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Factory frame coating?


gw33gp

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While doing some work on my frame I realized the right main frame rail on my Ranger has a thin soft tar like coating on it and the left rail does not. I have owned the Ranger since new and don't recall adding any coating to that rail. if I did, I would certainly have done it to both sides. Did Ford apply this kind of coating to the frame? If so, it is strange they did it to only one side.

I live is SoCal so there is only very light spotty surface rust on the left frame rail, but I am considering sanding it lightly and adding a rust converter before coating with a layer of undercoat. The right side has no rust at all and I would like both sides to be the same.
 


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I believe Ford did coat the frames... and it seems to be poorly applied in most cases.

When I bought my Bronco II the previous owner had already cleaned... converted rust and applied new coatings to the entire frame and underbody. He used the entire Eastwood line of products to do it. The coating on the frame/body is as you describe thin tar-ish look and feel.

BroncoII front.jpg
 

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I have owned 3 rangers. 03', 04', and 11'. All of them are coated with a tar like substance which dries out and flakes off. They apparently dipped them completely in a pool of this tar/ coating to get 100% coverage. I bought the 04' new. Every time I would change oil, I would end up with the black tar on my arm. It was soft when it was new. I can't imagine how the assembly line workers must have loved getting it all over themselves when the trucks were being assembled.
I just finished redoing the frame completely on my 03'. It is a horrible job removing the old coating. The best way is to heat small sections with a propane torch and scrape, wire brush, and wipe off. Then finish with wax+grease remover or lacquer thinner. Perfectly clean metal underneath, rust everywhere it has flaked off. Por 15 and paint or undercoating.
 

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Seems par for the corse. Mine is more or less the same.

It doesn’t say on super well, but if you want to remove it it’s almost impossible.
 

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I took some more time to look at it. The area where I thought there was no coating with light spotty surface rust did have evidence of an extremely thin coating. That was in the left rear wheel well area. Further forward was a thicker coating like I found on the right side. Dust had built up on the sticky surface and I thought the frame was just dirty.

I must agree with everything that has been said in this thread. The frame must be dipped, resulting in the coating not being very uniform. I will attempt to get better coverage on the thin coating area I discovered.

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions for repair.
 

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If you are just recoating the frame without removing the factory coating, just hit it with some Fluid Film. Keep in mind that it will need to be reapplied about once a year. The benefit of Fluid Film is that it leaches into seams for better protection and won’t trap moisture behind it if there is a pin hole like undercoat will.
 

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If you are just recoating the frame without removing the factory coating, just hit it with some Fluid Film. Keep in mind that it will need to be reapplied about once a year. The benefit of Fluid Film is that it leaches into seams for better protection and won’t trap moisture behind it if there is a pin hole like undercoat will.
Never heard of this. Just looked it up. Frame clean-up work is in the not distant future for mine.
I'm adding this to the catalog of stuff I'm going to start collecting.
Thanks.
 

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There's all sorts of products like fluid film. Rust check is another one, real popular up here. Same idea.

I've read about this product that's more of a wax rather than goop like fluid film is. Needs to be heated to get applied. Really like the sounds of that.. the problem with the more fluid solutions are that they get washed off by wheel spray and stuff. That won't happen with whatever this waxy product is.. the only thing is that the first application of whatever this stuff is is quite a bit more expensive than fluid film.. I read around 800$.. but.. I'm betting it's absolutely worth it.
 

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Never heard of this. Just looked it up. Frame clean-up work is in the not distant future for mine.
I'm adding this to the catalog of stuff I'm going to start collecting.
Thanks.
Apparently there is two varieties. The stuff that comes in a rattle can, which is thinner and the stuff that comes in bigger containers. The container stuff is supposedly thicker but you need a spray gun, various nozzles, and an air compressor.

Since I don’t have an air compressor, I buy the rattle cans and spray everything down in the fall.
 

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There's all sorts of products like fluid film. Rust check is another one, real popular up here. Same idea.

I've read about this product that's more of a wax rather than goop like fluid film is. Needs to be heated to get applied. Really like the sounds of that.. the problem with the more fluid solutions are that they get washed off by wheel spray and stuff. That won't happen with whatever this waxy product is.. the only thing is that the first application of whatever this stuff is is quite a bit more expensive than fluid film.. I read around 800$.. but.. I'm betting it's absolutely worth it.
I'm betting the limestone gravel roads which comprise the majority of the roads I drive will eventually "wash" off anything I put on my frame :ROFLMAO:. Need more info though.
 

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I was fooling around with my truck. The bed has been removed and I noticed that a cross member had a bunch of little "nipples" almost an inch apart evenly across. I poked at one and it flaked off and it was black underneath. I thought I had rust bubbles forming, but upon further inspection, it seemed to be "por-15 like" It flakes off easily in some places and wouldn't budge in others. gonna break out the pressure washer to remove the road grime, and start coating the frame. Haven't figured out what to use yet, but I'm doing research.
 

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Xylene takes it off. Just wear very thick nitrile gloves (9mil), and some sort of respiratory protection (respirator or better).

Unless you want to experience a few hours of synthesia, liking Kanyes music, and uneven tire wear, then have at it raw dog. 😬
 

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I have owned 3 rangers. 03', 04', and 11'. All of them are coated with a tar like substance which dries out and flakes off. They apparently dipped them completely in a pool of this tar/ coating to get 100% coverage. I bought the 04' new. Every time I would change oil, I would end up with the black tar on my arm. It was soft when it was new. I can't imagine how the assembly line workers must have loved getting it all over themselves when the trucks were being assembled.
I just finished redoing the frame completely on my 03'. It is a horrible job removing the old coating. The best way is to heat small sections with a propane torch and scrape, wire brush, and wipe off. Then finish with wax+grease remover or lacquer thinner. Perfectly clean metal underneath, rust everywhere it has flaked off. Por 15 and paint or undercoating.
I don't know that much about cars, but it seems as though Ford did do a very good job painting and/or undercoating the frames on the Rangers. After 19 years of Minnesota winters, there is just rust underneath.

Sooner or later it seems as though all paints break down. That's why I sealed my first truck with clear epoxy. People have been coating boats with it for years. It is the best water barrier I know. Ths stuff I recommended (Sinnmast from Polygem) is not like JB Weld or hardware store epoxies. It pours or flows more like varnish or water, but it does not have liquid solvents which might break down the original paint job. You can apply it with a brush or a roller. So it is also possible to "paint" the rust right in. Slow set epoxy will soak into the rust and stop the rust action completely. You can add pigment too.

Granted, the idea is a little unorthodox. I called Polygem because I used their products for other applications for many years. I called them first and asked them about cars. The salesman paused and said. "Sure, why not?" They normally sell this stuff in large quantities for other applications. They had not thought about cars at all. It turned out, the salesman was right. I will be treating my Ranger this way this summer. Of course, if you are reading about this idea for the first time, I would not just trust a perfect stranger like me either.
 

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