Cheeko
New Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2020
- Messages
- 13
- Reaction score
- 4
- Points
- 3
- Location
- Texas
- Vehicle Year
- 1999
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger
- Engine Type
- 4.0 V6
- Transmission
- Manual
- 2WD / 4WD
- 4WD
- Total Lift
- 2
Happy new year!
I have a problem and wanted to ping TRS before proceeding further.
Bottom line: Rebuilt my 1999 4.0 OHV engine, fired it up the first time and it ran smooth as silk. Now it's not running at all. Think I narrowed it down to timing...maybe the gas is old and went bad?
Now it's story time. First time she ran after the rebuild I had her idling to operating temperature. When the engine got hot the A/C heater valve blew, sending coolant and (for some reason, maybe unrelated?) power steering fluid everywhere. Replaced the valve and fluids a week later, and now its got a rough idle. At that point I checked for spark at the ignition coils and plugs. Here's where I found one plug that was wet, white smoke billowing from the exhaust, and the coolant empty.
Pulled the engine and ran a leak down test, ultimately found out that the passenger side head was warped. Replaced engine head and now have compression on all six cylinders. Since the battery drained after a few days sitting, I also tested all the wires by disassembling, checking for continuity and resistance, and rebuilding both harnesses under the hood. After that, I slam-dunked the engine back in. Still no joy starting back up. I even disassembled the cabin to visually inspect wiring, and checked for continuity/ohms there. Checked vacuum, rebuilt that with new parts. Fuel pressure was low, so I replaced the pump, filter, and all the old nasty and rotten hoses. Got her started, but would only idle. This morning, she went back to her old ways. So here I am, having checked fuel, electrical, and compression. At this point I think its narrowed down to the timing. The ignition wires are set up according to what Haynes said.
I'm at the end of my rope here, if this doesn't work I'll end up selling the thing despite putting two years' work into it. Here's a list of all the stuff I replaced...thank God for Rock Auto.
Unrelated - Rebuilt transmission, front diff, axles, shocks, tires, etc.
Engine rebuild:
(I'm bad at remembering exact names) Brand new MAF, crankshaft sensor, recirculation valve, idle valve, throttle position sensor, EGR valve & switch, O2 sensors.
Brand new rod bearings, cam bearings, piston rings, lifters, valves, valve springs, rocker arms, rods, passenger side head, spark plugs, ignition wiring, ignition coils, air filter, temperature sensor, air temp sensor, water pump, chain, chain guide, and sprockets, oil pump, oil pump shaft.
Things I cheaped out on during the rebuild:
- Two of the pistons were pock-marked at the top, and after inspecting for cracks/other damage determined that they were fine after filing down any high spots. Figured it might have been from the bad bearings that I replaced.
- The drivers side head. I have good compression on all cylinders on that side. The valves, seals, rocker arms/rods all new.
If you made it this far, thank you so much for reading, and any advice would be appreciated. I really don't want to have to go through the hassle of breaking the engine down to check the timing marks.
I have a problem and wanted to ping TRS before proceeding further.
Bottom line: Rebuilt my 1999 4.0 OHV engine, fired it up the first time and it ran smooth as silk. Now it's not running at all. Think I narrowed it down to timing...maybe the gas is old and went bad?
Now it's story time. First time she ran after the rebuild I had her idling to operating temperature. When the engine got hot the A/C heater valve blew, sending coolant and (for some reason, maybe unrelated?) power steering fluid everywhere. Replaced the valve and fluids a week later, and now its got a rough idle. At that point I checked for spark at the ignition coils and plugs. Here's where I found one plug that was wet, white smoke billowing from the exhaust, and the coolant empty.
Pulled the engine and ran a leak down test, ultimately found out that the passenger side head was warped. Replaced engine head and now have compression on all six cylinders. Since the battery drained after a few days sitting, I also tested all the wires by disassembling, checking for continuity and resistance, and rebuilding both harnesses under the hood. After that, I slam-dunked the engine back in. Still no joy starting back up. I even disassembled the cabin to visually inspect wiring, and checked for continuity/ohms there. Checked vacuum, rebuilt that with new parts. Fuel pressure was low, so I replaced the pump, filter, and all the old nasty and rotten hoses. Got her started, but would only idle. This morning, she went back to her old ways. So here I am, having checked fuel, electrical, and compression. At this point I think its narrowed down to the timing. The ignition wires are set up according to what Haynes said.
I'm at the end of my rope here, if this doesn't work I'll end up selling the thing despite putting two years' work into it. Here's a list of all the stuff I replaced...thank God for Rock Auto.
Unrelated - Rebuilt transmission, front diff, axles, shocks, tires, etc.
Engine rebuild:
(I'm bad at remembering exact names) Brand new MAF, crankshaft sensor, recirculation valve, idle valve, throttle position sensor, EGR valve & switch, O2 sensors.
Brand new rod bearings, cam bearings, piston rings, lifters, valves, valve springs, rocker arms, rods, passenger side head, spark plugs, ignition wiring, ignition coils, air filter, temperature sensor, air temp sensor, water pump, chain, chain guide, and sprockets, oil pump, oil pump shaft.
Things I cheaped out on during the rebuild:
- Two of the pistons were pock-marked at the top, and after inspecting for cracks/other damage determined that they were fine after filing down any high spots. Figured it might have been from the bad bearings that I replaced.
- The drivers side head. I have good compression on all cylinders on that side. The valves, seals, rocker arms/rods all new.
If you made it this far, thank you so much for reading, and any advice would be appreciated. I really don't want to have to go through the hassle of breaking the engine down to check the timing marks.