F-150 master cylinder swap

[cammeddrz]

Once again, cammeddrz is correct. If I had only listned to him in the first place.....

i had to clear out my signature....i was having trouble fitting all the quotes from people saying that

just playing. i'm glad i could be of help. and it took me weeks, and lots of $$ unecesarrily replacing parts to solve this problem.

 

[ThatGuy]

Same here. Oh well. Something as simple as swapping the lines. I just hooked it up the way it was from the factory. I thought front-back and back-front was the norm?

 

[cammeddrz]

Same here. Oh well. Something as simple as swapping the lines. I just hooked it up the way it was from the factory. I thought front-back and back-front was the norm?

i know right? i thought the exact same thing. but it was one of those curve-balls that the gods of modifying trucks throws us

i suspect that same logic will get each and every person who tries this swap. unless they are warned ahead of time

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

It's been a long time since I did any brake master swaps but I've always used the biggest reservoir for the front brakes. I never noticed the back to front thing till you mentioned it.
Thanks for the info,
Richard

 

[Toofarnorth]

Same here. Oh well. Something as simple as swapping the lines. I just hooked it up the way it was from the factory. I thought front-back and back-front was the norm?

Ok, you got it fixed but.... what caused the original problem? Were the lines backward on your original master?

 

[ThatGuy]

Originally, no.
The TTB and stock brake setup was front-rear & rear-front. So that's the way i hooked it back up. When I swapped the F-150 master on, I hooked it up front-rear & rear-front.

Evidently that's not the way to do it. Front-front & rear-rear is the way it is now and I have zero problems.

 

[Toofarnorth]

That's what I figured. So you're not sure what caused the problem in the beginning.

 

[ThatGuy]

The only "problem" came when I switched axles. I hooked the brakes back up in the factory configuration and ended up with the spongy pedal. Now that I've swapped the master I hooked it up f-f & r-r and got great brakes.

 

[rkneeshaw]

So basically the stock master cylinder WAS the problem initially, and once he hooked up the new master correctly, the issue was fixed

 

[cammeddrz]

look my full-width axles suddenly gave me the same problem as soon as i hooked them up too. so i went through the same though process "gee i guess this master-cylinder is too small...." so i went from the stock 7/8" piston to the f-350 1 1/8" with the exact same feeling as the stocker. not one bit different.

it seems from my experience + your experience i would say that the axles themselves need to be hooked up backwards. and the stock master would have likely worked fine. but no point in going back and trying it now

 

[larryo]

it was a metal-lid one i think i just got it for the same year so 1988.....its been a while i do know that it is a 1 1/8" piston

I have a question I have a 87 be I as well have done the mustang kit to my 7.5 rear end so running disc disc and have nothing for breaking power what should a do ...is it as easy as the 88f350 master cylinder being replaced or do I need to by something else as well I have also bypassed the stupid rabs system

 

[bobbywalter]

even in 2010....i would probably use an explorer disk disk setup....or a hydroboost from a chevy van.

 

[SenorNoob]

I know lots of people have problems. Guess I was just lucky. My master cylinder is stock for 88 4wd. Front has a Dana 35 with dual pistons, and the rear is Explorer. Assuming I bleed the brakes correctly, I can stop faster than I like most of the time.