Electrical problems.

[ThePaladinJim]

I don't know exactly what forum thread to use so if this isn't the right one let me know, thank you.

So I have an '89 Ranger 4x4 with the 2.9L. Just got the thing a few weeks ago. One day I heard a clicking noise from the stereo/head unit area. Aftermarket head unit. Turned ignition off and back on and it went away. Fast forward I drove about 250 miles around town and everything.

Well last nigh I was fueling up and I heard the clicking again so I tried turning ignition off and on again but it didn't work. Tried again, nothing. On my third try I heard a click and all power is gone, lights, dash, head unit, nothing has power. Checked all the fuses. All good. Pulled out the head unit and it didnt look too bad behind it. Put it back, nothing. Waited 5-10 minutes, buddy shows up to pick me up. Try to show him and all the power works, lights dash stereo, but when I try to turn it over, not enough power. Check battery, got 12.37 volts.

Buddy said it might be alternator "arcing" becuase it's bad or shorting, thats the "clicking" I head from stereo area. so that's where I am right now, but before I spend money on a new alternator, was wondering what you guys would think.

Thank you, sorry for the long post, but idk what to do. Any help greatly appreciated.

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Engine should start if battery has 12.3 to 12.8 volts

Maybe on the alternator being the problem, but test FIRST and only THEN buy new parts

Clean battery terminals and cable ends, Negative battery cable is as important as Positive so BOTH need to be clean

Follow positive cable to the Starter Relay(solenoid) Post, with positive cable UNHOOKED from battery, remove the nut on starter relay post
Clean ALL the wire ends on that post, this post passes ALL the power in the whole truck, this is the battery's connection to the truck AND the alternators connection to the truck.
Very very Important Post, all wires here must be clean and corrosion free or you will get what you described, no lights no nothing

Follow the negative battery cable(s), larger one should run to engine block or starter motor bolt, it needs to have a good clean connection, this the Ground for most systems.
If there is a smaller wire on negative battery terminal as well follow it and make sure it has a good clean bare metal connection, this is for inner fender relays and Head light grounds.

After above wires are checked and cleaned, then hooked back up:
Put volt meter's black probe on alternators metal case, the ground, used in all the following tests

On the back of the alternator, the the B+ terminal, stud and nut, like a post, touch Red probe there, should see Battery voltage, i.e. 12.37
If not then fuse or fusible link is blown

Unplug the 3 wire connector on alternator
Test Yellow/white stripe wire, should see battery voltage
If not fuse or fusible link is blown

On same 3 wire connector, test Light Green/red stripe wire, should be 0 volts
Turn on the Key
Re-test green wire, should now have battery voltage(this wire is the ON/OFF switch for alternator)

Inspect white jumper wire and make sure it is not frayed or otherwise damaged, unplug it and plug it back in on its single terminal

Reconnect 3 wire connector to alternator

Start engine
Test battery voltage with engine running
Should now be 14.3 to 14.9volts, above 14 volts
If not and all 3 wires tested as OK, then alternator is bad, no doubt, not a guess

After engine has been running for 5-10minutes don't shut it off, leave it idling and re-test battery voltage, should now be at 13.5 to 13.8volts
Under 14volts, if it stays above 14volts then it will "cook" the battery, so voltage regulator inside alternator is most likely bad.

The battery is ONLY USED to start the engine
Once engine is running the alternator provides ALL THE VOLTAGE, at minimum of 13.5volts

When you start the engine the battery is drained by starter motor, so alternator/voltage regulator will give it a Fast Charge, above 14volts for up to 10minutes, then it will drop voltage down to under 14volts so battery won't be damaged.
If voltage stays high battery is already damaged(can't hold a charge) or will be soon




All electricity, AC or DC, works as a circuit(circle), amps are what pass around that "circle" powering devices
IF........a connection in the circle can only pass 2 amps then that circuit(circle) is now limited to 2amps
So positive wire may be fine to pass 10 amps, but if negative wire is corroded or damaged and can only pass 2 amps, then thats all the power the device gets.

Starter motor needs 60amps, so BOTH Positive and Negative wires need the ability to pass 60amps
If one is corroded then it will HEAT UP quickly and drop to 0 Amps, and you lose power every where
You need to find out where that happened in your electrical system

 

[ThePaladinJim]

First off, thank you for the great information. Super awesome to have the help.

Secondly, sorry for the late response, it's been a crazy busy past few days.

I found the problem, it was me. So I had the same thing happen again this morning, no power, nothing. I realized I hadn't pushed in the clutch to start it. Apparently it has a fail safe and you have to disconnect the battery for it to reset the sensor. Idk if that's the way its supposed to but I tested it a few times and it works every time.

Thank you again for the info. My connects definitely needed some love and it's good for future reference.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

First off, thank you for the great information. Super awesome to have the help.

Secondly, sorry for the late response, it's been a crazy busy past few days.

I found the problem, it was me. So I had the same thing happen again this morning, no power, nothing. I realized I hadn't pushed in the clutch to start it. Apparently it has a fail safe and you have to disconnect the battery for it to reset the sensor. Idk if that's the way its supposed to but I tested it a few times and it works every time.

Thank you again for the info. My connects definitely needed some love and it's good for future reference.

There is a clutch safety switch. But it wont create the problems you describe. All it does is keep the starter from turning...and theres no "reset" to it, besides putting the clutch down.

 

[ThePaladinJim]

There is a clutch safety switch. But it wont create the problems you describe. All it does is keep the starter from turning...and theres no "reset" to it, besides putting the clutch down.

Then idk, if I don't press clutch and try to turn it over, then until I disconnect battery I will get no light power, no dash power and cant start it. I disconnect and reconnect the battery, and everything works again. Any ideas? I thought maybe the safety that keeps it from starting is getting stuck?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Everything will still work on the dash no matter what the clutch pedal is doing.

Battery connection issue?

 

[ThePaladinJim]

Everything will still work on the dash no matter what the clutch pedal is doing.

Battery connection issue?

I don't have any issues until I try to start it without pressing clutch, then until I disconnect and reconnect the battery, nothing electrical works except cab light. I used it for 3 days driving around town and everything, no problems.

Can I post a video of it here?

 

[ThePaladinJim]

Everything will still work on the dash no matter what the clutch pedal is doing.

Battery connection issue?

Okay, so I tested it 3 times and 2 times it worked fine, didnt press clutch, no start, but no loss of power. 1 time it had the problem I'm describing, did battery thing and it fired right up. Maybe it has nothing to do with clutch. Idk.

I cleaned the terminals, they were not too bad. But I still had the problem.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

It might be something with the starter relay on the PS fender. It might even be a bad cable.

 

[ThePaladinJim]

It might be something with the starter relay on the PS fender. It might even be a bad cable.

Okay I'll check it out, thanks

 

[rusty ol ranger]

It aint got some sort of weird aftermarket anti theft on it does it?

Them things can cause all sorts of goofy issues as they age.

 

[txgocartB3000#2]

Check your clutch cable. Ground will seek any path it can.

System was using your cable engaging as the path.

Ray

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Check your clutch cable. Ground will seek any path it can.

System was using your cable engaging as the path.

Ray

AFAIK RBV's have always only had hydraulic clutches.

 

[txgocartB3000#2]

Your right but something is helping to complete the circuit when the clutch was depressed.

Whatever it was has had current flowing through it.

Might be damaged or not. Inspection would be in order.

Ray