it is fairly close to that side of the y-pipe there is enough of an air gap that you could run without it if you had to.
Cover up the coupler with some protection too. The more debris you can keep out of the fingers the less likely you will want to kick someone in the bawhoogees next time you service the system.
How many miles on the transmission? This might help the pros here to diagnose your reverse issue.

 

[adsm08]

IIRC R isn't synchronized on that trans. When you come to a stop shift into 2nd before going to reverse. It should ease the engagement.

 

[Tedybear]

I'll give both ideas a try. It has about 240ish miles on the clock. In order to try and isolate the really poor shift quality I needed to remove the master from the equation. I feel pretty confident no more air in the system. Of course that's what I thought last time...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G530A using Tapatalk

 

[adsm08]

I don't bleed those things on the vehicle.

If I get a new master and line I hook it up and bleed the piss out of it upside down before I ever install it.

If sticking it in 2nd helps it wasn't the input shaft causing the problem, its everything else is still spinning and putting it in gear stops it. One shop I used to work at had a old (like 81) F350 two truck as the shop truck and it had an old old T-series trans. That was the only way to get it in reverse.

 

[Denisefwd93]

someone once told me reverse of most transmissions are not synced? (spnell ck that) and that is why the driver always needs to shift from a fwd gear into reverse.

TB.. seems like you are going to the ends of the earth to not pull the trans and replace the slave cyl. I feel the pain.. or have felt it, know it. wish it not on you.... wish they made a "kit" to put it outside the trans like the old trucks with levers and links

 

[Tedybear]

someone once told me reverse of most transmissions are not synced? (spnell ck that) and that is why the driver always needs to shift from a fwd gear into reverse.

TB.. seems like you are going to the ends of the earth to not pull the trans and replace the slave cyl. I feel the pain.. or have felt it, know it. wish it not on you.... wish they made a "kit" to put it outside the trans like the old trucks with levers and links

I'd love to just see a 'kit' that solved that stupid white plastic release clip that always seems to fall apart LOL. (The 'upgraded' slave doesn't count....and a lot of reviews didn't seem to nice about it)

The one thing I did pick up from the Performance Clutch site and youtube videos was to stretch the line up to the master. They 'weighed' down the line to the slave to remove the loopyloop and make it a fairly straight shot to the master, flip that master around so the bottom is UP, so the air bubbles could be bleed out. I did that for about 30 minutes on the salvage one and the line. Proof of concept before I shell out mega bucks on clutch, slave and new master. It finally got to the point the master rod was 'rock hard' when I attempted to press it.

When I finally got that line off the slave with the existing master cylinder that was installed and all that was on the master was the line and check valve... I pressed the clutch pedal. It went down about 1/8"...and then I could press it down with a bit of a bounce about another 1/8" bounce bounce.....It took a bit of pressing to get it to 'flex/bounce'... But that's what I expect if there was a bit of air in the system.

The one I installed after bleeding it and bleeding it....... Once clipped into place and just there without on the slave. I pressed it with my foot down hard. The rod entered about 1/8"...and then a total DEAD stop. When I had the old master hanging off the back of the truck I did the bleeding trick on it.. Sure enough, got an air bubble that floated out. Might be more, but the current master cylinder seems to at least have no air.

I did finish bleeding it out with gravity for a short while, and then had the wife pump the pedal and I bleed it like I would a brake caliper. That seems to have at least gotten the air out of it.

Current plans is to transfer the heat 'sock' over...and then drive it around a bit to see if things improved. I did have it gear grind into reverse. First gear seemed to go in a lot better. So this is still up in the air.

Yes I'm trying not to have to drop the transmission. But of course, so far what I've done to figure this out hasn't cost me a lot of $. ($14 for the master/line and a couple pints of DOT-3) At least if I need to drop this? The master and line are "known good". (albeit used......) When I noted the price on the master/line I just about coughed up a lung....


Thanks again for the help! I'll continue to plug away at it. True--avoiding dropping it... But I'll see if things are improved or not.

S-