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Engine Conversion to get more tow power

muwaha

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Hey All,

I am not sure if this is the right spot, and my apologies if it's not.
I have a 1991 Ford Ranger Supercab (XLT) V6 3.0, and a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0 OHV.

If the engine decides to go in them, I want to do a swap with something that has more power to tow along with durability.
I'm ignorant when it comes to this stuff, but I'm sure I'll need to replace the engine and transmission, though I'm not sure about the rear axle (any info on that would be greatly appreciated as well).

With me wanting durability and more tow power, would a V8 be my best bet? another V6? or something else?
 


Shran

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Your best bet for legally towing more and keeping it alive longer is a bigger truck. A V8 swap or whatever could certainly pull better and be more durable but you still cannot legally tow or haul more than what you truck was originally rated for.

Personally I would be thinking about a really good transmission cooler if you have automatics and deeper (numerically highest) gears for your axle(s). 4.10 is a good ratio for towing and that is the deepest ratio available from Ford although you can get deeper aftermarket gears. Your door tag will give you an axle code which you can google to see what gears you have.
 

bobbywalter

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2WD / 4WD
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sawzall?
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33-44
My credo
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Towing more reliably starts with full floater axles...or beefy mcbeef semi float and monster brakes.

Suspension and chassis beefing to rate base to knowns...


Then address power.

You can custom title and increase your tow rating in many states. Insurance...can be difficult.
 

muwaha

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Your best bet for legally towing more and keeping it alive longer is a bigger truck. A V8 swap or whatever could certainly pull better and be more durable but you still cannot legally tow or haul more than what you truck was originally rated for.

Personally I would be thinking about a really good transmission cooler if you have automatics and deeper (numerically highest) gears for your axle(s). 4.10 is a good ratio for towing and that is the deepest ratio available from Ford although you can get deeper aftermarket gears. Your door tag will give you an axle code which you can google to see what gears you have.
Yes. Both trucks are automatic and I understand what you're saying up to the 4.10 haha.

I'll check my door tags tomorrow thank you!
 

muwaha

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Towing more reliably starts with full floater axles...or beefy mcbeef semi float and monster brakes.

Suspension and chassis beefing to rate base to knowns...


Then address power.

You can custom title and increase your tow rating in many states. Insurance...can be difficult.

I'm auto-mechanic ignorant so my apologies on not being able to understand fully what you're saying.
I know it's going to be an pain to ask you to explain what it means. I would greatly appreciate it. If you don't I understand.
I'll try to do some research and see what I can find.
 

bobbywalter

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Engine Type
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Engine Size
BIGGER
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
Stock rangers have c clip axles.

The axleshaft transmits power to move load and supports the weight of the vehicle. The diameter of the shaft and bearing surface are specific limitations.

And the rating is based primarily on this.
 

RonD

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There is a difference between the words "can" and "may"
May means allowed to
Can means able to

May is the legal towing, or combined weight(GCWR), assigned to a model when its made, by Ford in the case of Rangers
You can swap engines, transmissions, axles and even Frames, but that Legal limit, assigned by Ford, never changes as far as the law or insurance companies are concerned
If your 3.0l Ranger is allowed to tow 4,000lbs trailer
And a 4.0l Ranger is allowed to tow 5,000lbs
Even if you swap the 3.0l to a 4.0l it "may" only tow 4,000lbs Legally, its assigned "from birth" and can't be changed

Rangers "can" tow at least 500lbs more, even 1,000lbs if not real steep roads
But if there is an accident, doesn't have to be weight related, then insurance company "can" walk away, a little clause about "operating a motor vehicle in a lawful manner" they do that with drunk drivers all the time
 

pjtoledo

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what are you planning on towing?
and what terrain?
 

4x4prepper

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Supply chain issues are going to get worse, not better, imho, so I would look at a 5.0L/C-6 or AOD/NP205 combo all of which have good aftermarket support.
 

bobbywalter

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Location
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Vehicle Year
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Make / Model
FORD mostly
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
BIGGER
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
There is a difference between the words "can" and "may"
May means allowed to
Can means able to

May is the legal towing, or combined weight(GCWR), assigned to a model when its made, by Ford in the case of Rangers
You can swap engines, transmissions, axles and even Frames, but that Legal limit, assigned by Ford, never changes as far as the law or insurance companies are concerned
If your 3.0l Ranger is allowed to tow 4,000lbs trailer
And a 4.0l Ranger is allowed to tow 5,000lbs
Even if you swap the 3.0l to a 4.0l it "may" only tow 4,000lbs Legally, its assigned "from birth" and can't be changed

Rangers "can" tow at least 500lbs more, even 1,000lbs if not real steep roads
But if there is an accident, doesn't have to be weight related, then insurance company "can" walk away, a little clause about "operating a motor vehicle in a lawful manner" they do that with drunk drivers all the time

Hence custom title. There are 15 or so states that you can't work with....easily anyway.

It's the insurance that is hard to deal with.
 

don4331

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The diameter of the shaft and bearing surface are specific limitations.

And the rating is based primarily on this.
Not sure I'm buying what you're selling here. :) Hell, my F-150 with 31 spline/1.62" bearing is rated for almost double GCWR what the Ranger is 28 splines/1.40" bearing so there's more to limit than just the axles.

I understand what you're talking about, but Ranger doesn't need 3/4 ton full floating rear axles to be durable. If OP really feels the need, some aftermarket 1541 shafts would be 25-30% stronger than the OEM 1050 steel shafts. And he won't be damaging them if he sticks to Ford's limits on towing.

@muwaha : Are your trucks 4WD or not? Are you towing boat from Hazel Green to Guntersville? Or travel trailer through Tennessee mountains?

Transmission cooler and shift kit go a long ways to making an automatic last longer. And remember to lock out overdrive when towing.

A 5.0 has ~double the torque of 4.0. That goes a long ways to making towing feel more comfortable. Your '00 is the ideal year for Explorer 5.0 swap, the 4R70W auto from Explorer is reasonably reliable transmission - again keep it shifting crisp and keep oil cool.

And make sure your trailer has brakes. Ranger brakes were suspect new (They faded on 70mph stop with empty truck during the magazine testing back in the day).
 

bobbywalter

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Location
woodhaven mi
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
FORD mostly
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
BIGGER
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
I am not selling anything. It is what is.

Axle rating is axle rating... Floaters are better and much safer when doing heavy work. But they bring complication and weight penalties. Do you need them....no.


My current half ton is rated to 14 k and it's not a full float.

The package is braking system too....

What happens when you upgrade to floaters is you automatically are solving the rating issue on the stock axle....the brakes.

Brakes are the most important thing when you want to tow more.
 
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