Electric....???

[ericbphoto]

Those green cables will never give you a good connection. Replace them.

 

[Fryedbm]

Those green cables will meter give you a good connection. Replace them.

Ty

 

[Fryedbm]

Change the cables
What engine?
Battery cables are engine and year specific

3.0

 

[Fryedbm]

Change the cables
What engine?
Battery cables are engine and year specific

I have the old out. Headed to get new ones.

 

[Fryedbm]

Those green cables will never give you a good connection. Replace them.

Going to get new ones now. Old are out

 

[Fryedbm]

Manual trans is an M5OD-R1, just FYI
Easy shifting engine off, but hard shifting engine on means your hydraulic clutch system may have air in it and needs to be bled
There is a clutch fluid reservoir in the engine bay on the firewall, pull off the cap and pull out the "air cup" inside, look at fluid level, add fluid as needed
Google: Ford ranger clutch bleed


Parts stores can NOT test batteries or alternators, just FYI, they "may" test them but 50/50 chance of them being correct

Buy a Volt meter, under $20, worth its weight in gold
Test battery engine and key OFF
Select DC Volts on meter, and touch probes to battery posts, Red positive, black negative
12.8volt is a new battery
12.5v is a 3 year old battery
12.3v is a 5/6 year old battery and time to shop for battery sales

12.2v or lower is dying battery

Once you have YOUR battery voltage REMEMBER IT, exactly
Now with Red volt meter probe on battery positive, put black meter probe on alternators metal case, should show "battery volts" exactly
If not then you have a bad negative battery cable, clean or replace

With black probe still on alternators metal case move the red probe to the "B+" terminal on the back of alternator, the stud/nut terminal, should see battery voltage exactly, if not then blown MEGA fuse or corroded terminals

Unplug the 3 wire connector on the back of the alternator
Black still on alternator case
Red now on Yellow/white wire on 3 wire connector, should see battery volts exactly, if not then blown ALT SYS FUSE in engine fuse box, 30amp

Then test light green/red wire on 3 wire connector, should see 0 volts
Turn key on
Re-test light green wire, should now see battery volts, can be 0.3 less

And that's it, key off plug 3 wire connector back in
Look at the white jumper wire on 3 wire connector and make sure its not fray or disconnected

Start engine
Re-test battery
14.2-14.8volts is expected, if under 13volts then alternator is bad, period, if above 3 wire tested OK that is

Let engine idle for 5min
Retest battery voltage, should now be 13.5 to 13.9volts, under 14volts, voltage regulator is OK

Ok. Everything checked out until the start engine and test battery. It was 12.1 so go buy alternator I guess. Thank you for your priceless help RonD!!!!

 

[RonD]

Good work, and good testing

 

[Fryedbm]

It fixed the battery light.!!!! Ty Ron!!! Now I needa figure out the hard shifting. You are amazing I appreciate you so much!!!!!

 

[RonD]

Good stuff
And thank you

 

[Fryedbm]

This did not fix the clutch,like you thought. I googled how to bleed and found several methods. Do you have a link to the preferred way you could send? Also ......how much fluid should come out when I disconnect the line goin to the transmission. Slave cylinder I think. Not sure

 

[RonD]

The electrical issues had nothing to do with the clutch issue, not sure where you got that from

You need to get a helper to push down on clutch pedal while you are under the vehicle to open and close bleeder valve
Same as bleeding the brakes
You open the bleeder valve, then your helper pushes pedal down slowly until its down at the floor, they HOLD IT DOWN ALL THE WAY, then you tighten bleeder valve, and only then do they release the pedal so it comes back up
Repeat until no air bubbles come out
Have a pan/tray on the ground to collect the fluid as it squirts out of bleeder valve

You need to MAKE SURE the reservoir is filled BEFORE starting this bleeding, or you will just suck in more air

If you disconnect the line from the clutch master to the slave at the bellhousing NO FLUID should come out, there is a valve inside the line that closes when line is disconnected
When it is disconnected clutch pedal should not move, should be stuck at the top and can not be pushed down at all
If you can push it down then master is bad

 

[Fryedbm]

The electrical issues had nothing to do with the clutch issue, not sure where you got that from

You need to get a helper to push down on clutch pedal while you are under the vehicle to open and close bleeder valve
Same as bleeding the brakes
You open the bleeder valve, then your helper pushes pedal down slowly until its down at the floor, they HOLD IT DOWN ALL THE WAY, then you tighten bleeder valve, and only then do they release the pedal so it comes back up
Repeat until no air bubbles come out
Have a pan/tray on the ground to collect the fluid as it squirts out of bleeder valve

You need to MAKE SURE the reservoir is filled BEFORE starting this bleeding, or you will just suck in more air

If you disconnect the line from the clutch master to the slave at the bellhousing NO FLUID should come out, there is a valve inside the line that closes when line is disconnected
When it is disconnected clutch pedal should not move, should be stuck at the top and can not be pushed down at all
If you can push it down then master is bad

Ugh. I open the bleeder and nothing. I'm so frustrated with this!! What do I do?

 

[RonD]

The line/hose from Master needs to be hooked up to the slave(transmission)

Take the cap off the reservoir and pull out the black "air cup" if its still in there
There should be fluid under the "air cup" if not add some, dot3 brake fluid
Open the bleeder and fluid should drip out or air will come out and then fluid, this is called Gravity bleeding, fluid in reservoir is running downhill thru master to slave and then out of the bleeder valve

 

[Fryedbm]

The line/hose from Master needs to be hooked up to the slave(transmission)

Take the cap off the reservoir and pull out the black "air cup" if its still in there
There should be fluid under the "air cup" if not add some, dot3 brake fluid
Open the bleeder and fluid should drip out or air will come out and then fluid, this is called Gravity bleeding, fluid in reservoir is running downhill thru master to slave and then out of the bleeder valve

Ron you came through again buddy. It would not gravity bleed so I just started working the clutch. Purged all the old fluid til it ran clean. Kept reservoir full......SHE SHIFTS!!!!
I thank you so much. You saved me so much money and taught me! I wish I could do something for you.

 

[RonD]

Good work

Thanks for the thanks, and the updates on THE FIXES, it will help someone else down the road