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Engine rebuild time crunch


The_Epsicle

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I drive a 1994 Ford Ranger 4.0 with 220,000 miles. The engine needs a rebuild, it leaks oil from the pan and rear main seal, it's also burning oil, and has bad lifter tick. I have the money and I was going to replace the gaskets, oil pump, lifters, camshaft, piston rings, and everything to do with the valves. I can't start the project until the 24th and after that I have 25 days until I have to move back to school. I know that's pushing it but do you guys think thats enough time to even attempt it? Keep in mind I don't have work obligations (trying to find a way to phrase that without sounding like an unemployed slob, there's just no work right now) so I can dedicate 100% of my time to this project.
 


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adsm08

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Figure a day and a half to rip it out and down. Then a week to send it to a machine shop for check, deck, bore, and cam bearings. Should have the crank checked too. Then you need to order rings and bearings. Figure a few days to get them back, then a day and a half, maybe two to put the engine back together and get it in.

Also, don't know how much money is an issue, but the best price I found on lifters was $25/piece, so $300 just in lifters.
 

RonD

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Also tools.

And a truck...............
You can pick up a rental engine hoist in your truck, but you need to take it back and you won't have a truck at that time...........and you also need to take engine to the shop..........

Hopefully you have a friend that can help you out, both with the work and with a truck :)

Engine stands are not expensive, but look on craigslist or other buy/sell sites for a used one, people get them for the same type of thing you are doing and then sell them when done.

You may not want to take block to a shop, up to you, heads do need to go to get surfaced and pressure tested.
If there are grooves in cylinders then I would take block in.
Don't get parts until you are ready to assemble, because if you need oversize you won't know until then.

You can rent Ring compressor and Valve spring compressor
You should have a torque wrench but can rent them

I have a good local muffler shop, I take my vehicle in and tell them what I am doing, i.e. pulling heads or engine.
They will then loosen exhaust manifold bolts, replace any that break or head strips, then snug them back down
Also exhaust pipe bolt/nuts loosen and snug back, replacing any that need it.
Most I ever paid is $60, including parts

They have all the tools and knowledge to get out stuck or broken bolts, takes them under 1/2 hour most times.
A stuck exhaust bolt/nut can take you hours to get out and a few trip to the parts store, lol.
 
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The_Epsicle

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Figure a day and a half to rip it out and down. Then a week to send it to a machine shop for check, deck, bore, and cam bearings. Should have the crank checked too. Then you need to order rings and bearings. Figure a few days to get them back, then a day and a half, maybe two to put the engine back together and get it in.

Also, don't know how much money is an issue, but the best price I found on lifters was $25/piece, so $300 just in lifters.
Shoot, forgot about machining. Thanks for the quick reply. I've been on the fence about whether or not to replace the camshaft and I'm leaning towards not replacing it or the lifters as I think the issue lies more with oil pressure and not with defective parts. I've budgeted all the parts and money is not an issue. Perhaps a re-ring, bearing, and gasket replacement instead of an all out rebuild is more in order?
 

The_Epsicle

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My credo
All hail the mighty ziptie!
Also tools.

And a truck...............
You can pick up a rental engine hoist in your truck, but you need to take it back and you won't have a truck at that time...........and you also need to take engine to the shop..........

Hopefully you have a friend that can help you out, both with the work and with a truck :)

Engine stands are not expensive, but look on craigslist or other buy/sell sites for a used one, people get them for the same type of thing you are doing and then sell them when done.

You may not want to take block to a shop, up to you, heads do need to go to get surfaced and pressure tested.
If there are grooves in cylinders then I would take block in.
Don't get parts until you are ready to assemble, because if you need oversize you won't know until then.

You can rent Ring compressor and Valve spring compressor
You should have a torque wrench but can rent them

I have a good local muffler shop, I take my vehicle in and tell them what I am doing, i.e. pulling heads or engine.
They will then loosen exhaust manifold bolts, replace any that break or head strips, then snug them back down
Also exhaust pipe bolt/nuts loosen and snug back, replacing any that need it.
Most I ever paid is $60, including parts

They have all the tools and knowledge to get out stuck or broken bolts, takes them under 1/2 hour most times.
A stuck exhaust bolt/nut can take you hours to get out and a few trip to the parts store, lol.
I personally own an engine hoist, engine stand, and torque wrenches (in lbs. and ft lbs.). I'll have to check to see if my local shop can surface my heads, I was planning on not taking the block to a shop. I do have a friend who can assist me.
 

The_Epsicle

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Perhaps it would be in my best interest to simply replace the oil pan gasket, rear main seal, and the oil pump. That should help me with oil pressure and I can re-ring the engine when I have more time.
 

RonD

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Then you are looking at a long-weekend project :)

Maybe 4 days

If you do a compression test before pulling the engine that would give a little better idea of how far to dig in.
And no reason to pull the heads unless you are changing the rings/pistons.
Change the valve guide seals, you can do that without pulling the heads.
 

AllanD

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On a 4.0 engine the lobes and/or lifters are unlikely to cause a "lifter tick"

The usual cause of valvetrain noise on a 4.0 is worn/galled pushrod sockets in the underside of the shaft mounted rockers.
 

The_Epsicle

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Then you are looking at a long-weekend project :)

Maybe 4 days

If you do a compression test before pulling the engine that would give a little better idea of how far to dig in.
And no reason to pull the heads unless you are changing the rings/pistons.
Change the valve guide seals, you can do that without pulling the heads.
Cool, sounds like a game plan. I might do the valves once the engine is back in the truck just to make sure I have enough time.

On a 4.0 engine the lobes and/or lifters are unlikely to cause a "lifter tick"

The usual cause of valvetrain noise on a 4.0 is worn/galled pushrod sockets in the underside of the shaft mounted rockers.
Thanks for the response. That was my first thought too, but I replaced my pushrods and rocker arms when I first noticed the noise. It certainly helped a lot, it doesn't sound like a fully automatic sewing machine anymore, but there is still a tick at low idles, that's why my mind went to lifters but as I've talked with you all I've realized there are still a few culprits to track down.


Thank you adsm08, RonD, and AllanD for spitballing with me! I think my gameplan is to pull the engine and replace the rear main seal, oil pan gasket, and oil pump. I'll move on to valvetrain stuff once that's all done and the engine is back in the vehicle. I figure she'll still burn oil, but at least she won't be leaking it.
 

hank857

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I am not sure about these particular engines, but the kologne engine I encountered overseas got their oil pressure off the cam. Maybe someone can help on this. I had intermitent oil pressure some times good sometime low but still within limits. Anyhow had an independent shop take it in as I thought I had a leaking rear main. Turns out I didn't, valley and valve covers leaked and looked like it was the rear main. they R&R'd the leaky gaskets and the rear main since I had bought it anyhow and they also said the pan gasket was leaking. Told them to replace it so they lifted the engine enough to get an off. since the pan was off had them install new oil pump (300000+on the vehicle). Still have the intermittent oil pressure issue. Just ordered elec pressure and water temp from glowshift so can monitor better, I dont burn/use any oil now.
 


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